Hardwiring dash cam - which fuse??

JustAnotherSaver

Some people don't like 'spoon feeding' I guess but honestly, this is a topic I'm going to have to be shown (not possible here, obviously) or spoon fed with text. 

My aim in the thread was to find a spot to let me hardwire the dashcam where it'd come on with the ignition and I've been able to do that. This other stuff was just additional knowledge but it's beyond me I guess so I'll leave it at that. 

Hi_Fidelity

talkford.com/community/topic/309289-ford-mondeo-mk3-cigarette-lighter-always-onon-with-ignition/     (can't post links yet ... insert https etc. at the front if necessary).

A quick Google found me that ... it seems that if F68 is inline with all the other fuses then it is always on; move it up slightly (so only the bottom half of the fuse lines up with the other fuses) and it is connected to the ignition. Ironically that OP wanted it always on - to power their dashcam!  

JustAnotherSaver

Now YOU have lost me  I wanted the dash cam always on? All throughout I've said I wanted it off when the key is pulled.

I'll check your link when I get home and I'm on a PC. 

Hi_Fidelity

You've misunderstood what I wrote.
YOU said the power socket was always on. This means that YOUR fuse F68 is in the lower position (inline with the other fuses). If you move YOUR fuse F68 to the upper position then the power socket should be dependent on the ignition.

The comment I made was that YOUR desire is the opposite to the guy in that thread I found, ("that OP wanted it always on" - meaning the OP of that linked thread) so basically you need to do the opposite of what he did.  

531063

JustAnotherSaver said:

531063 said:

Does your radio switch off when key is removed, if it does fuse tap into the radio fuse.

I'll try that tomorrow to be sure.

I was in there today cleaning it out & i wondered if it'd power up if i pressed the power button with no key in.

It illuminated, the display said "1 hour" and it went to AUX (which is what i have it set to right now as default).

If that helps answer your question any?

If your radio goes off when you take the key out then obviously that fuse is dead so just wire cam into that fuse & cam will switch off when you take key out. 

JustAnotherSaver

Hi_Fidelity said:

You've misunderstood what I wrote.
YOU said the power socket was always on. This means that YOUR fuse F68 is in the lower position (inline with the other fuses). If you move YOUR fuse F68 to the upper position then the power socket should be dependent on the ignition.

The comment I made was that YOUR desire is the opposite to the guy in that thread I found, ("that OP wanted it always on" - meaning the OP of that linked thread) so basically you need to do the opposite of what he did.  

I get you now. Thanks for the clear up. I'm back at home and had time to click through on a PC. Helpful link so thanks. A few photos can explain what a mountain of words can't.

Love how that guy came in being a little on the arsey side with him though. OP was just creating a thread trying to help others, nothing more nothing less. Who cares whether it's posted elsewhere or is a decade or even a century old. Maybe someone is looking for it and hasn't seen these other locations but finds this one guys post and is able to achieve something from it. No harm in helping people in my view. 99 people could try and teach someone something and fail but that 100th person just teaches it the right way that connects. I don't see anything bad in putting more help out there but oh well.

JustAnotherSaver

2 questions here.

First off is the fuse situation:

So as i understand it, the yellow arrow is pointing to the fuse relating to my 12v socket.

As i've already said, the 12v socket is permanently on, whether the key is in the ignition or not.

So reading this thread, as i understand it, the 'bed' (whatever the correct term is??) of the fuse is longer than all the other fuses. So if i just shift that fuse upwards a little then the 12v socket will then only come on with the ignition?

Is this correct?

Second question:

Today i was stripping out my old car. Took out my head unit and dash cam as i've gotten rid of the Nextbase unit i had in this car as it was pretty abysmal.

I'm going to use this dashcam (Mio Mivue 618) in my current car but i would prefer it being hardwired. I saw there was a hardwire kit for the Nextbase which looked relatively simple. Tapping in to an existing fuse.

The installer of this dashcam took the 12v cable for it and plugged it in to some female socket that he installed behind the glovebox. The female socket then had wires stripped and when i had removed the head unit wiring i saw he had basically wired it in to that wiring somehow. In that car the radio was ignition live.

Now if we get in to stripping wires and cutting wires then i'm basically going to have no power in my car and cause a whole heap of damage.

What do i need to do in order to power this Mio Mivue 618 unit in a hard wired situation?

The power cable i have has a male 12v socket on the end of it so that's no good plugging in to the fuses.

