Solid laminate kitchen worktop surfaces

Until just recently, my partner and I thought the realistic options for kitchen worktop surfaces were granite, quartz and laminate (the thick type made from chipboard). We were fairly sold on going with quartz.

However looking around in Wickes, we noticed a worktop surface that didn't seem to fall in any of these categories, it was as thin as granite/quartz worktop but it didn't feel like it. When we asked, we told it was called a solid laminate worktop. Apparently, it is layers of laminate compressed together to make a very tough and durable worktop surface.

The cost of solid laminate is substantially less than quartz/granite. Apparently around £300 for a 300cm x 60cm piece.

I can't seem to find much information online about it or any good suppliers for it.

  1. Does anyone know where this can be purchased from (other than Wickes)?
  2. What is the durability of it compared to quartz?
  3. Any issues with cutting out holes for basin, taps, hob etc?
  4. If it needs cutting, how is the edge finish?
  5. Is it possible to get over 3 metres? (we have one side of the kitchen that is 3.1 metres long)
  6. Any other pros, cons or general opinions on this?
Thanks in advance
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Comments

  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Looks similar, but much cheaper than £300,  and I see 4.1m



  • Swasterix
    Swasterix Posts: 347 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    tallac said:
    Until just recently, my partner and I thought the realistic options for kitchen worktop surfaces were granite, quartz and laminate (the thick type made from chipboard). We were fairly sold on going with quartz.

    However looking around in Wickes, we noticed a worktop surface that didn't seem to fall in any of these categories, it was as thin as granite/quartz worktop but it didn't feel like it. When we asked, we told it was called a solid laminate worktop. Apparently, it is layers of laminate compressed together to make a very tough and durable worktop surface.

    The cost of solid laminate is substantially less than quartz/granite. Apparently around £300 for a 300cm x 60cm piece.

    I can't seem to find much information online about it or any good suppliers for it.

    1. Does anyone know where this can be purchased from (other than Wickes)?
    2. What is the durability of it compared to quartz?
    3. Any issues with cutting out holes for basin, taps, hob etc?
    4. If it needs cutting, how is the edge finish?
    5. Is it possible to get over 3 metres? (we have one side of the kitchen that is 3.1 metres long)
    6. Any other pros, cons or general opinions on this?
    Thanks in advance
    We had this in our last kitchen. It was 12.5mm Zenith worktop. Made by a company called Wilsonart, we bought through B&Q. Think there are a few brands out there and can be bought widely online. 

    Seemed to be hard wearing but we sold the house a year or so after we installed it so wouldn’t like to say 100%. 

    It is a really, REALLY, hard material. The lad who fit the worktops destroyed a number of router bits in the process!

    The only issue you could have is due to the fact that it’s so thin. Your hob will protrude some way beneath the surface, so you couldn’t have a drawer beneath for instance. No big deal though. 

    You just sand the cut edges, and they come up perfectly well. We also oiled ours with linseed oil which finished them off nicely. 

    Id definitely recommend it. It looks really smart. I personally really like the thin profile of it. Also, because it’s a solid material you can have under mount sink, drainer grooves etc. if that’s your thing. Google Zenith Worktop and you’ll see plenty of examples (other brands are available!). 
  • Doozergirl
    Doozergirl Posts: 34,057 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 13 October 2020 at 7:26AM
    All of the above. The pieces butt together really nicely in longer lengths.

    If I recall, there's some sort of compound that causes the edges to melt together, effectively, so you have to really look for the join.  I designed, and my guys built this commercial bar in a rugby club and we used it there.  There's definitely a join in here somewhere and I wouldn't have settled for anything obvious, in fact, I think the giveaway is only that it's a wood grain, so it changes.  

    It's really good stuff.  It looks different and if it can withstand rugby players it can withstand anything! 


    Everything that is supposed to be in heaven is already here on earth.
  • Apodemus
    Apodemus Posts: 3,410 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    tallac said:
    When we asked, we told it was called a solid laminate worktop. Apparently, it is layers of laminate compressed together to make a very tough and durable worktop surface.

    Sadly, it looks as if the meaning of the verb "to laminate" and the noun derived from it has become lost somewhere along the line! :smile:
  • Swasterix
    Swasterix Posts: 347 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    Apodemus said:
    tallac said:
    When we asked, we told it was called a solid laminate worktop. Apparently, it is layers of laminate compressed together to make a very tough and durable worktop surface.

    Sadly, it looks as if the meaning of the verb "to laminate" and the noun derived from it has become lost somewhere along the line! :smile:
    I think it’s to do with the fact that the top/bottom finish of the worktop is laminated to the solid core. 

    I’m pretty sure it’s the same stuff that they use for toilet cubicles and work benches in laboratories. So guess if it will cope with that you can’t go far wrong! Wish I’d gone for it in my current house rather than Oak to be honest!
  • tallac
    tallac Posts: 416 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    Thank you all for the great information. I think solid/compact laminate seems like a clear winner as well as being much much cheaper.
  • neilmcl
    neilmcl Posts: 19,460 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 13 October 2020 at 8:57PM
    Duropal also do this as their compact range and they are well renowned as being one the best producers of laminate worktops. I'd also echo the comment above about being mindful of the thickness when setting in a hob over for example an oven as you'll have to compensate accordingly which means you may have a largish gap between the underside of the worktop and the top of the oven.
  • tallac
    tallac Posts: 416 Forumite
    Fourth Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    Swasterix said:
    The only issue you could have is due to the fact that it’s so thin. Your hob will protrude some way beneath the surface, so you couldn’t have a drawer beneath for instance. No big deal though.  
    I'm a little confused by this. If the thickness of solid laminate is about the same as a quartz/granite worktop, then wouldn't this have the same issue? If that's the case then any kitchen designer familiar with quartz/granite, would be able to plan accordingly?
  • Swasterix
    Swasterix Posts: 347 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    tallac said:
    Swasterix said:
    The only issue you could have is due to the fact that it’s so thin. Your hob will protrude some way beneath the surface, so you couldn’t have a drawer beneath for instance. No big deal though.  
    I'm a little confused by this. If the thickness of solid laminate is about the same as a quartz/granite worktop, then wouldn't this have the same issue? If that's the case then any kitchen designer familiar with quartz/granite, would be able to plan accordingly?
    I’m not sure about the thickness of stone worktops having never had one, but if that’s true then yes they would have the same issue. But as I said, it’s really not that much of a big deal. 

    Its 12mm thick, so for example if your hob is 40mm then it’s obviously going to protrude out of the bottom. This means that a drawer underneath would potentially catch on the bottom of the hob. No problem though, just put a dummy front on. 

    Another thing - the fixings that lock the hob into the worktop are likely deeper than 12mm, so would not stay put without sone fettling. The fitter would just need to add something to pack out the worktop beneath the hob so the fixings catch properly. 

    You may struggle to get an oven underneath a hob due to this protrusion, but I’d guess there is a workaround. 

    Wilsonart have a number of videos online with instructions on how to fit their worktops. Google “zenith worktop fitting”  if you have time and you’ll be able to see the way to work around the above. 

    It’s something to consider but really not too much of a problem!

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