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Another Storage Heater Thread
Comments
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macman said:What proportion of your annual kWh usage is currently on cheap rate? With only one working NSH, and presumably an immersion heater, it's unlikely to be enough to make E7 an economical tariff.
Just did some tests: each storage heater has its own switch (those three on the left marked with "store") which turn the electric plug they're connected to off. The other switch the living room storage heater is connected to (for convection) seems to be controlled one of the "socket" switches which turns off every device connected to the living room sockets. So it does look like they're somehow wired separately, hopefully the electrician can get this timed properly to the cheap E7 hours.macman said:CU: it's hard to see clearly, but 3 of the 16A MCB's on the left side appear to be marked 'store rad' or similar, which indicates that you already have a radial circuit wired to each NSH, as they should be. These should be hard wired at each NSH for the E7 cheap rate side: the convector can run off the 13A ring main.0 -
supermario64 said:macman said:What proportion of your annual kWh usage is currently on cheap rate? With only one working NSH, and presumably an immersion heater, it's unlikely to be enough to make E7 an economical tariff.0
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Gerry1 said:danrv said:No E7 timer?Apparently it's built in to the Landis + Gyr 5246C meter. The OP needs to look at the meter to see exactly when it switches over
Good idea to check the switching times. Somewhere around 12.00 - 7.00am.
Took me a while to figure my E10 switching times as they’re seven hours out.
As mentioned, a good electrician would be able to sort it.
There’s discontinued Creda TSR storage heaters available quite cheap on EBay if
the current ones can’t be fixed easily.
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danrv said:1
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If you are getting 54% off peak already, then E7 is a no-brainer: it can break even as low as 20% for some people, through 33% is a better benchmark. It depends on the particular tariff. I'm frankly amazed that you are getting that percentage off one NSH and an immersion heater, plus the w/m. It means that your overall daytime usage must be very low.
The CU is wired correctly to the heaters. The issue is the upstream connection into the E7 meter.No free lunch, and no free laptop1 -
Gerry1 said:
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supermario64 said:macman said:What proportion of your annual kWh usage is currently on cheap rate? With only one working NSH, and presumably an immersion heater, it's unlikely to be enough to make E7 an economical tariff.
Just did some tests: each storage heater has its own switch (those three on the left marked with "store") which turn the electric plug they're connected to off. The other switch the living room storage heater is connected to (for convection) seems to be controlled one of the "socket" switches which turns off every device connected to the living room sockets. So it does look like they're somehow wired separately, hopefully the electrician can get this timed properly to the cheap E7 hours.macman said:CU: it's hard to see clearly, but 3 of the 16A MCB's on the left side appear to be marked 'store rad' or similar, which indicates that you already have a radial circuit wired to each NSH, as they should be. These should be hard wired at each NSH for the E7 cheap rate side: the convector can run off the 13A ring main.0 -
Talldave said:supermario64 said:macman said:What proportion of your annual kWh usage is currently on cheap rate? With only one working NSH, and presumably an immersion heater, it's unlikely to be enough to make E7 an economical tariff.
Just did some tests: each storage heater has its own switch (those three on the left marked with "store") which turn the electric plug they're connected to off. The other switch the living room storage heater is connected to (for convection) seems to be controlled one of the "socket" switches which turns off every device connected to the living room sockets. So it does look like they're somehow wired separately, hopefully the electrician can get this timed properly to the cheap E7 hours.macman said:CU: it's hard to see clearly, but 3 of the 16A MCB's on the left side appear to be marked 'store rad' or similar, which indicates that you already have a radial circuit wired to each NSH, as they should be. These should be hard wired at each NSH for the E7 cheap rate side: the convector can run off the 13A ring main.0 -
Gerry1 said:Talldave said:supermario64 said:macman said:What proportion of your annual kWh usage is currently on cheap rate? With only one working NSH, and presumably an immersion heater, it's unlikely to be enough to make E7 an economical tariff.
Just did some tests: each storage heater has its own switch (those three on the left marked with "store") which turn the electric plug they're connected to off. The other switch the living room storage heater is connected to (for convection) seems to be controlled one of the "socket" switches which turns off every device connected to the living room sockets. So it does look like they're somehow wired separately, hopefully the electrician can get this timed properly to the cheap E7 hours.macman said:CU: it's hard to see clearly, but 3 of the 16A MCB's on the left side appear to be marked 'store rad' or similar, which indicates that you already have a radial circuit wired to each NSH, as they should be. These should be hard wired at each NSH for the E7 cheap rate side: the convector can run off the 13A ring main.0 -
Surely there’s an indicator on the meter to show which rate is active?
Supplier stated times may not tally with the timer at all.
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