Filling gaps in brickwork around pipes

NoisyGiraffe

We recently had a new boiler installed in our outhouse, which backs on to the end of the kitchen. The gas and water pipes go under the suspended floor in the kitchen and come out through the brick wall in the outhouse. There's quite a big gap, which I'd  like to fill, mostly to prevent the possibility of rodents (or anything else really!) getting in, but I'm also wondering if it's contributing to that end of the kitchen being so cold (along with a draughty window but thats getting sorted today), so I thought maybe I could use something with some kind of insulation value? I've attached some photos so you can see what's what.

Could anybody point me in the right direction of what's best to use?

Grenage

I don't like expanding foam, but it's probably ideal for this unless you fancy removing the pipes, bricking it up, and drilling smaller holes.

You could at the least just stuff it with rockwool insulation.

FreeBear

Put some pipe lagging on those pipes that disappear through the wall. Then pack it with fibreglass/rockwool - Don't pack it in too firmly. Then cut a piece of plywood to cover the hole & fit round the pipes (you'll need to do it in two halves), and screw it to the wall. The plywood is primarily to make the job look a bit neater, but will also stop vermin from getting through.

TELLIT01

Expanding foam will do the job, but FreeBear's suggestion will be much neater.

nofoollikeold

1. The gas pipe should have been sleeved where it goes through the brickwork. 
1a. It is normal to use a pipe of the next size up.  Your gas pipe looks like 22 mm, so the installer should have fitted a piece of 28 mm copper pipe around the outside of it.
1b. The sleeve should be mortared into the brickwork such that there is no reduction in fire resistance of the wall.
1c. At one end, the gap between gas pipe and sleeve filled with a fire resistant flexible sealant. For an external wall, this seal would be at the inside end, and that might be sensible in your case.
1d. You should really get the installers back to do it.  
2. The water pipes should also be sleeved where they go through a wall.  The sleeving can be plastic or copper, and again the sleeivng should be sealed inside the aperture with something like mortar.  

Jeepers_Creepers

NFLO's is the 'proper' solution (tho' the alternatives are ok in practice). Not sure if it was part of the quote, tho' - perhaps adding making good with mortar was an extra?

NG, what sort of fix do you want and are happy to undertake? Using cement? (This could be a small ready-mix pack). If so, cover all these pipes with foam lagging (that'll do...) like you see on the rest of them, and cement away... :-)   

lesalanos

Jeepers_Creepers said:

NFLO's is the 'proper' solution (tho' the alternatives are ok in practice). Not sure if it was part of the quote, tho' - perhaps adding making good with mortar was an extra?

NG, what sort of fix do you want and are happy to undertake? Using cement? (This could be a small ready-mix pack). If so, cover all these pipes with foam lagging (that'll do...) like you see on the rest of them, and cement away... :-)   

In practice doesn't meet regulations though 

Jeepers_Creepers

Fair point. Well made. 'tard. :-)  

NoisyGiraffe

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! 

The plumbers didn't even mention it, and I didn't know to ask. It was done a few months ago and they've been back to do separate work for us since so I'm not sure if I can/should call them back and ask them to do anything with this now. 

I'm not very good with cement - I did a small amount of pointing a few months ago and it was pretty untidy (ok, it looked a pigs ear!). I think I'd be confident in being able to do what FreeBear suggested though so I might go down that route.

How big an issue is it if it doesn't meet regs? I don't mean to sound silly, this is my first house so I've a lot of learning to do! Is it a safety issue or something that's going to cause problems down the line, and if so, what problems? 

Thanks again!

nofoollikeold

1. The gas pipe is a safety issue.  The sleeving is meant to protect the gas pipe from contact with masonry, which could damage and even pierce the pipe, allowing for an escape of gas.  What are the chances of a problem - very low.  What is the impact if it does happen - potentially very high.
2. To sleeve it now requires the pipe to be cut so that the sleeving can be put on, and then it must be re-joined or replaced.  Only a Gas Safe registered fitter is allowed to do it.
3. If you were to get Gas Safe to inspect it, they would almost certainly insist the fitters rectify the situation.  You might hint to the installers that unless they do it off their own bat, you would involve Gas Safe.
4. The water pipes are more an issue of not following good (never mind best) practice.

lesalanos

Looking at the pic it does look as though there may be some sleeving already there but would need checking properly for size and that it is sealed correctly