Cast iron bath removal

danrv

donemedosh said:

I had to do the same about 5 years ago. I wanted to keep the bath as it was large & cast iron (just needed reenameling) but when i tried I found that the end wall was put in after the bath was fitted as about 2inches of plaster had encased the bath. Smashed it with a sledge hammer. Please wear ear defenders if you do break it up as its like working in a bell tower. Then if you are unable to fit new one get the plumber to fit it.

Thanks.
The bath I think is set a little into the wall/plaster. It may be a standard 1700mm size but the new one I’ve bought is 1685mm. This fits just right between the walls.
I may get a plumber to plumb it in once the plastering’s done.

KeithP

danrv said:

I know that the tap holes on the new bath are the same distance apart as these ones so I’ll try again. 

Of course they are, otherwise none of  the monobloc bathroom taps on the market would fit. 

danrv

Jeepers_Creepers said:

If the new bath is going in exactly the same place and has the exact same tap dimensions and the bath is the exact same height and the tap tails are the exact same length, then perhaps you'll get away with using the existing pipework.

I’ll probably need to cut back the pipes a little to fit the JG stop ends.
I did try taking the olives off the other pipes in the bathroom but it was proving difficult even with a remover.

Swasterix

danrv said:

Jeepers_Creepers said:

If the new bath is going in exactly the same place and has the exact same tap dimensions and the bath is the exact same height and the tap tails are the exact same length, then perhaps you'll get away with using the existing pipework.

I’ll probably need to cut back the pipes a little to fit the JG stop ends.
I did try taking the olives off the other pipes in the bathroom but it was proving difficult even with a remover.

 Nip to screwfix, pick up a couple of speed fit stop ends. Turn off the water, cut the pipes, push the stop ends on, turn the water back on. Will only take you 5 mins (not including the trip to the shop). Saves messing about, shouting and swearing at a spanner :-)

Won’t make it any more difficult to fit your new bath taps, as they’ll likely come with flexible tap connections, so you’ll probably have to alter the pipe work anyway.

edit- just realised you’ve got some stop ends - time to get the hacksaw out 😂 

Swasterix

Ps. Probably worth fitting some isolation valves while you’re at it, saves you messing about with the stopcock and makes it easier if you re-do in the future or have any leaks, etc. 

danrv

Swasterix said:

Ps. Probably worth fitting some isolation valves while you’re at it, saves you messing about with the stopcock and makes it easier if you re-do in the future or have any leaks, etc. 

Good idea fitting local ones. 
At the moment I just turn off the main water supply. The hot has an isolation valve at the immersion tank.
Would also be handy to have them at the basin and loo inlet. I’ve only seen the red and blue lever type but something more compact might be needed for the basin.

Swasterix

danrv said:

Swasterix said:

Ps. Probably worth fitting some isolation valves while you’re at it, saves you messing about with the stopcock and makes it easier if you re-do in the future or have any leaks, etc. 

Good idea fitting local ones. 
At the moment I just turn off the main water supply. The hot has an isolation valve at the immersion tank.
Would also be handy to have them at the basin and loo inlet. I’ve only seen the red and blue lever type but something more compact might be needed for the basin.

Yeah, I have isolating valves to toilet, hot and cold sink and bath. You can pick up a pack of 10 15mm valves for less than a tenner. 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-15mm-10-pack/32802?tc=IA4&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw7diEBhB-EiwAskVi13Q31kJzKiDkuinzoioFd8wT-qrRFUDBU05IcixRaZjcYBJWMQ69kRoCG7QQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You’ll obviously need a 22mm one for the bath hot water supply. 

danrv

Swasterix said:

danrv said:

Swasterix said:

Ps. Probably worth fitting some isolation valves while you’re at it, saves you messing about with the stopcock and makes it easier if you re-do in the future or have any leaks, etc. 

Good idea fitting local ones. 
At the moment I just turn off the main water supply. The hot has an isolation valve at the immersion tank.
Would also be handy to have them at the basin and loo inlet. I’ve only seen the red and blue lever type but something more compact might be needed for the basin.

Yeah, I have isolating valves to toilet, hot and cold sink and bath. You can pick up a pack of 10 15mm valves for less than a tenner. 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/isolating-valve-15mm-10-pack/32802?tc=IA4&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw7diEBhB-EiwAskVi13Q31kJzKiDkuinzoioFd8wT-qrRFUDBU05IcixRaZjcYBJWMQ69kRoCG7QQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

You’ll obviously need a 22mm one for the bath hot water supply. 

They’ll do great, thanks.

danrv

Tough one this.
Using a club hammer but won’t break. Might have to try a sledge hammer.
Cutting into it, the metal is shiny. Assuming cast iron is like this.

FreeBear

Cast iron, when it breaks, will have a grey crystalline appearance. It doesn't usually take that much force to break the stuff.. You might have a pressed steel tub there which will be a right pig to smash up - Oxy-propane cutting torch or a 9" grinder will get through it.