Would be most grateful for links to any parts needed. I Googled Mio Mivue hardwire kit and unfortunately unlike the Nextbase, one doesn't seem to exist.

thorganby

You are seriously lacking in self confidence! 

There is no need to cut any wires or buy a rip off special wiring kit.

Using one of these "Add a circuit fuse" inserted in a suitable fuse of your choice.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Holder/dp/B017O0QHZU

or a similar item from eBay etc, you simply connect the dash cam cable positive (usually red) to the short lead and the dash cam cable negative (usually black) to a suitable earth point e.g. under a nearby bolt or screw.

It really is that simple.

JustAnotherSaver

thorganby said:

You are seriously lacking in self confidence!

Yep i think you nailed me in one there. I wouldn't disagree with you. Comes from consistently breaking things, doing things wrong, trying to do them right but doing them wrong again, and then again. Maybe on the 10th time i get it right, maybe not.

And when it's electrical, the lack of self confidence is just multiplied tenfold as electronics has always been one area i have never ever understood.

Anyway...

thorganby said:

Using one of these "Add a circuit fuse" inserted in a suitable fuse of your choice.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Holder/dp/B017O0QHZU

or a similar item from eBay etc, you simply connect the dash cam cable positive (usually red) to the short lead and the dash cam cable negative (usually black) to a suitable earth point e.g. under a nearby bolt or screw.

It really is that simple.

I've looked up some YouTube videos as well. Problem is the end of the 'dash cam positive' and also a negative i suppose is a big whopping 12v male. Basically it's this. For me to power it any other way i would need some kind of USB thing (micro, mini, whateveritmaybecalled) that plugs in to the dash cam unit itself and then loose separate wiring at the other end.

I am guessing this is why the previous installer did it the way he did it - wiring in a 12v female socket behind the glovebox.

As i'm trying to understand this, i think i need something like this - a 12v female socket. I then need to somehow wire in the positive red wire from that socket in to a fuse tap as you mention.

Do i just bunch up the exposed wiring in to the fuse tap and crimp it down? Suppose i'll need a set of crimpers.

Then the negative i'm not so sure. I've seen them be attached to a ring like thing and then attached to where a nearby bolt may be on the car. I'm not sure if there's another option as this one seems to be the one selected by the videos i've watched.

Then the 12v male from the dashcam just plugs in to that 12v female and everything tucked behind the glovebox as the previous installer did.

Scrapit

JustAnotherSaver said:

thorganby said:

You are seriously lacking in self confidence!

Yep i think you nailed me in one there. I wouldn't disagree with you. Comes from consistently breaking things, doing things wrong, trying to do them right but doing them wrong again, and then again. Maybe on the 10th time i get it right, maybe not.

And when it's electrical, the lack of self confidence is just multiplied tenfold as electronics has always been one area i have never ever understood.

Anyway...

thorganby said:

Using one of these "Add a circuit fuse" inserted in a suitable fuse of your choice.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Circuit-Piggy-Back-Standard-Blade-Holder/dp/B017O0QHZU

or a similar item from eBay etc, you simply connect the dash cam cable positive (usually red) to the short lead and the dash cam cable negative (usually black) to a suitable earth point e.g. under a nearby bolt or screw.

It really is that simple.

I've looked up some YouTube videos as well. Problem is the end of the 'dash cam positive' and also a negative i suppose is a big whopping 12v male. Basically it's this. For me to power it any other way i would need some kind of USB thing (micro, mini, whateveritmaybecalled) that plugs in to the dash cam unit itself and then loose separate wiring at the other end.

I am guessing this is why the previous installer did it the way he did it - wiring in a 12v female socket behind the glovebox.

As i'm trying to understand this, i think i need something like this - a 12v female socket. I then need to somehow wire in the positive red wire from that socket in to a fuse tap as you mention.

Do i just bunch up the exposed wiring in to the fuse tap and crimp it down? Suppose i'll need a set of crimpers.

Then the negative i'm not so sure. I've seen them be attached to a ring like thing and then attached to where a nearby bolt may be on the car. I'm not sure if there's another option as this one seems to be the one selected by the videos i've watched.

Then the 12v male from the dashcam just plugs in to that 12v female and everything tucked behind the glovebox as the previous installer did.

Thats just the 12v plug. Buy a hardwire dash cam kit off the bay for dead cheap. Then pull a suitable fuse, plug kit in empty fuse slot, put fuse into dash cam kit slot, wire to earth, hide wires without destroying too much internal trim. 30 mins work including drinking tea.