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Roof eaves membrane - is this much overhang normal?
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Ithaca
Posts: 269 Forumite

We've just had our old Finlock concrete gutters replaced and as part of the work the contractors fitted a new layer of roofing membrane over the plastic eaves trays and under the first couple of rows of tiles. The membrane extends into the gutter to such an extent that when the wind picks up it lifts the membrane over the edge of the gutter.
Photos to show what I mean:
Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4
Couple of quick questions:
1) Is this normal for this type of installation? I assumed that as there are plastic eaves trays to seal the gap between gutter and fascia [see Pic 3] the membrane does not need to extend past the last row of tiles?
2) My concern is that in high winds the rain could slide right over the membrane and miss the gutter completely. Is that likely or will the weight of the water push the membrane back down into the gutter?
3) I'm tempted to trim the membrane back in line with the bottom edge of the tiles - does that create a risk that water could be blown back up into the roof space?
At the moment it all looks a bit odd as you can see the fabric flapping in the wind from the garden, but if it's going to keep things more watertight I'll live with it.
Advice would be welcome!
Photos to show what I mean:
Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4
Couple of quick questions:
1) Is this normal for this type of installation? I assumed that as there are plastic eaves trays to seal the gap between gutter and fascia [see Pic 3] the membrane does not need to extend past the last row of tiles?
2) My concern is that in high winds the rain could slide right over the membrane and miss the gutter completely. Is that likely or will the weight of the water push the membrane back down into the gutter?
3) I'm tempted to trim the membrane back in line with the bottom edge of the tiles - does that create a risk that water could be blown back up into the roof space?
At the moment it all looks a bit odd as you can see the fabric flapping in the wind from the garden, but if it's going to keep things more watertight I'll live with it.
Advice would be welcome!
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Comments
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That does not look right at all, I thought the membrane beneath the tiles was to act as a barrier and channel any water that got through into the gutter? The plastic trays should be adequate enough without that additional membrane, shouldn't they?
Maybe the roofer hasn't finished trimming it?0 -
That does not look right at all, I thought the membrane beneath the tiles was to act as a barrier and channel any water that got through into the gutter? The plastic trays should be adequate enough without that additional membrane, shouldn't they?
Maybe the roofer hasn't finished trimming it?
It's not a big job for me to trim it back but need to confirm approach before the scaffolding goes (after which it becomes much trickier).0 -
We've just had our old Finlock concrete gutters replaced and as part of the work the contractors fitted a new layer of roofing membrane over the plastic eaves trays and under the first couple of rows of tiles. The membrane extends into the gutter to such an extent that when the wind picks up it lifts the membrane over the edge of the gutter.
Photos to show what I mean:
Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4
Couple of quick questions:
1) Is this normal for this type of installation? I assumed that as there are plastic eaves trays to seal the gap between gutter and fascia [see Pic 3] the membrane does not need to extend past the last row of tiles?
2) My concern is that in high winds the rain could slide right over the membrane and miss the gutter completely. Is that likely or will the weight of the water push the membrane back down into the gutter?
3) I'm tempted to trim the membrane back in line with the bottom edge of the tiles - does that create a risk that water could be blown back up into the roof space?
At the moment it all looks a bit odd as you can see the fabric flapping in the wind from the garden, but if it's going to keep things more watertight I'll live with it.
Advice would be welcome!
1- 'ish... bit of sloppiness it seems, questioning membrane top edge being UNDER old (most likely felt) or god forbid above?
2- no, unless in stormy weather, but it is not critical, low probability;
yes, most likely, but it is beside the point. With time that membrane becomes warn and block the flow in gutters, Combination of dirt and this membrane will end up being a problem.
3- yes, it'll be quick (slow walking pace) job.
Whilst you got your membrane, scaffolding there (do not use pressure washer) but hard builders broom and slow water hose to brush of dirt from tiles would be recommended job to have done0 -
I am not a roofer but I would trim that fabric back to the tile edge; it doesn't need to channel to the gutter because those plastic trays do that. I can't see any reason for it to be as it is. And I agree, trimming that off from ladders is hugely trickier than off a scaffold!0
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Also, (looking at the pictures again), I've noticed they are those nasty cement tiles and roofer perhaps wasn't that sloppy, but thought of being helpful, as normal rain water doesn't gush down at the pitch is, but follows the shape- back on that type of tile under side.
Final advice would be to trim it, so that the membrane, once in the gutter, would be an inch above the bottom. No shorter, no longer.0 -
IMHO the bottom row of tiles is not far enough down anyway, the bottom nib is resting on the eaves trays which means it is only just protruding far enough into the guttering and probably explains why the tiles are kicking up all over the place! Overhang should be 30 to 50mm into guttering so that rainwater DOES NOT rely on plastic or membrane to fall directly into guttering. Anyway - that's a different story.
Membrane should fall into the gutter about 20mm from the bottom. Do not reply on eaves trays to direct water into the gutter - they are to support the membrane.
HTH
RussPerfection takes time: don't expect miracles in a day0 -
Thanks for the responses - we have some wet weather forecast for the new couple of days so I will ask to keep the scaffolding up for another week or so and see how the gutters cope with some rain. Then I'll get up there and trim the membrane back so it's 2cm or so above the bottom of the gutter and see how that goes.0
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IMHO the bottom row of tiles is not far enough down anyway, the bottom nib is resting on the eaves trays which means it is only just protruding far enough into the guttering and probably explains why the tiles are kicking up all over the place!
Russ
Tiles 1
Tiles 2
Tiles 3
I think a couple have been replaced with almost-but-not-quite equivalents - are those sort of gaps too large to live with? Feels like wind-driven rain could quite easily get blown in those gaps?0 -
In general the photos could be used as a perfect example of how not to do roofing. From the misaligned tiles, to the kicked up tiles, to the incorrect eaves with no tile overhang, to the membrane left in the gutter, to the missing birdstops, and the icing on the cake ... the state of the valley. It all leaves me at a loss for words.
Clearly OP has confidence in these "roofers" because they have been invited to do work on the home. Do not part with any money until everything has been checked out
A deeply worrying set of photos, and I wonder what else is wrong that us folks on the forum cannot see, and hence cannot comment on.0 -
Just to clarify, what these roofers (gutter fitters) doneWe've just had our old Finlock concrete gutters replaced and as part of the work the contractors fitted a new layer of roofing membrane over the plastic eaves trays and under the first couple of rows of tiles. The membrane extends into the gutter to such an extent that when the wind picks up it lifts the membrane over the edge of the gutter.
Photos to show what I mean:
Pic 1 | Pic 2 | Pic 3 | Pic 4
As it comes to the tiling etc, they have touched it, but it was not ever properly done as other say.
Kinda "opening a can of worms", as per most construction jobs or just be sensible and put stop to involvement as long as everything would function OK0
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