clutch problems

Lisa_Atkinson

Hi there I am hoping there is someone on here that can shed a little light. We have a 2006 Audi a3 2.0ltr tDi last Friday they clutch pedal was intermittently sticking to the floor husband checked the fluid level when parked went to Press the clutch and it had gone stiff tried to push it down again and a plastic rod snapped so that's his master cylinder knackered.

Cut a long story short we only bought the car privatly a couple of weeks ago so bit the bulllet and got it in the garage to change the master and slave cylinders dmf and new clutch kit as no history of it ever bei g replaced. Went to collect from garage yesterday to not even get out the yard and the clutch is sticking again Like bbefore . Husband was showN the parts replaced so doesn't doubt they have been done. The mechanic says the only other thing it could be is the accumilator?? husband never heard of this and we vs r searched forums and can't find anything relating to it anywhere.? Does anyone has any idea what this accumilator does and would that affect the clutch pedal?

Any advice much appreciated

Thanks

esmerobbo

An accumulator stops you dumping the clutch, to avoid undue strain on the transmission. It restricts the flow of fluid so it could be at fault if it is not allowing the fluid to return.

utopia_11

Out of interest, before you bought the car did you test drive it? Did you notice the clutch beginning to stick before buying?


I have the same car (140PS variant) and the clutch and DMF (even though no signs of DMF failure, purely preventative) has only been changed once at 125k by the Audi dealership. Nearly on 200k, mostly city driving and its still going strong, with no signs of sticking.


If you have the 170PS version, please make sure it has had the recall for injectors. There are many reported issues with injector failure with the 170ps TDI of that generation.


These cars also eat through turbos if not properly maintained, so if you hear a low howling sound or a whistle sort of sound, there's a good chance your turbo will fail soon. Change your oil using longlife oil every 6 months and you'll be fine. I'm still on my original turbo, testament to its vigorous oil changing regime since new.




What is the mileage of your car and what is the service history like?

Strider590

esmerobbo wrote: »

An accumulator stops you dumping the clutch, to avoid undue strain on the transmission. It restricts the flow of fluid so it could be at fault if it is not allowing the fluid to return.

So basically the accumilator confirms that Audi know their customers can't drive for !!!!!!.

:rotfl:

Lisa_Atkinson

Thanks for the replies. Yes the car was driven and there was nothing to suspect any issues with the clutch and we have been driving it for a month now with no issues the clutch sticking was all of a sudden. Service history is good with alm receipts precious Owner had a good few main dealer services and had it 5 years and it was well looked after. We changed the clutch and everything associated with it due to its mileage at 120k so we had peace of mind.

Hoping this accumilator sorts it as not sure what else it could be as everything has been changed.

It's the 140 So don't think it's covered under the injector recal but thanks for the heads up with the turbo I had heard they are a bit troublesome.

do you know if its a common thing to be replaced this accumilator?

Thanks again

Strider590

Lisa_Atkinson wrote: »

do you know if its a common thing to be replaced this accumilator?

Not sure, but i've heard it can be bypassed so that clutch behaves like a proper clutch.

facade

Lisa_Atkinson wrote: »

Hoping this accumilator sorts it as not sure what else it could be as everything has been changed.

I once had trouble with a front brake sticking on, and it eventually turned out to be the flexible hydraulic hose, something had detached inside and there was a partial blockage (or something was suck inside, anyway, you couldn't blow through it)

Maybe something similar?

Marktheshark

If thats the case, then the clutch and dmf and master cylinder were not required.
Ouch.

Lisa_Atkinson

Car is back and feels fine. The accumilator has been replaced and upon driving feels a lot smoother so looks like this could have been the culprit. The guy we bought it off live up an almost vertical road so the strain the clutch must have been under each day for 5 years the clutch did bloody well to get to 120k Miles.

We got the whole lot done as the master we knew had broken when the pedal froze and snapped so rather than have the cost of all the Labour again if the clutch slave or dmf failed at a later date we bit the bullet and when we looked at the old clutch they had taken off there wasn't many miles left in it.

Fingers crossed its been sorted. Listening and feeling out for every slightest thing though lol

Thanks for all the replies.

arcon5

The masters not usually in the bell housing anyway so wouldn't be like paying twice.

Frankly i'd be playing mary hell, they've misdiagnosed a fault that could have seen many more miles out of expensive components.

You're a garages dream.

harveybobbles

arcon5 wrote: »

The masters not usually in the bell housing anyway so wouldn't be like paying twice.

Frankly i'd be playing mary hell, they've misdiagnosed a fault that could have seen many more miles out of expensive components.

You're a garages dream.

To be fair, it sounds as though the OP diagnosed the cylinder and thought that while they were having work done on the transmission it would be a good idea to get the DMF/clutch done.