Toyota Corolla Power Issue

AdrianC

MrRipley wrote: »

I'll look into changing from 5w 30 to 5w 40. To start using this new oil I'd imagine that a mechanic will need to do this as part of an oil change service?

Yep, when the oil's changed, you just put the thicker (or, rather, not-thinner) oil in.

Or, given how rapidly it seems to be burning it, you could just start topping up.

MrRipley

Alt
It drives well on mostly flat roads, accelerates well, on motorways can reach 90mph quite easily. It struggles on hills though.
I see what you're saying re EML limp mode, I don't think that it's in it though, the one occasion where I think it was in limp mode was 2 weeks after buying it, it wouldn't go above 40mph and really struggled, that's when the mechanic changed the no3 ignition coil due to misfiring.
I don't know if this will help, but on each occasion when the ignition coils were replaced, the EML light came back on again on the way home.
Would a faulty sensor possibly cause this?

AdrianC

MrRipley wrote: »

I don't know if this will help, but on each occasion when the ignition coils were replaced, the EML light came back on again on the way home.

One component that you would probably benefit from changing is the mechanic.

MrRipley

AdrianC

So when I top up the oil on Tuesday, I can just start using 5w 40?

Just changed to a new garage of motor engineers, who I'm pleased with, they replaced front brakes and pads, then a week later had it MOT'd only needing a lightbulb so I don't feel they're trying to con me. I'll admit I didn't get them to check the EML last week as I just wanted the car to pass.
I'm going to book it in for this asap though.

When looking at OBD2 readers there, an advertised product was Cataclean, has anyone used this before?

EdGasket

MrRipley wrote: »

When looking at OBD2 readers there, an advertised product was Cataclean, has anyone used this before?

Yes used it on a Honda Civic with P0420 code (cat converter below efficiency). It passed the MoT but that was probably more to the Italian tune up just before than the Cataclean but who knows. It didn't stop the code appearing or the MIL light coming on. It's not going to help your car as you don't have an emissions problem do you?

MrRipley

EdGasket

I've ordered an OBD2 reader so will post what readings I get.

The reason that I mentioned Cataclean isn't so much about emissions, as it passed its emissions test for its MOT a week ago.

But that both AdrianC and facade suspect that with all the oil it burns (around 4 litres per week) that the cat will gradually become very blocked up, which can lead to loss of power which I'm experiencing with the car.

For £15 worth I'll give it a go on a quarter of a tank, to see if it helps with performance, worth a try anyway.

facade

In 15 months, call it 60 weeks with holidays, you have done 21000 miles and burned 240 litres of oil?
Works out at 90 miles per litre: even a mini cooper does better than that.

Sounds like the bores are worn out and that is another reason to be down on power.
What can happen is, with the teeny weenie little sumps engines have nowadays, a previous owner has run it until the oil light comes on a few times, which really accelerates engine wear.

I wouldn't waste money on cataclean tbh, I'd be looking for another car whilst this one is still running.

rich13348

Piston rings are sprung rings that go around the piston. They are compressed when the piston is inserted into the bore the rings then spring out to give a good seal against the bore.
Like any metal to metal surfaces if there is not enough lubricant then one will start to wear down the other and if any bits of dirt get in the oil helps to wash that away too the bits of dirt then get caught by the filter.
If the bits of dirt do not get washed away they can get stuck in between the piston ring and bore and scratch the bore to hell.

rich13348

As you say, regular oil and filter change don't let oil drop below minimum level and definitely don't let it run dry.

facade

I was suggesting that at less than 100 miles per litre, it must be bore wear if it is burning it, valve seals don't use that much.

I know several people who have been surprised by how quickly a mini can go from full of oil to oil light on, and my brother got caught once with a Toyota Celica that had the oil light disconnected, (most likely as it was glowing at tickover due to running dry a few times) and seized up with not a drop on the dipstick- but they only hold 3 1/2 litres in the first place.

They easily run dry between services, then the owners drive to a garage to buy some oil with the light on.........