Grounds for rejecting a car

marks87

In July I bought a nearly new (reg'd March) car from a well-known chain dealer (2-words, second rhymes with spark).

After a week or so I started noticing a few relatively minor but irritating issues - vibration from the dash, vibration from the driver-side door (which stopped when I put my elbow on it) and, what I think is more serious, a sound of running liquid from the passenger-side when I reach 2k revs.

So far, it's been back to the dealer three times -- first time they basically did nothing because they apparently couldn't hear any of the noises. Second time they supposedly fixed the vibration from the door, but again couldn't hear any of the other noises. At this point I went on a road test with the garage manager, where thankfully the dash vibration and the liquid sound were audible.

So back in it went and this time I got a courtesy car - although that was slightly weird because instead of a proper hire car, it turned out it was the garage manager's company car (bizarre).

After a few days I got a phone call to say that all the vibrations had been fixed, but try as they might they couldn't find the source of the liquid noise. But they acknowledge it's not normal, and so will consult the manufacturer to see if it's been found elsewhere. This could take from a few days, to a few months! I was assured the noise isn't detrimental to the running of the car, so I agreed to take it back and bring it in again as and when.

However, this morning, the door vibration has returned. I'm now also noticing a rattle from the boot, as if the false floor isn't fitting properly (I've never heard this before).

In all, the issues seem relatively minor but stack up into one huge annoyance. So I'm wondering if any of this amounts to reasons for rejection? The liquid noise notwithstanding, there appears to be nothing mechanically wrong, but at the same time it only had delivery mileage on the clock, so I'd expect the overall build to still be in decent nick.

I do otherwise like the car - it drives well and is basically perfect in terms of the type I was looking for. I'd be more than happy to drive away a replacement if they can order one in (after road testing it). So it's not as if I'd be going in demanding my money back - well, ripping-up of the PCP contract.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

m0bov

Given you have offered them reasonable chance to fix, I would either:-
Contact them and ask for another car/refund
Offer them one last chance on the basis if they can't fix all the issues you will get a refund/replacement.

I would suggest doing everything in writing, AC have a terrible reputation on here!

m0bov

P.S I would also CC in the PCP company as well.

BeenThroughItAll

I bet the 'liquid noise' is refrigerant in the AC system. Does it change if the AC is turned on/off?


If it is the refrigerant, it's possible it's low on pressure for some reason, so get them to regas it.

marks87

m0bov wrote: »

Given you have offered them reasonable chance to fix, I would either:-
Contact them and ask for another car/refund
Offer them one last chance on the basis if they can't fix all the issues you will get a refund/replacement.

I would suggest doing everything in writing, AC have a terrible reputation on here!

Thanks.

Should I contact them now, or wait until they get in touch again re the liquid noise?

BeenThroughItAll wrote: »

I bet the 'liquid noise' is refrigerant in the AC system. Does it change if the AC is turned on/off?

It's happens regardless if the AC is on or off.

They tried bleeding the radiator in case it was air pockets in the coolant, but no luck. I've seen it suggested on a car forum that it could be water collecting in the door drains, which are clogged by poorly-applied paint protection. But that wouldn't explain why it only happens at 2k revs precisely.

Although if it is water collecting in the door drains, that doesn't bode well for future rust issues...

marks87

I phoned the garage manager again and he said they could have another look at the door, but he's struggling to think of things that could actually be causing it.

I expressed my view the, the liquid sound notwithstanding, I've now had problems fixed twice and gone wrong again twice, and that I'm now seriously considering rejecting the car. But I emphasised that I'd be happy to exchange instead of a straight-up return.

However, that's something I need to discuss with the general manager who is on holiday until next Tuesday. So there's a message waiting for him to call me to discuss my options.

It's likely, though, that I'll have to put a rejection in writing and go from there. But it would be nice for things to be fairly amicable, i.e. arranging a new car instead of me simply turning up with the keys, V5 and the rejection letter.

marks87

Last Thursday I gave the general manager a call, who hadn't received any message to call me...

That brushed aside, he asked me to send an email listing all the faults and all the dates the car was in for repair. He then basically went into "no comment" mode until he'd had a chance to read the list I sent. So I sent it as I hung up the phone.

I'm still waiting to hear back nearly a week later. How long should I give it before phoning again? It surely shouldn't take this long to speak to the service manager to establish what repairs have been attempted, and what else could possibly be done as a remedy?

foxy-stoat

Liquid is probably coolant being pumped around the heater matrix behind the dash. What car is it, maybe its a common issue with other owners or a missing piece of sound deadening material.

The vibrations/rattles shouldnt be a reason to reject a nearly new car, but they shouldnt be there though but it may be a poorly put together car - BMW or Audi ?

Herzlos

marks87 wrote: »

Last Thursday I gave the general manager a call, who hadn't received any message to call me...

That brushed aside, he asked me to send an email listing all the faults and all the dates the car was in for repair. He then basically went into "no comment" mode until he'd had a chance to read the list I sent. So I sent it as I hung up the phone.

I'm still waiting to hear back nearly a week later. How long should I give it before phoning again? It surely shouldn't take this long to speak to the service manager to establish what repairs have been attempted, and what else could possibly be done as a remedy?

I'd have given him a day or 2 and then chased up; you want this addressed quickly whilst they want to drag their feet.
I you don't feel you're getting a satisfactory result from the branch manager, then take it up to their headquarters.

Unfortunately, with car dealers, the only way I've seen for them to actually get stuff sorted is when you spot their shoulders sag when they see you want into the showroom again. Once it's more work to fob you off than fix it, it'll get fixed

maninthestreet

Are drain holes in the bottom of the door blocked up?

marks87

maninthestreet wrote: »

Are drain holes in the bottom of the door blocked up?

I've seen that suggested elsewhere, but they're not. It's definitely something to do with the mechanics of the car.

I had an update email from the general manager who says they're still waiting for an update from the manufacturer.

Actually, I don't know I'm being cloak and dagger about the car itself! It's a Renault Captur. And so it's Renault they're waiting to hear from - which as I said can take anything from days to weeks to months.