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Advice on 2 rooms that need updating.

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Hello.


Over the next 2 weeks my partner and myself we be decorating her parents kitchen and athen the living/lounge room.


Her parents are in their mid 70's and not to mobile so they will be going away for the 2 weeks as we think it would be safer for them.


Lounge room.


They have a 3.5 X 3.5 metre with a bay window. As you go in the dooway you have a wall on your left and the in front you have a chimney breast with an even gap either side. The bay window is on the right and then there is another wall where the door hinges from.
The room has a picture rail going all the way round the room and above that is artex and on the ceiling also.
We will be removing the artex above the picture rail but not on the ceiling and they want to keep the picture rail.


1. We were thinking of making the chimney side a feature wall but would that look stupin with the picture rail on it and on the chimney wall?
2. The want wall paper on the walls but do we paper upto the picture rail and then emmulsion above the rail as it's like that now but with artex there?
3. Do we paper the walls upto the rail and use a different colour above that to the ceiling?


Kitchen.


They have a 2.4 X 2.3 metre kitchen that has 2 x 1000mm wall units and 2 x 500mm wall units and an old base unit that has been there over 40 years.
They want to keep every thing that is there because in 14/16 months time they hope to redo the kitchen and put in an downstairs toilet and extension.


1. We have seen a mate who use DC-fix sticky vinyl on his unit doors and they look very good. The cupboards and doors are ok and are working so has anybody got any feedback on this stuff please.


2. If that is a no go will may have to paint them and again could we have some feedback on that idea also.


3. There are magnolia coloured tiles that go around nearly 2 1/2 walls about 300mm on the worktops and about the sink. The tiles are ok but the grout that was used was grey so would using a tile whitener look ok to make the grout white?


4. If whitener is a no go we would then paint them but after painting them can to still clean then with a scourer or will the paint come off?


5. There is an old hot pipe feed that goes from a disused washing machine outlet to a 3 way t-joint compresion fitting. If i take that off what fitting would i need to cap it off at the t, would a blanking cap screw into where the old 15mm pipe came out off?


6. Last one. They have lono down that has become a trip hazard for the so we said we would take it up and put down laminate flooring. They would need about 6 sm and what type would be needed as i have seen some "waterproof" stuff but that is pricey and also what places would people reccomend please.


So for the long thread.
«1

Comments

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,193 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Use X-Tex on the artex - It will soften it well enough to scrape off. But it will also attack paint, so watch the picture rail.

    My chimney breast is finished in a black polished plaster all the way up to the ceiling and has a picture rail (in white) round it. If you were to remove yours, you'll end up with plaster that needs patching and possibly infill sections on the remaining picture rail (depending on how the joints are scribed/mitered).

    Paper all the way up to the picture rail, then emulsion on the wall above. Do the ceiling as well otherwise the fresh paint will stand out like a sore thumb.



    In the kitchen, you can get a compression end stop fitting to replace the three way block.
    The grout would be best scraped out and new grout applied - If you have a multitool (e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-emt300-qc-300w-electric-multi-tool-220-240v/622fx), you can get grout removal blades which makes the job much easier. Don't bother trying to paint the tiles & grout lines, it will only flake off over time and look even worse.

    Flooring - I used luxury vinyl click-loc tiles in my kitchen. Dead easy to lay and waterproof. A similar area to yourself, and it cost around £300, so not cheap.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • Fire_Fox
    Fire_Fox Posts: 26,026 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 27 August 2019 at 2:29PM
    Boohoo wrote: »
    Hello.

    Over the next 2 weeks my partner and myself we be decorating her parents kitchen and athen the living/lounge room.

    Her parents are in their mid 70's and not to mobile so they will be going away for the 2 weeks as we think it would be safer for them.

    Kitchen.

    They have a 2.4 X 2.3 metre kitchen that has 2 x 1000mm wall units and 2 x 500mm wall units and an old base unit that has been there over 40 years.
    They want to keep every thing that is there because in 14/16 months time they hope to redo the kitchen and put in an downstairs toilet and extension.

    1. We have seen a mate who use DC-fix sticky vinyl on his unit doors and they look very good. The cupboards and doors are ok and are working so has anybody got any feedback on this stuff please.

    2. If that is a no go will may have to paint them and again could we have some feedback on that idea also.

    3. There are magnolia coloured tiles that go around nearly 2 1/2 walls about 300mm on the worktops and about the sink. The tiles are ok but the grout that was used was grey so would using a tile whitener look ok to make the grout white?

