£125 Electricity bill pcm. Small 2 bed house 1 person :(

edited 27 February 2017 at 2:21PM in Energy
59 replies 4.6K views


  • Morning Cashstrapped

    As you say it's not a significant difference
    I'm intrigued now though

    I think my calls are 12 months and yours are 13
  • Dannii75Dannii75 Forumite
    105 Posts
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    I've just emailed the FU customer service department and included photos of the meter & my app input!
    Am waiting a reply! I hope to update you soon! Thank you :)
  • Dannii75Dannii75 Forumite
    105 Posts
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    I've just printed my actual bill out for Jan to Feb this year & the calculations seem to be correct, sadly.

    01/ Night Rate Opening read 85847 Closing read 86744 897kWh @0.06846 = £61.41
    01/ Day Rate Opening read 91341 Closing read 91486 145 kWh @0.13792 = £20.00
    Total bill for this period £81.41

    I think the customer service chap who gave me the breakdown in post #12 must have just written day & night the wrong way around!

    Am I correct? :(

  • edited 28 February 2017 at 4:58PM
    CashStrappedCashStrapped Forumite
    1.3K Posts
    edited 28 February 2017 at 4:58PM
    It looks like they may indeed be correct. That is the majority of use on the night rate as it should be.....Oh well.

    Time to get comparing and see if you can save via that method.....

    Regardless, although a re-address of the bill would have been nice, at least it is the right way round. Furthermore your night rate really is excellent. For Jan-Feb it was 86%. Many people struggle to get above 60%.

    What is the current tariff name.?

    I can see the unit rates are Day: 13.792p per kwh, Night: 6.846p per kwh.

    Now you have more information about your annual use, night rate percentage. Compare and see if any savings are to be made on your tariff.
  • Dannii75Dannii75 Forumite
    105 Posts
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    As I feared!
    I use as little electricity as I can because I'm scared of my bills so I'm not surprised the usage is 86% at night.

    Thanks for your advice.

    My tariff is First Fixed July 2017 online only economy 7.
    As much as I'd like a better tariff I'm in £190 of debit with FU, which I assume I'd have to pay back if I leave :(
  • edited 28 February 2017 at 6:34PM
    CashStrappedCashStrapped Forumite
    1.3K Posts
    edited 28 February 2017 at 6:34PM
    A quick check (for my area) shows that until July at least, this is a pretty competitive tariff.

    You use is not that high (or obscene in any way), your night is very good and your tariff is competitive. You day use is also pretty low.

    The only scope for reduction is more efficient use of your night use.

    Regarding the hot water. I assume you have a hot water tank with immersion heater. One way to reduce use is to turn down the immersion thermostat. Very easy to do.

    If your hot water comes out very hot (too hot) and you have to add cold..... it is set too high. Turning down the immersion temperature to around 50-55 degrees will reduce energy cost. You don't want to go any lower for health reasons.


    Only watch 10 seconds worth as the video is about something else. You can see how the cover is removed (after the electrics have been turned off!). There is a temperature dial. Turning that down to 50-55 should help. It may be in Fahrenheit if it is old, which would be around 137.

    Also ensure the tank itself has a well fitted insulation jacket.

    I note that you said you only use 2 of the 5 storage heaters.

    Remember the input controls how much electricity is used. The higher it is set, the more heat it stores and the more electricity is used.

    The output controls how quickly it is released. The output should generally be left at the lowest setting and only turned up for a short burst of heat. It should always be on the lowest setting at night while it charges.

    Other than insulating other areas, you may be hitting the minimum required energy to live comfortably.

    Also, remember you still need ventilation. Lack of proper consistent heating (in an attempt to save money) and doing things like drying clothes inside (again, to save money) is a recipe for damp and mould.
  • Dannii75Dannii75 Forumite
    105 Posts
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    Thanks for the sage advice Cashstrapped! All very valid points. I'm definitely guilty of drying my clothes in the hallway & don't have many windows open as it's already so cold!

    Yes, indeed, my hot water boiler is a 'ye olde' number! It's huge, about 5ft tall & wider than me! It's got a double skin but I'll buy some insulation & wrap it up!
    There's no thermostat on it! I can take a pic to show you if you like. It's quite the monster & the water is at "burn your skin off" temperature! :(

    My storage rads are always on a low setting! They're just so inefficient!
    I have the output at 1 but by the time I'm back from work they have almost no heat left in them!

    I have uPvc windows BUT they're only single-glazed! Who does that?! Do you think it would be an idea to run some sealant around them?
    Can't think what else I can do!
  • edited 28 February 2017 at 6:00PM
    CashStrappedCashStrapped Forumite
    1.3K Posts
    edited 28 February 2017 at 6:00PM
    There will be a thermostat somewhere. The double skin insulation is probably very good already so no extra is probably needed. As long as it is not a bare copper tank.

    If you look for a brand/model number I can work out where the thermostat is for you. If not, a photo will help.

    Single glazed upvc was a common a long while back. It was one of these quick fix ideas that councils had. Cheaper than double glazing and no maintenance of wood.

    It is best to dry clothes in an isolated room with an open window if you must do it inside.
  • Dannii75Dannii75 Forumite
    105 Posts
    Seventh Anniversary Combo Breaker
    All I can't find is a sticker that says "Backer type 311c"
    It's actually taller than me & has an uninsulated top tank.
    I've taken pics, see what you think. The pics are of the stick out things, not sure what they do!
    https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/h3kT39

    Ah, the single glazing makes sense now, it's an ex council house.
    Will dry my clothes in the bathroom from now on, door closed but window open!

    Thanks! :)
  • edited 28 February 2017 at 7:18PM
    CashStrappedCashStrapped Forumite
    1.3K Posts
    edited 28 February 2017 at 7:18PM
    Brilliant - The silver circular thing with the white wire going into it is the immersion element housing. They are normally located near the bottom.

    You should ensure the power is off to the sockets/hot water tank at the main fuseboard/consumer unit. Have a torch to hand if you want to turn everything off.

    Unscrew that metal cover (just like in the video I posted). Inside there should be a little dial that you can turn with a flat head screwdriver. It will have an arrow pointing to the current set temperature.

    It will probably be in Fahrenheit, so you want to set it at around 135 degrees or 55 degrees in Celsius. Screw the cover back on....job done.

    The uninsulated top part is the header tank with cold water. It needs no insulation. It is similar to having a tank in a loft.

    When the main tank is full of hot water, if the sides feel warm or hot, then it may be worth getting a jacket. It looks to have a decent layer of insulation though.

    edit: Crikey - I have just gone over 1000 posts.....
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