Why don't the lights work when I they blow and I replace the with new bulbs?

cashmonger

I rent an apartment and in this place for some reason whenever a bulb blows I can't get a new bulb to work in the socket that blew.

I know the new bulbs are good because I tried both with one of the other working bulbs and with a brand new bulb.

I usually don't bother to replace them for the overhead lights since they are way too bright anyway and I never use them but the last working light over my cooker blew the other day with a small explosion. I bought a new bulb yesterday and it did nothing. When it blew it also shorted out the cooking wide electrics which I tripped the switch back and was fine.

Anyone know what is going on? I am loath to call in my estate agents when I dont have to simply because I prefer sorting my own issues however I dont see what I could do in this case.

Interested to hear theories as to why this happens tho that the sockets seems to 'bust' whenever a light blows.

HappyMJ

I'd be calling in the landlord. If they are too bright then buy less powerful bulbs. There's no need to buy bright ones.

Ectophile

Are they low-voltage 12V ones? If so, then it may be that the transformer has blown. It will most likely be tucked up in the ceiling somewhere.

marlot

cashmonger wrote: »

...
Interested to hear theories as to why this happens tho that the sockets seems to 'bust' whenever a light blows.

When they blow, they temporarily short out, triggering the ELCB/RCD

fezster

marlot wrote: »

When they blow, they temporarily short out, triggering the ELCB/RCD

cashmonger wrote: »

When it blew it also shorted out the cooking wide electrics which I tripped the switch back and was fine.

Looks like OP knows how to reset the fusebox.

OP, as said above, take a look at the kinds of bulbs you are putting in, and you can then determine if they are low voltage 12V which require a transformer. If the transformer goes, changing just the bulb will not work.

However, if they are 240V mains voltage and are then not working when replaced, this is extremely worrying, as it means the wiring is being damaged - possibly melting. This should immediately be reported to your landlord so that they can take appropriate remedial action, as this could be dangerous.

SquirrelSmall

I had similar - my cooker hood bulb exploded and shorted the electrics in the kitchen. It wasn't just a question of resetting at the fuse box - I also needed to replace the actual physical fuse in the wall panel. (NB - wall panel located separate to the fuse box).

Don't think I've ever lived in a flat that goes through lightbulbs so frequently...

Risteard

fezster wrote: »

if they are low voltage 12V

Extra-low voltage actually - probably SELV.

fezster wrote:

if they are 240V mains voltage

Mains voltage (which is low voltage) is actually 230V.

Really the OP should be involving an Electrician (obviously in concert with their landlord).

fezster

Risteard wrote: »

Mains voltage (which is low voltage) is actually 230V.

When it comes to consumer lighting terminology, 230V/240V is definitely not low voltage. Besides, the point of the remark was whether it involved a transformer in between the mains circuit or not.

ohreally

Mains is low voltage.

Ebe_Scrooge

ohreally wrote: »

Mains is low voltage.

In what context ? 230v is low voltage compared to the 430 volts you'll get in a 3-phase setup, or compared to the 400Kv that is used to distribute power over the national grid. But it's still enough to give you an extremely painful jolt, or worse. In normal domestic situations, the term "low-voltage" is usually used to mean 12v lighting applications, and it implies that the voltage will not hurt you ( yes, I know that strictly speaking, it's voltage combined with current that's dangerous, but let's not split hairs )

Financallychallenged

Is it the light in the cooker hood that has gone? Similar problem. When the bulb blew it shorted, and burnt out, the printed circuit board on the switch is mounted, hence new bulbs do not work. Almost as cheap to buy new cooker hood as printed circuit board.