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Corrosion on brake discs
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Those areas of corrosion look like rust ridges to me. That can be removed, with a scraper and some coarse Emery paper, ensuring that you leave a flat surface with no ridge left behind. If you don't remove it and/or leave it flat, but just change the pads, you will leave a ridged area which will file away the surface of the pads and you will drastically reduce the life of the new pads.
When a garage tells you something is worn and needs changing, always, if you can, tell them to leave it until you can see the wear/damage for yourself. The best garage I ever used, actually sent me a video of my discs and pads by email, with a commentary by the technician. I wish I had been able to use something like that when I was a workshop foreman! Unfortunately I changed the Ford I used to have, for a Hyundai this year.I think this job really needs
a much bigger hammer.
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Has anybody suggested actually measuring the thickness of the discs?
I was advised that I would need front pads soon when I got my car MoT'd recently. I checked the thickness of the discs and they were down to 0.2mm from minimum. While I was at it, I checked the rears too.
I now have a pile of discs and pads to fit this weekend.0 -
There are two faces to a brake disc. You've took pictures of the outside face. The inside disc faces are more inclined to suffer deterioration for many a reason.
I'm not saying you need them replacing for sure, and at £300 I would definitely be saying no, because that is way over the top.0 -
As an owner of a Hyundai that's under 3 years old, I hope you won't regret making that decision!
I am very fortunate to be a Motability customer with a spinal injury. The Tucson is the best choice for me regarding entry and exit from the car, and comfort. I love it, but which Hyundai do you have, and what problems have made you say that? Interested to know, I am vrey grateful for Motability but the dealership is over 20 miles away and I would be lost without a car in our rural village.
The Hyundai dealership was extremely good to my wife and myself. I was allowed to take a brand new demo Tucson out on road test alone, and told to "...bring it back when you are happy." Never had that before, and I have been with Motability since 1995.I think this job really needs
a much bigger hammer.
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"The inside disc faces are more inclined to suffer deterioration for many a reason." ?
Give one of the many reasons.0 -
"The inside disc faces are more inclined to suffer deterioration for many a reason." ?
Give one of the many reasons.
I've got one..... Debris and/or damp getting trapped between the disc and the dust shield, or even the dust shield getting bent and scoring the disc :cool:“I may not agree with you, but I will defend to the death your right to make an a** of yourself.”
<><><><><><><><><<><><><><><><><><><><><><> Don't forget to like and subscribe \/ \/ \/0 -
golddustmedia wrote: »I find most garages want to change brake discs unnecessarily.
2. Easy to convince innocent customer that it is essential (woo, scary, brake failure).
3. Customer wiling to pay over the odds as it's safety-critical.
4. Ker-ching.
OP, don't worry too much about those discs. They look quite normal to me. The pads will keep the braking area clean with use, and rust anywhere else isn't an issue. Discs always go rusty, and surface rust is cleaned off with the first application of the brake. It may sound a bit rough for the first couple of stops. The time to think about changing is when the mechanic says to you 'the wear limit on your discs is 7mm and they are down to 7.3mm' (i.e. he gives a specific reason to change), or if you see a crack developing. Discs with light scoring (like yours) are fine, as the pads will wear to conform to the ridges and hollows on the disc.
However, with a Haynes manual and a few basic tools, you could probably change them yourself and save lots of money.If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.0 -
It seems to me that the garage is only giving advice. The OP is free to take it,ignore it or get a 2nd opinion. Either way, to me they look serviceable but not ideal. The thing with rear discs is that they do suffer a lot. We used to have drum braked cars but they didnt look sexy so manufs started putting discs on the rear too. Ive just had rear discs and pads replaced using good quality pagid discs. If a garage is quoting for work then ensure they quote prices for different brands.I know the parts cost around£90 .you can then add on maybe 1.5 to 2 hours labour. Most garages charge areound £45/£50 per hour labour. There was a time when i would have done this mayself but really, i cant be bothered now,,oh by the way you often need a caliper wind back tool for diy,,add another tenner for that. Mine were flagged twice on MOT ,,they only last for so long,,no point in putting new bads on scored/ridged discs,
By the way, if you went to your dentist and he said,,oh dear you need a filling,,,that will be £60,,will you suggest he was ripping you off,post pics of your molars on a forum,seek a second opinion and a discount?Feudal Britain needs land reform. 70% of the land is "owned" by 1 % of the population and at least 50% is unregistered (inherited by landed gentry). Thats why your slave box costs so much..0 -
C_Mababejive wrote: »By the way, if you went to your dentist and he said,,oh dear you need a filling,,,that will be £60,,will you suggest he was ripping you off,post pics of your molars on a forum,seek a second opinion and a discount?If someone is nice to you but rude to the waiter, they are not a nice person.0
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