    4. If whitener is a no go we would then paint them but after painting them can to still clean then with a scourer or will the paint come off?

    So for the long thread.

    IMO ....

    'Deep clean' and degrease the kitchen, top to bottom, using sugar soap in a spray bottle, microfibre cloths/ flat pad mop, white bathroom scrubby sponge and a toothbrusth or nail brush.

    As you get up close assess the condition of the surfaces, how easy they would be to sand/ prime/ paint/ cover in sticky back plastic. Bear in mind you will have to cover the mouldings, side/ end panels etc. not just the doors (minus hinges and handles).

    Will your mate give you a DC-Fix masterclass for beers and a takeaway? If not there are videos on YouTube.

    Branded grout pen is effective on clean once-white grout, easier to use/ much neater finish than the grout whitener in a tube. Doubt either would work on a true grey grout.

    Paint the tiles with what product? What type of scourer? A strong detergent like sugar soap is more effective than 'elbow grease'.

    HTH. :)
    Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️
  • Boohoo wrote: »
    They have a 2.4 X 2.3 metre kitchen that has 2 x 1000mm wall units and 2 x 500mm wall units and an old base unit that has been there over 40 years.
    They want to keep every thing that is there because in 14/16 months time they hope to redo the kitchen and put in an downstairs toilet and extension.
    Don't do anything now other than deal with the trip hazard. Wait 14/16 months, as anything else you do is going to disappear in the "redo" so there's no point.
    Proud member of the wokerati, though I don't eat tofu.Home is where my books are.Solar PV 5.2kWp system, SE facing, >1% shading, installed March 2019.Mortgage free July 2023
  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    FreeBear wrote: »
    Use X-Tex on the artex - It will soften it well enough to scrape off. But it will also attack paint, so watch the picture rail.

    My chimney breast is finished in a black polished plaster all the way up to the ceiling and has a picture rail (in white) round it. If you were to remove yours, you'll end up with plaster that needs patching and possibly infill sections on the remaining picture rail (depending on how the joints are scribed/mitered).

    Paper all the way up to the picture rail, then emulsion on the wall above. Do the ceiling as well otherwise the fresh paint will stand out like a sore thumb.



    In the kitchen, you can get a compression end stop fitting to replace the three way block.
    The grout would be best scraped out and new grout applied - If you have a multitool (e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-emt300-qc-300w-electric-multi-tool-220-240v/622fx), you can get grout removal blades which makes the job much easier. Don't bother trying to paint the tiles & grout lines, it will only flake off over time and look even worse.

    Flooring - I used luxury vinyl click-loc tiles in my kitchen. Dead easy to lay and waterproof. A similar area to yourself, and it cost around £300, so not cheap.

    Thank you.


    I forgot to mention that i have already got that X-Tex stuff, not cheap, so i will be careful with it.


    They only want white emmulsion on the ceiling and i will do the top of the picture rail the same colour also. It is like that now.


    I know the person next door and their lounge walls(infact all the house walls) wer not to a good standard as the houses were built in about 1941 and a lot of the walls are cinder-block and he made a mistake of taking the picture rail off the walls and a lot of the plaster came off with it.


    I do have a dremmel type tool so i will look into that grout removal tool.


    I will mention the click-loc tiles to them but the flooring will only be down for 14/16 months so they may just want cheap laminate for now.
  • kazwookie
    kazwookie Posts: 14,260 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    If any thing is only going to be for a short time, I would go cheap and cheerful for now, be MSE, don't waste the money, save it for the bigger project in 14 months time.
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  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Fire_Fox wrote: »
    IMO ....

    'Deep clean' and degrease the kitchen, top to bottom, using sugar soap in a spray bottle, microfibre cloths/ flat pad mop, white bathroom scrubby sponge and a toothbrusth or nail brush.

    As you get up close assess the condition of the surfaces, how easy they would be to sand/ prime/ paint/ cover in sticky back plastic. Bear in mind you will have to cover the mouldings, side/ end panels etc. not just the doors (minus hinges and handles).

    Will your mate give you a DC-Fix masterclass for beers and a takeaway? If not there are videos on YouTube.

    Branded grout pen is effective on clean once-white grout, easier to use/ much neater finish than the grout whitener in a tube. Doubt either would work on a true grey grout.

    Paint the tiles with what product? What type of scourer? A strong detergent like sugar soap is more effective than 'elbow grease'.

