Fixing on stud walls...help!

buglawton

getmore4less wrote: »

New LCD TV are light* even including the bracket.

Standard fixings are fine unless you are using a bracket with a large cantilever or plan to swing on the TV.

here are some load test for gripit that was mentioned above there are other and the info is available for them.

https://www.planetinsulation.co.uk/Gripit-Loads.php

* 65" will be under 25kg and a bracket less than 10kg

Sounds encouraging for fixing a flat TV straight onto a plasterboard internal stud wall. One issue is that many standard brackets allowing swinging out of the TV on a cantilever even if you don't plan to use that option. But you may need a bit of swing to get the cables installed and for the power plug hidden behind the TV.

BoxerfanUK

As others have mentioned. I use the hollow wall anchors for hollow stud walls and Rigifix for dot 'n' dab into the masonry behind, good results everytime.

We moved house last year from a house with concrete block internal walls with a solid plaster face to dot 'n' dab walls with thermalite type internal block walls. It was a bit of a leaning curve for me too, but hollow wall anchors in the studwork and Rigifix in the dot 'n' dab does the trick for most applications.

The one thing I did struggle with a bit at first was when you want to fit something fairly light to a dot 'n' dab wall but need it to remain fixed.

For example, curtain hold backs. In my house the cavity between the back face of the plasterboard to the blockwork is about 25mm, so fixing something fairly light with a small traditional wallplug is impossible. I found the solution was to use the smallest size hollow wall anchor (designed for hollow stud walls) fitted into the dot 'n' dab wall which just grips the plasterboard and not into the blockwork. If the wall anchor happens to be a tad too long and hits the blockwork behind, as it's thermalite block it's quite soft so you can drill slightly deeper to allow clearance for the back of the wall anchor. Hope that makes sense.