Why is my house cold?

Robin9

Zither wrote: »

. £70 a month on gas (excluding elec) sounds high though??

Is this an actual amount or are you basing this on the DD and/or estimated bills ?

Have you readings from when you moved in 4 months ago and have you been reading your meters and entering them online ?

My MIL is determined that 16 degrees is warm - 1930's semi.

Reading between the lines I think you are trying to use a minimum of perhaps 1 hour when you get up and 3/4 hours in the evening. If so you won't get your house warm.

Zither

magn8p wrote: »

Thermal imaging is used by professional to find serious issues like gas leaks and even in space crafts to see the high friction points, so I am pretty sure it will help figure out your heat loss issue pretty straight away!

Now the question of morality about returning it to Amazon. Yes, it would be little bit cheeky to return it after using it however, you can return it under "I no longer need it" category where Amazon expects you to pay for the return postage but gives you full refund and I don't find anything immoral about it.

All the best.

Haha well if astronauts use it...!

Interesting... I'm very tempted to do this - I'm still not sure I'd be able to interpret what is good and what is bad though - e.g. the edges round a door will be cooler than on the inside of a door. How would I know when blue/cold is too blue/cold? I know what you mean though - it would highlight cold spots.

Maybe I just need to get over myself and give it a go

Zither

Robin9 wrote: »

Is this an actual amount or are you basing this on the DD and/or estimated bills ?

Have you readings from when you moved in 4 months ago and have you been reading your meters and entering them online ?

My MIL is determined that 16 degrees is warm - 1930's semi.

Reading between the lines I think you are trying to use a minimum of perhaps 1 hour when you get up and 3/4 hours in the evening. If so you won't get your house warm.

The £70 figure wasn't from me... it's a little difficult for me to estimate my own amount at the mo as I just changed suppliers and was initially on a first variable contract to a fixed with a new provider (found through MSE! ).

However, just from bills I spent around £110 on gas/elec in the first 3 months. Most of this was electricity (have elec oven,shower).

You're right - I'm trying to use the heating as little as possible though - I barely use it on the mornings aside from weekends and maybe have it on for 1.5h in the evening at the mo.

Chickereeeee

Floors can have a BIG efect on how a room feels. Suspended floors (should) have a good draft blowing under them, which is freezing in the winter. Even if there ar no draughts from around the skirting board, conduction through the floor can make it feel cold low down. Underfloor insulation is the solution here.

If the floors are solid (and not recent - modern solid floors have insulation built-in when constructed) then it is conduction to the groubd and thermal inertia that causes the problem. A large concrete slab would take ages to warm up, even if not resting on the ground.

The easiest solution here is to to put down extra thick (and special purpose) underlay. Not sure what the solution is if it is tiled....

C

sevenhills

Zither wrote: »

However, just from bills I spent around £110 on gas/elec in the first 3 months. Most of this was electricity (have elec oven,shower).

For 3 months, that is very low, I live in a 2 bedroom house, but live on my own, and use more than you. I have solar panels and I am a right skinflint

Robin9

As an experiment - read your meter now ! (and submit it online)

Then run your heating for a week with your programmer timed at say 0600 - 0900 and 1600 - 2200 and your thermostat at 20 degrees. See if is warm enough or too warm. Read your meter daily at the same time, work out the cost.

Zither

Chickereeeee wrote: »

Floors can have a BIG efect on how a room feels. Suspended floors (should) have a good draft blowing under them, which is freezing in the winter. Even if there ar no draughts from around the skirting board, conduction through the floor can make it feel cold low down. Underfloor insulation is the solution here.

If the floors are solid (and not recent - modern solid floors have insulation built-in when constructed) then it is conduction to the groubd and thermal inertia that causes the problem. A large concrete slab would take ages to warm up, even if not resting on the ground.

The easiest solution here is to to put down extra thick (and special purpose) underlay. Not sure what the solution is if it is tiled....

C

Yes thats a good idea. The carpets already have underlay down. but I'm not sure it's special type. Does it cost much to have someone lift carpets and put underlay down?

Agree on tiles. I think the best I can do it just put a large thick rug down. Maybe pick up one from an auction. One of those persian-style ones...

Zither

sevenhills wrote: »

For 3 months, that is very low, I live in a 2 bedroom house, but live on my own, and use more than you. I have solar panels and I am a right skinflint

Haha you don't come from Yorkshire like me do you?? I think Yorkshire people are born with the skinflint gene!

It seems low but remember it was over the summer months - so less heating, lighting, hot food and so on... I was thinking it was actually quite high for the summer months! I also live alone at the mo so was thinking it was far too high!

I'd love to get solar panels installed but I guess there's a long return on investment period and quite a high capital cost??

shortcrust

sevenhills wrote: »

I am guessing that you don't spend that much on energy? How many bedrooms, a 2 bed house will take over £70 per month to keep warm.
How much is your energy bill?

My 2 bed end terrace with non cavity walls costs £30 a month to keep warm averaged over the year.

Stating the obvious but warm and cold are subjective. My sister's always cold and I have to crank the heating up when she visits. For me, keeping the thermostat at 18 keeps the place feeling warm.

Zither

Robin9 wrote: »

As an experiment - read your meter now ! (and submit it online)

Then run your heating for a week with your programmer timed at say 0600 - 0900 and 1600 - 2200 and your thermostat at 20 degrees. See if is warm enough or too warm. Read your meter daily at the same time, work out the cost.

That's a sensible approach. Haha it's hard putting it on in the morning though when you know you're only going to be in the house until 7:30 before I head out to work.

I actually took a gas meter reading on Friday night when I got in. Since then I've used 3 units of gas (xxx48 > xxx51) had heating on for 1h on Friday night, 1h yesterday morning, probably 2h yesterday PM and approx 1h this morning so far...)