    HTH. :)

    I have seen some DC-fix utube vids and they make it look easy. The unit doors are flat and the only handle is a lip at the bottom of the door but we were thinking of buying a few cheap handles to spruce it up.


    We were going to deep clean it anyhow.


    As for the tile paint and using a foam scourer i was thinking of when they need to wash the walls/splashback around the cooker if i use tile paint like Ronseal or Wickes. I dont want to do tile paint and the a month later they call me up and say they have scrubbed of the paint.


    Thanks for your reply.
  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Don't do anything now other than deal with the trip hazard. Wait 14/16 months, as anything else you do is going to disappear in the "redo" so there's no point.

    Thank you for your reply.


    They know the score about what will need doing and it's not permanant and as the wallpaper is peeling off in the kitchen they want it done.
  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    kazwookie wrote: »
    If any thing is only going to be for a short time, I would go cheap and cheerful for now, be MSE, don't waste the money, save it for the bigger project in 14 months time.

    That's what they want but they had 2 quotes without their daughter knowing and the lowest quote was just over £3000 for just wallpapering, painting and new flooring.
  • Fire_Fox
    Fire_Fox Posts: 26,026 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 28 August 2019 at 9:21PM
    Boohoo wrote: »
    I have seen some DC-fix utube vids and they make it look easy. The unit doors are flat and the only handle is a lip at the bottom of the door but we were thinking of buying a few cheap handles to spruce it up.

    We were going to deep clean it anyhow.

    As for the tile paint and using a foam scourer i was thinking of when they need to wash the walls/splashback around the cooker if i use tile paint like Ronseal or Wickes. I dont want to do tile paint and the a month later they call me up and say they have scrubbed of the paint.

    Thanks for your reply.

    AFAIK if your preparation is faultless and you use proper tile primer etc. the finish should be reasonably durable. As with any durable paint (kitchen and bathroom, satinwood), do not clean with a metal scourer or green scourer. Only cloths, sponges, a non-stick white scourer only for stuck-on grime.

    With liquid sugar soap (the yellow stuff) you simply do not need to scrub at grease and grime. Spray it on neat or a strong dilution, wash down/ rinse off with fresh water.

    My city centre flat is on a major bus route, the whole road is wall-to-wall bus stops. Diesel exhaust fumes are greasy like nicotine, but grey-black. I have to 'deep clean' walls and window area indoors every year at least, external windows and frame more of course.

    I also 'deep clean' my kitchen, bathroom and cat litter tray with liquid sugar soap. Tiles have no streaks after rinsing, no polishing up. :beer:

    I even washed the LED TV screen once - sugar soap just on the cloth no spray - came up as new got rid of old cat paw prints. :rotfl: Don't try that at home, wet washing a TV screen is plain stupid. :o I was doing housework on autopilot, mind elsewhere.
    Declutterbug-in-progress.⭐️⭐️⭐️ ⭐️⭐️
  • Boohoo
    Boohoo Posts: 1,197 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Fire_Fox wrote: »
    AFAIK if your preparation is faultless and you use proper tile primer etc. the finish should be reasonably durable. As with any durable paint (kitchen and bathroom, satinwood), do not clean with a metal scourer or green scourer. Only cloths, sponges, a non-stick white scourer only for stuck-on grime.

    With liquid sugar soap (the yellow stuff) you simply do not need to scrub at grease and grime. Spray it on neat or a strong dilution, wash down/ rinse off with fresh water.

    My city centre flat is on a major bus route, the whole road is wall-to-wall bus stops. Diesel exhaust fumes are greasy like nicotine, but grey-black. I have to 'deep clean' walls and window area indoors every year at least, external windows and frame more of course.

    I also 'deep clean' my kitchen, bathroom and cat litter tray with liquid sugar soap. Tiles have no streaks after rinsing, no polishing up. :beer:

    I even washed the LED TV screen once - sugar soap just on the cloth no spray - came up as new got rid of old cat paw prints. :rotfl: Don't try that at home, wet washing a TV screen is plain stupid. :o I was doing housework on autopilot, mind elsewhere.


    Thank you for your reply.


    We will have to give the kitchen a deep clean and all the cooker, fridge and washing machine are all free-standing and the wall units will be taken off the wall to either paint or use the DC-Fix sticky vinyl and the only thing that will be staying in situ is the old kitchen sink unit.


    The inlaws have been to most of the diy stores in the past 2 weeks and every time they come back they have picked a different type of wallpaper for the lounge.
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