seized toe adjuster nut

facade

Tarambor wrote: »

What are these tools that seemingly defy the laws of physics?

Look up induction hardening of gearteeth. Uses the Laws of Physics to heat the outside of the gear, not the centre.

It would work for a nut, and heat the outside to expand the nut. Quite a good idea really, you want to heat the nut not the bolt so it expands and comes loose, then whip it off quick and gets some wd- 40 or something to the bolt to cool it.

Can't say I've seen an induction heater applied to nuts, but it doesn't mean they aren't out there.

facade

Doh!

Exactly what I thought, and probably what was referred to

http://www.bolt-buster.co.uk/#1

Should have googled it first!

Euphoria1z

facade wrote: »

Do you have to hold pressure on the wheel to drive straight (which means something is bent), or is it just turned off centre? (which means someone was lazy when they adjusted the tracking)

no pressure needed, its not pulling to the right.


when costing it goes straight, when speeding up it goes to the right, much more obvious on motorway.


I think ill leave it for the moment. ill keep an eye out for uneven tyre wear.

Euphoria1z

z1a wrote: »

Rear left toe is 0.02 degrees and rear right is 0.07 degrees (needs to be between 0.02 and 0.07 so both mines are now outside tolerance).

Surely that's within tolerance!

well it was red on the hunter print out. I think it needs to be in between the 2 numbers rather than on it.

Euphoria1z

I had my alignment done from this same garage last year (feb 16) and there was no problem with the nut, after 11 months its seized. what would cause it to seize anyway?

forgotmyname

facade wrote: »

Doh!

Exactly what I thought, and probably what was referred to

http://www.bolt-buster.co.uk/#1

Should have googled it first!

Exactly, draper and a few others do one also. You can get different sized coils and apply heat to one side only.

I found when when having a tinker with induction heaters, another midnight ebay purchase when i thought that looks interesting.

Coil is cold yet the item inside gets red hot, and it gets hot in seconds so you can cook the nut to cherry red and cool before the heat spreads to the plastic parts.

Or as mentioned nut splitters or even drilling the nuts.

EdGasket

Euphoria1z wrote: »

I had my alignment done from this same garage last year (feb 16) and there was no problem with the nut, after 11 months its seized. what would cause it to seize anyway?

Maybe they overtightened it and damaged the threads. Is the nut one you can stick an air hammer on?

Joe_Horner

Euphoria1z wrote: »

no pressure needed, its not pulling to the right.


when costing it goes straight, when speeding up it goes to the right, much more obvious on motorway.


I think ill leave it for the moment. ill keep an eye out for uneven tyre wear.

That sounds more like a front n/s wishbone bush going soft. When you put power on, the n/s wheel will turn in and steer the car right.

Euphoria1z

Joe_Horner wrote: »

That sounds more like a front n/s wishbone bush going soft. When you put power on, the n/s wheel will turn in and steer the car right.

if it is the wishbone gone, is it better to change both sides or only the worn side?


Thanks

forgotmyname

Just the worn wishbone, brakes, springs, shocks should be changed in axle sets.