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Bookshelf hanging on wall

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  • Danny30 said:

    That's complete overkill, but that is the idea, yes. Any flat steel bracket will do - try and get one 15mm or so wide so it'll fit neatly on the backs of the side panels on both units, spanning over them and neatly secured with screws.

    That new base unit - the Brimnes - is only 400-odd mm deep, so it will be more unstable once it has a bookcase on top, so a tethering bracket of some sort at the top is pretty essential to stop it all falling forwards. It shouldn't, but it would be silly to take the risk (eg if you have kids round).

    As before, tho', the vast majority of the loaded weight will be taken by the unit sides, so straight down on to the floor. Almost certainly it'll work as you hope.

    If you find that the centre of the bookcase is pressing down and deflecting, this will likely show itself by the gap between the base unit's doors and top closing. In this case, you'll need to add some sort of reinforcement, such as a timber fitted between the sides, and screwed to the underside of the top. But I really don't see that happening.
  • Danny30
    Danny30 Posts: 499 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Danny30 said:

    That's complete overkill, but that is the idea, yes. Any flat steel bracket will do - try and get one 15mm or so wide so it'll fit neatly on the backs of the side panels on both units, spanning over them and neatly secured with screws.

    That new base unit - the Brimnes - is only 400-odd mm deep, so it will be more unstable once it has a bookcase on top, so a tethering bracket of some sort at the top is pretty essential to stop it all falling forwards. It shouldn't, but it would be silly to take the risk (eg if you have kids round).

    As before, tho', the vast majority of the loaded weight will be taken by the unit sides, so straight down on to the floor. Almost certainly it'll work as you hope.

    If you find that the centre of the bookcase is pressing down and deflecting, this will likely show itself by the gap between the base unit's doors and top closing. In this case, you'll need to add some sort of reinforcement, such as a timber fitted between the sides, and screwed to the underside of the top. But I really don't see that happening.
    Thank you very much. Please excuse my ignorance but how would I secure the brackets that you provided on the link above from bookshelf to the wall through the side panels?
    Wouldn't the large sides of the panels get in the way for me to be able to screw them into the wall? 
  • Danny30 said:
    Thank you very much. Please excuse my ignorance but how would I secure the brackets that you provided on the link above from bookshelf to the wall through the side panels?
    Wouldn't the large sides of the panels get in the way for me to be able to screw them into the wall? 
    Two different brackets - two different issues.

    The straight ones are for connecting the bookcase to the base unit. Assemble them both, chuck Billy on top, push it back until the backs of the two units are inline/flush, and then look at them from the back. The back edges of Billy's side panels will hopefully line up with the back edges of Thingie's ditto. You now fit these brackets - vertically - across them both, so half comes up Billy's side and half down over Thingie's. Screw 'em. Yes?

    You have now joined Billy to Thingie at their backs. If you now pull forwards on Billy, it won't tip. If you pull hard on Billy, it'll pull Thingie over with it too. Yes? If you push sideways on Billy, it might move a fraction, but you should be able to push it off Thingie. So, these brackets are doing a good thing.

    If you push back on Billy, then Billy will lift off at the front and you'll bend the brackets - so stop that now. But no-one will do that, and the wall will be there to prevent it anyways.

    Now, if Thingy had enough depth - like the previous base unit - it would all stand up nicely and also be stable enough - very little chance of it all toppling forwards. However, Thingie is only 400-odd mm deep, and with Billy on top it's also higher than expected. This will quite likely make it unstable - tho' really only if folk are silly. So, a different bracket - a tether - should really be fitted at the very TOP of Billy to secure it to the wall. This is purely to stop it all falling forwards.
  • Danny30
    Danny30 Posts: 499 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 14 February 2021 at 8:34PM
    Danny30 said:
    Thank you very much. Please excuse my ignorance but how would I secure the brackets that you provided on the link above from bookshelf to the wall through the side panels?
    Wouldn't the large sides of the panels get in the way for me to be able to screw them into the wall? 
    Two different brackets - two different issues.

    The straight ones are for connecting the bookcase to the base unit. Assemble them both, chuck Billy on top, push it back until the backs of the two units are inline/flush, and then look at them from the back. The back edges of Billy's side panels will hopefully line up with the back edges of Thingie's ditto. You now fit these brackets - vertically - across them both, so half comes up Billy's side and half down over Thingie's. Screw 'em. Yes?

    You have now joined Billy to Thingie at their backs. If you now pull forwards on Billy, it won't tip. If you pull hard on Billy, it'll pull Thingie over with it too. Yes? If you push sideways on Billy, it might move a fraction, but you should be able to push it off Thingie. So, these brackets are doing a good thing.

    If you push back on Billy, then Billy will lift off at the front and you'll bend the brackets - so stop that now. But no-one will do that, and the wall will be there to prevent it anyways.

    Now, if Thingy had enough depth - like the previous base unit - it would all stand up nicely and also be stable enough - very little chance of it all toppling forwards. However, Thingie is only 400-odd mm deep, and with Billy on top it's also higher than expected. This will quite likely make it unstable - tho' really only if folk are silly. So, a different bracket - a tether - should really be fitted at the very TOP of Billy to secure it to the wall. This is purely to stop it all falling forwards.
    Thank you very much Jeepers. I now understand. I might also fit 2 T brackets to the top as well for extra support though probably overkill. There is a difference of 2 cm between the base unit and the billy unit, hope that won't be an issue. If so I will have to go back to the previous base unit which was also 80 cm. 

    Regarding the base unit I might look into the deeper one if it will be more effective. The reason I opted for the less deep one is that I didn't want the unit to go further then the dining room / Living room wooden partition as can be seen on image below as I wanted to make it look inbuilt after fitting and not sure how to accomplish if the base unit goes further out then the wooden partition. 

    Any unit below 41cm Depth will stop before the wooden thing whatever it is called.

  • You should be fine - I'd stick with the Brimnes since it'll obviously fit in there better.

    It shouldn't matter that the two units are 2cm different in width, unless it's the Billy that's wider?

    1cm either side ain't a lot, so it should be ok, but it's hard to make that judgement without seeing them.

    That timber trim is called 'architrave' - it's the moulding that surrounds doorways. Yes, you do want the unit to sit 'inside' that or it just won't look right.
  • Argh! The Brimnes is only 78cm wide! WHY?!!!!

    Is this all fitting inside an alcove between the wall and a chimney breast? And how wide is it?
  • Danny30
    Danny30 Posts: 499 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 14 February 2021 at 9:34PM
    Argh! The Brimnes is only 78cm wide! WHY?!!!!

    Is this all fitting inside an alcove between the wall and a chimney breast? And how wide is it?
    Lol, yes, the other one is 80cm wide but is deeper. Just can't win.
    The width behind the architrave is 83.5 as the skirting taking up 2cm width on each end. 
    The architrave comes out 2cm from the wall so anything going beyond the architrave would need to be around 81 cm wide maximum.

  • rach_k
    rach_k Posts: 2,254 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    If the Brimnes is only 40cm deep, would it not save you a lot of hassle just to get the tall 40cm deep Billy and fit doors to just the bottom half?

    The only issue would be that I don't think they do the extension shelf for the deep Billy, but I would personally find it easier to improvise my own top shelf than stacking units.  Just an idea!

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