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Economy 7 - Hot water not working

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  • Talldave
    Talldave Posts: 2,002 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    It would be a standard switch plate but with an additional cover that gives access to a fuse.

    I would expect the MCB to be a 16A like the off peak circuit but I'm not a qualified electrician.  I'm sceptical of anything that looks botched, modified or out of place. And fitting a higher rated MCB to solve a frequent tripping problem is a typical botch (and isn't safe if the circuit is meant to be protected at 16A).

    But we digress from your off peak problem!  Sadly I suspect you need to be debugging during E7 hours.
  • avoidtheupsidedownbottles
    avoidtheupsidedownbottles Posts: 560 Forumite
    Fifth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 8 June 2020 at 3:05PM
    The setting you have on the thermostat is only about 30 or 35 degrees according to this


  • Gerry1
    Gerry1 Posts: 10,848 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 8 June 2020 at 4:43PM
    Get yourself a cheap neon screwdriver and touch it on the 'A' terminal after the meter has switched to cheap rate and see whether it lights up.  Or buy a cheap multimeter: search for '830B multimeter' (there are many similar brands, often yellow).  I've had one for decades, very good and reliable. Or take the plug off a table lamp and touch the wires across 'A' and 'B' and see whether it lights.
    Whatever you do, don't touch any terminals, assume both are live at all times.  Similarly don't rely on the wires' colour coding or the circuit being off peak only.
  • MWT
    MWT Posts: 10,273 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Fifth Anniversary Name Dropper
    Heely said:
    New element.
    That is the thermostat, not the heating element.
    Sounds like your neighbour has replaced the thermostat which may or may not have been broken, but if the tank wasn't drained then he didn't replace the immersion heater itself...

  • Think the easiest thing to do first is to switch off Boost, and turn up the lower thermostat to 4.5 tonight and see if it works.
  • Talldave
    Talldave Posts: 2,002 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    OP was the tank drained down?
  • Gerry1
    Gerry1 Posts: 10,848 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 8 June 2020 at 4:51PM
    No, see 2:45pm post.  Or perhaps the neighbour just stood upside down instead...
  • The original t-stat was a Cotherm TSR with max setting of 160º C.  Replacement 'stat is a TSE with maximum of 70 as above.  Might account for the confusion with settings.  
    Or the heater element may be knackered as well . .
  • Talldave
    Talldave Posts: 2,002 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Gerry1 said:
    No, see 2:45pm post.  Or perhaps the neighbour just stood upside down instead...
    Sorry missed that in crossed postings. So the element's knackered then - simples!
    I assume there is a cover that goes over that lower immersion element when we're not in diagnosis mode?
  • tim_p
    tim_p Posts: 878 Forumite
    Eighth Anniversary 500 Posts Name Dropper
    MWT said:
    Heely said:
    New element.
    That is the thermostat, not the heating element.
    Sounds like your neighbour has replaced the thermostat which may or may not have been broken, but if the tank wasn't drained then he didn't replace the immersion heater itself...

    That’s where I was going. Changing an element isn’t for the unwary. I think it was mentioned that it was changed in 2015 too. (Gonna tempt fate here but..) our element is 22 years old and in that time I’ve only replaced the stat once, I’m blaming that failure on ‘funny’ juice from the solar diverter.  
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