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A wall multi socket adapter
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I don't get why you need it, if you are only going to use one item at a time. In those instances just plug in the one you want to use, it's the way I've done it for several years and only takes a few seconds.
Using a multiway plug, if it's the old square type, is something i grew up with as sockets were not as plentiful as they are now.
If it's the flat type, with switches, they can be a bit wobbly, based on the one a mate has in her Airbnb.
Apologies, I haven't clicked the link to check.
The only things I need plugged in and on the go at the same time is my PC set up, but run that off an extension lead.Mortgage started 2020, aiming to clear 31/12/2029.1 -
MovingForwards said:I don't get why you need it, if you are only going to use one item at a time. In those instances just plug in the one you want to use, it's the way I've done it for several years and only takes a few seconds.
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MovingForwards said:I don't get why you need it, if you are only going to use one item at a time. In those instances just plug in the one you want to use, it's the way I've done it for several years and only takes a few seconds.
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I would look into converter sockets where the kettle and toaster are involved.1
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grumbler said:Ectophile said:The people who designed the 13A BS1363 plug never really allowed for multi-way adaptors. The problem with the 13A BS1362 fuse you'll find in a plug is that it takes a substantial overload to blow it. They can pass 20A forever without blowing, by which time the plug may have melted.The original bakelite plugs wouldn't melt, but manufacturers use cheap thermoplastic these days instead.Does this not apply equally to a single appliance (that can overload the plug+socket) combination if it's faulty and an adaptor/extender with several appliances?That said, I agree that quality of sockets in cheap adapters and extenders can be extremely poor, but this is a different question. Also, I'd rather replace the socket with a double one and added a new one if needed.It's very rate to get an appliance that's faulty in a way that will draw more than 13A. Either the appliance blows, and draws little or nothing, or it shorts out and the fuse blows. It's the awkward case where something draws between 13A and 20A for a long period that is liable to cause melted plugs.That could be, for instance, a washing machine and tumble drier both connected to an extension lead.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.1 -
Ectophile said:Mickey666 said:FreeBear said:Deleted_User said: This lets the plugs 'clear' the worktop where there would otherwise not be enough clearance fot the cords/flexes from the plugs.The people who designed the 13A BS1363 plug never really allowed for multi-way adaptors. The problem with the 13A BS1362 fuse you'll find in a plug is that it takes a substantial overload to blow it. They can pass 20A forever without blowing, by which time the plug may have melted.The original bakelite plugs wouldn't melt, but manufacturers use cheap thermoplastic these days instead.Manufacturers are allowed to sell them because they meet british standards. Or at least look like they do, which is close enough for the importers.I take your point about a 13A fuse passing more current, but not forever only for a time defined by a standard curve, which itself is taken into account in the design and regulations. And if the plug should melt? It won’t catch alight due to being made from fire-retardant plastic and if it allows the wire to touch then the consumer unit fuse/MCB would blow/trip.1
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2 x 6 way strips in a study is no where near comparable to a kettle + toaster in the kitchen.
i'd say the safe limit for "study type appliances" is simply "as many as you can fit in the room" as most of them will be drawing around 1-2A each and it'd be impossible to have all of them draw their max demand current at the same time.
kettles draw 13A, right on the limit of what a plug and socket is designed for, and toasters are not far behind.
by all means use multi plug adapters for these but just be prepared to replace them every couple of years as they burn out1 -
I think, modern British sockets (not the ones is cheap extension leads) are made with a huge margin of safety and can easily handle twice as much as 13A without even getting warm.So, it all depends on the quality of the adapter in the first place.1
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fenwick458 said:2 x 6 way strips in a study is no where near comparable to a kettle + toaster in the kitchen.
i'd say the safe limit for "study type appliances" is simply "as many as you can fit in the room" as most of them will be drawing around 1-2A each and it'd be impossible to have all of them draw their max demand current at the same time.
kettles draw 13A, right on the limit of what a plug and socket is designed for, and toastersHe are not far behind.
by all means use multi plug adapters for these but just be prepared to replace them every couple of years as they burn outO plug it into1 -
Mickey666 said:Ectophile said:Mickey666 said:FreeBear said:Deleted_User said: This lets the plugs 'clear' the worktop where there would otherwise not be enough clearance fot the cords/flexes from the plugs.The people who designed the 13A BS1363 plug never really allowed for multi-way adaptors. The problem with the 13A BS1362 fuse you'll find in a plug is that it takes a substantial overload to blow it. They can pass 20A forever without blowing, by which time the plug may have melted.The original bakelite plugs wouldn't melt, but manufacturers use cheap thermoplastic these days instead.Manufacturers are allowed to sell them because they meet british standards. Or at least look like they do, which is close enough for the importers.I take your point about a 13A fuse passing more current, but not forever only for a time defined by a standard curve, which itself is taken into account in the design and regulations. And if the plug should melt? It won’t catch alight due to being made from fire-retardant plastic and if it allows the wire to touch then the consumer unit fuse/MCB would blow/trip.You might want to look up the time curves for BS1362 fuses. A 13A fuse is not required to blow ever at 20A. It may even take a minute or two to blow at 30A. https://www.pat-testing-training.net/articles/fuse-operation-characteristics.phpThe heat given off in a fuse is proportional to the square of the current, so at 20A, the fuse will give off about 2.4 times as much heat as it is meant to. The plug will get hot enough to melt the plastic. At that point, the user could touch the live pin when grabbing the side of the plug to pull it out. Or on pulling it out, they could find the live pin left behind in the socket.Multiway extension leads are a fact of life these days. I have several of them. But don't expect the magic of British Standards to protect you if you overload them.If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.1
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