Toilet plumbing issue

matty_hunt

Hi. I have this toilet that does not clear very well when flushed. I think the issue is the sewage pipe is higher than the back of the toilet outlet. I was thinking to cut the cast iron pipe with an angle grinder somewhere near the red line and attach a collar so the outlet is level, if not downwards. There is the scope to move the bowl back about six inches if needed. So, my question to those of you in the know, is this the correct thing to do? If so, will cutting through the cast iron pipe with a diamond cutting disc be straight forward? Does the collar have a specific name so I can find it on screwfix? Anything I should be aware of?  Many thanks for any input.

Jeepers_Creepers

That would certainly cause such an issue, and would need sorting even if other things contribute to the poor clearance, such as cistern water level too low.

And your solution is correct. Cutting through the cast pipe shouldn't be difficult - just take it steadily using a 'steel' cutting disc - or I guess diamond edged if you wish. 

Wrap tape around the pipe at the point you wish to cut so as to follow a straight circular line. 

Plenty of connectors available - best to go for a solid type and not concertina'd flexible. Eg: https://www.screwfix.com/p/viva-slinky-fit-wc-pan-connector-white-110mm/120hr

First decide on where the cut will be that'll allow a nice straight line from the gently-sloping outlet of the pan to the more-severely sloping cast pipe. Looking at your pic, you'll likely need to cut that cast pipe closer to the wall than you imagine to get it low enough. Cut the cast pipe at right-angles - ie to leave a circular opening and not oval (sorry if stating the obvious).

There will be some movement available at the pan end of the connector in particular, but you really want the line through it all to be as straight as possible. Work that out first - moving the pan backwards if needed. You'll then end up with a suitable length and style of pan connector such as the one above or similar. 

Eg. This one has a 14o angle to it: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-macfit-mac-7a-wc-pan-connector-white-110mm/105hr Good chance you'll need something like this.

This type is offset for when pan and soil pipe are misaligned:  https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-macfit-mac-4-wc-20mm-offset-pan-connector-white-90-112mm/36108 (I doubt that will help as the issue you have to overcome is the two different angles of pipes.)

They should all fit inside the cut cast pipe - it'll almost certainly be 4" O/D or very close, just like plastic soil pipe. (Wrap a strip of paper around the outside, mark the circ and divide by 3.14 to confirm)

Jeepers_Creepers

And if it all goes to s***, then you can always fall back on flexible pan connectors such as the type already there :-)

They work absolutely fine, but they just look a bit 'bodge', that's all. I wouldn't blame you for resorting to one of these in your situation, tho', as the finished gap and relative angles you have to deal with might be tricky to work through in advance in order to find an off-the-shelf 'solid' connector. If you'd rather use one of these, then go for it.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-wc-f26r-flexible-wc-pan-connector-white-97-107mm/71219

As before, make sure the cast pipe is cut far enough back to the wall to allow a constant 'fall' from the pan. 

FreeBear

matty_hunt said: will cutting through the cast iron pipe with a diamond cutting disc be straight forward?

Cutting cast iron will kill a diamond disc pretty fast. For the price of one diamond disc, you can get a pack of five metal cutting discs from Screwfix. Make sure you run a disc round the inside & outside of the pipe to get rid of any burrs.

Last time I used a (FloPlast) pan coupler on a cast iron pipe, I pumped a load of silicone sealant between the ribs of the rubber seal before pushing it in to the pipe. Belt & braces approach to make sure the darned thing never leaks again.

Jeepers_Creepers

Very good point - you don't want the sharp cast edge scoring or tearing the gasket - what a pita that would be :-)

Alter_ego

Make sure you disc off the casting line on the pipe before you fit the collar.

Jeepers_Creepers

I don't think that external casting line will be an issue; the connector will fit internally, and this will almost certainly be smooth.

Alter_ego

Jeepers_Creepers said:

I don't think that external casting line will be an issue; the connector will fit internally, and this will almost certainly be smooth.

Yes of course,  Doh!

Martin_the_Unjust

Hmmmm, wouldn't it be easier and simpler to raise the toilet and cistern up by putting a plinth of wood under it?

After all your going to have to take it all out to get space to cut the pipe, or am I missing something?

Homer_home

Martin_the_Unjust said:

Hmmmm, wouldn't it be easier and simpler to raise the toilet and cistern up by putting a plinth of wood under it?

After all your going to have to take it all out to get space to cut the pipe, or am I missing something?

To raise the toilet to remove the issue would require a very thick piece of wood , not only that the water feed might need adjusting , the overflow pipe (if it has one ) would need adjusting , if the cistern has been tiled around (or painted around) that would need sorting 

It's much easier to simply adjust one thing, the pipe, so no it's not easier and simpler to simply raise the toilet 

Jeepers_Creepers

Cutting that cast pipe is the correct solution, and it looks as tho' Matty is up for it.