Oil Change - Let down by mechanic!!

AdrianC

Jumblebumble said:
This is good news but highlights the fact that much of the commenting here is speculation

Posters stated that the Mechanic had cross threaded the sump because he was a mobile mechanic which is untrue and of course it is absurd to assume that the threads were in perfect condition before he started.

Fred? Is that you?

Would you care to re-read the bits you refer to (but fail to quote)?

Scrapit

shaun_from_Africa said:

Scrapit said:

Why on earth do people think its appropriate to text in a business situation? Leave a voice mail, keep ringing, even go round to there premises(or maybe house in this case) but do not text, and no lol either.

Hermione_Granger said:

Scrapit said:

Why on earth do people think its appropriate to text in a business situation? 

Because this is the 21st century and not the 1950's.
A great many businesses are more than happy to receive text messages and a lot send out text messages to communicate with their customers.
A quick look on my phone shows that in the past 8 months, I have received texts from:
My doctors surgery,
A roofing contractor who did some work for me,
My home insurers,
A carpet fitter I employed.
Royal mail,
DHL,

and just about every large business may send text messages relating to online orders that have been placed.

.

Your mobile phone won't be going to court. And yes its not the 1950s, but its not a social event either. So no emojis, lol's or kisses in a text. Phone to speak to some one, email if you need that traceability or if you are from the 50's snail mail hard copy. Texts are are for planing trips to the pub or a weekend away with the girls. lol rfol gr8 thx.....!!!!!!?

DoaM

Text messages printed out are allowed as evidence in court. The judge can ask to see the original messages on the phone.

shaun_from_Africa

Scrapit said:

shaun_from_Africa said:

Scrapit said:

Why on earth do people think its appropriate to text in a business situation? Leave a voice mail, keep ringing, even go round to there premises(or maybe house in this case) but do not text, and no lol either.

Your mobile phone won't be going to court. And yes its not the 1950s, but its not a social event either. So no emojis, lol's or kisses in a text. Phone to speak to some one, email if you need that traceability or if you are from the 50's snail mail hard copy. Texts are are for planing trips to the pub or a weekend away with the girls. lol rfol gr8 thx.....!!!!!!?

On that I agree but you've not responded to the other points raised. In the case being discussed, the mechanic won't answer the phone so how can you speak to someone that won't answer?
There is no option to leave a voicemail so a message can't be left that way and the OP hasn't mentioned anything about knowing the e-mail address or physical address of the mechanic so I'll ask again.
If they can't phone to speak to or leave a voice message, can't email and can't write, what else would you suggest apart from sending a text message? (And that is not a rhetorical question. It's one I would like you to give a direct answer to).

I still can't believe that people still consider that text messages are for social use only. 
Are you saying that you've never had a text from a financial institution regarding a transaction or to provide a log in code? or that you have never once received a text message from a company and that every single text message you have received has been social related?

And your first point is incorrect.
Phone evidence can be used in both criminal and civil cases.

Scrapit

shaun_from_Africa said:

Scrapit said:

shaun_from_Africa said:

Scrapit said:

Why on earth do people think its appropriate to text in a business situation? Leave a voice mail, keep ringing, even go round to there premises(or maybe house in this case) but do not text, and no lol either.

Your mobile phone won't be going to court. And yes its not the 1950s, but its not a social event either. So no emojis, lol's or kisses in a text. Phone to speak to some one, email if you need that traceability or if you are from the 50's snail mail hard copy. Texts are are for planing trips to the pub or a weekend away with the girls. lol rfol gr8 thx.....!!!!!!?

On that I agree but you've not responded to the other points raised. In the case being discussed, the mechanic won't answer the phone so how can you speak to someone that won't answer?
There is no option to leave a voicemail so a message can't be left that way and the OP hasn't mentioned anything about knowing the e-mail address or physical address of the mechanic so I'll ask again.
If they can't phone to speak to or leave a voice message, can't email and can't write, what else would you suggest apart from sending a text message? (And that is not a rhetorical question. It's one I would like you to give a direct answer to).

I still can't believe that people still consider that text messages are for social use only. 
Are you saying that you've never had a text from a financial institution regarding a transaction or to provide a log in code? or that you have never once received a text message from a company and that every single text message you have received has been social related?

And your first point is incorrect.
Phone evidence can be used in both criminal and civil cases.

If they are blanking your calls you think they are gonna take the time to read yer spiel? Not gonna happen. Ever. Just a waste of electrons. 

Robisere

shaun_from_Africa said:

AdrianC said:

Robisere said:

As has been said, it now means that the sump will probably have to be removed and the sump plug taken out. Possibly the drain hole threads will have to be recut, or a thread insert put in.

It's very likely to be doable in situ - with luck, just a tap up the threads to clean them, then a new plug. They don't have any great stress on them, and don't even need to be done up tight at all (given the thread diameter, the torque is minimal).

One very important bit you left out.
After tapping, use a good amount of flushing oil to make sure that every trace of swarf has been removed from inside the sump as even a tiny bit left behind could lead to serious engine damage. I know that if done slowly and correctly, the cuttings should all come out with the tap but there is no way to guarantee 100% that this will happen.
To be honest, to avoid the risk, I think getting the sump pan off the engine and doing the job on a bench is far safer.

