Orange ABS light on dash

arcon5

Is it safe to drive.. well it isn't necessarily unsafe, not all cars even have ABS. However the fault was pre-existing and he failed to notify you of this material information that could affect whether you decide to buy the vehicle or not... there are consumer protection laws for this.

Ask him to fix it, or you'll be returning the car for a refund

angelboy

Mines in right now having the ABS control module looked at as that's the reason it failed its MOT. If it can be reprogrammed it'll be £500 all in and if not then it's a new one which will be £1000. My motor is off road for 2 weeks while they send away the part.

Get the dealer to fix it, he knows he's sold you a lemon!

Richard53

jcb208 wrote: »

The ABS light is always orange when lit and means there is a fault and the system is disabled.You need to get the dealer to fix this and make sure he does not just remove the bulb.

The ABS light must come on (self test) when the ignition is turned on, and go out afterwards (might be after a few seconds or a few yards driven, I have known both). So if you get it 'fixed' by the dealer, make sure the light illuminates when you switch the ignition on, and then goes out. If he has just removed the bulb, it won't come on at all. That would be an MoT failure, same as if the light was on all the time.

aeroblade

baza52 wrote: »

its a 53 plate Astra if anyone's interested.

The amount of posters who start a thread asking for help but FAIL to actually state the make and model of their car truly amazes me. Such a key piece of information they always miss out on!!

Well done OP, about time someone uses their brain.

baza52

Richard53 wrote: »

The ABS light must come on (self test) when the ignition is turned on, and go out afterwards (might be after a few seconds or a few yards driven, I have known both). So if you get it 'fixed' by the dealer, make sure the light illuminates when you switch the ignition on, and then goes out. If he has just removed the bulb, it won't come on at all. That would be an MoT failure, same as if the light was on all the time.

good call, I was planning on setting all the screws that secure the dash in the same position to see if they had been removed. If they had I was going to get the ecu read by a different garage to make sure.


Didn't think of the easy way to check the bulb was still present and working. Thanks

parking_question_chap

Might just be the sensor on one of the wheels. That would be about £70 to replace including labour.

colino

While it may well be an abs fault, some cars, especially Vauxhalls, are notorious for triggering them if a battery is even slightly low: Say for example a car straight off a car lot and only driven a couple of miles.

mcpitman

parking_question_chap wrote: »

Might just be the sensor on one of the wheels. That would be about £70 to replace including labour.

Agree with this, Vauxhall's have a common fault, particularly on the offside front wheel and normally triggered by putting the car on full lock. If it's anything like the Insignia's process will be as follows...

About £40 for a new sensor and a 5 minute job to change yourself. You don't even have to remove the wheel.

Jack car up, place wheel on full lock.
Locate ABS sensor (alos known as speed sensor) in the back of the wheel hub and unscrew (t20 torx I think, but may be t25).
Trace cable back to just under inner arch lining (normally clipped along wishbone).
Unplug old cable from car loom.
Refit is reverse of removal.
Igniton on, codes should dissapear (or you should be able to clear them), if stored or still showing, get the codes cleared by someone with a code reader (OBD diagnostic).

arcon5

In theory it's a 5 minute job! But in reality the sensors often seize in the hub or snap when trying to work them... in which case what you yourself may deem a quick job turns in to a bigger job you are not prepared for --- IE then having to knock out the lower arm, the track rod end and hoping the axle pulls out of the hub with ease! Just to knock it out the other end of the knuckle. And anybody that's actually worked on cars will know, the lower arm is a nightmare if you can't just unbolt the ball joint (many are rivets), then the track rod end can be a pain to get back on.

As for doing it with the wheel on... we don't all have the frame of a todler and able to squeeze in to the wheel arch.

Point being it's all well and good reading your haynes manual, actually doing it is a whole other story. Something worth remembering before putting people on to DIYing their cars.

baza52

Tried calling the dealer today but no answer so planned to visit or call in the morning.


Just popped to the shop and noticed the ABS light was NOT on.
Started the car a couple of times and the light now comes on then goes out just like it should.


Hmmm still not happy with the car.
Will make taking it back a lot harder now.


Thanks for all your replies.