NO! I have posted on here about 'flushing oil' and what it does to an engine. Every engine has a very fine coating of oil 'varnish' on working parts and bearing surfaces, which protects the upper parts of the engine until the scavenge pump in the sump has circulated the oil to working parts and bearing surfaces. Flushing oil removes this protection, strips the varnish coating to bare metal. When you refill the engine with fresh engine oil of the correct grade, that fresh oil drains to the sump. Starting the engine from cold, it takes time for the oil to reach the upper parts. Until it does, there is wear to bearing surfaces: i.e. where two or more metal parts are in contact. They are not being lubricated at this time and the wear is not something you see, but can take thousands of miles from an engine's life.

The way I would carry out this job is: drain any remaining oil,remove the sump, thoroughly clean the scavenge pump and filter if fitted, clean the sump itself, examine the damaged bung and decide which way to deal with the bung: remove and recut threads, or carefully drill out old threads and insert a helicoil. It may be necessary to buy a new bung, after closely checking threads of the one removed. Fill with fresh oil and new oil filter. If possible, remove cam covers and apply a little oil to the cam gear. Replace cam covers, start engine, run until warm, turn off engine, check oil level.

It all depends on how long you want the engine to last, I suppose.

shaun_from_Africa

Robisere said:

NO! I have posted on here about 'flushing oil' and what it does to an engine. Every engine has a very fine coating of oil 'varnish' on working parts and bearing surfaces, which protects the upper parts of the engine until the scavenge pump in the sump has circulated the oil to working parts and bearing surfaces. Flushing oil removes this protection, strips the varnish coating to bare metal. 

But I specifically mentioned flushing oil and not one of the flushing additives available and it is these additives that can do the damage you refer to.
This is the sort of product I was referring to:
https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/engine-flushing-oil-2/
and I've used it on a number of engines in the past and never had a problem following its use.

Robisere

And this supports my reasoning, if you read into it:

" Rye Oil Ltd’s engine flushing oil is extremely thin oil and will be able to get into partially blocked, thin passages without any issues and remove the accumulated gunk as well. "

I was not referring solely to additives either. I am a motor engineer and was a workshop foreman of a large independent garage before I retired. Not only does it remove the gunk, it takes off the varnish that protects bearing surfaces as well. You may have used it on a number of engines in the past, but how long have you known those engines after you carried out that work? If you could strip one down now, the wear would be self-evident.

I admit that there are pros and cons to the treatment, but it is significant that Ford and Honda are just two manufacturers who state that using engine flushing oil or additives, will negate their warranty. I guess the old adage applies: yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice.

452

Robisere said:

shaun_from_Africa said:

AdrianC said:

Robisere said:

As has been said, it now means that the sump will probably have to be removed and the sump plug taken out. Possibly the drain hole threads will have to be recut, or a thread insert put in.

It's very likely to be doable in situ - with luck, just a tap up the threads to clean them, then a new plug. They don't have any great stress on them, and don't even need to be done up tight at all (given the thread diameter, the torque is minimal).

One very important bit you left out.
After tapping, use a good amount of flushing oil to make sure that every trace of swarf has been removed from inside the sump as even a tiny bit left behind could lead to serious engine damage. I know that if done slowly and correctly, the cuttings should all come out with the tap but there is no way to guarantee 100% that this will happen.
To be honest, to avoid the risk, I think getting the sump pan off the engine and doing the job on a bench is far safer.

NO! I have posted on here about 'flushing oil' and what it does to an engine. Every engine has a very fine coating of oil 'varnish' on working parts and bearing surfaces, which protects the upper parts of the engine until the scavenge pump in the sump has circulated the oil to working parts and bearing surfaces. Flushing oil removes this protection, strips the varnish coating to bare metal. When you refill the engine with fresh engine oil of the correct grade, that fresh oil drains to the sump. Starting the engine from cold, it takes time for the oil to reach the upper parts. Until it does, there is wear to bearing surfaces: i.e. where two or more metal parts are in contact. They are not being lubricated at this time and the wear is not something you see, but can take thousands of miles from an engine's life.

The way I would carry out this job is: drain any remaining oil,remove the sump, thoroughly clean the scavenge pump and filter if fitted, clean the sump itself, examine the damaged bung and decide which way to deal with the bung: remove and recut threads, or carefully drill out old threads and insert a helicoil. It may be necessary to buy a new bung, after closely checking threads of the one removed. Fill with fresh oil and new oil filter. If possible, remove cam covers and apply a little oil to the cam gear. Replace cam covers, start engine, run until warm, turn off engine, check oil level.

It all depends on how long you want the engine to last, I suppose.

You would go to all that trouble when a new washer was all that's needed. You must have been one of those mechanic Fred's dad once used. 

fred246

The main dealer where my dad used to take his car didn't even make any attempt to change the oil. Just stamped his book. It's not their car. They aren't bothered. Just do it yourself. It's not hard to be better than a garage.