New motherboard help needed

Vejovis

Vejovis wrote: »

Yes, we checked that, and they were all connected properly



Yes it worked fine before. I will check the standoffs as this motherboard is a lot bigger than the last, so maybe there aren't enough.

Nope, checked those and he's put extra in, and the board is not touching any metal on the case.

Vejovis

enfield_freddy wrote: »

umm , green light on board = psu working (basic working)

Sorry maybe I've got the wrong names. According to the video the guy suggested using a paper clip on the pins where you'd put the power switch cables, and see if the fans started up when you made the connection.

enfield_freddy

yes , you can unplug the PSU and short two pins together th check the psu fires up ,


however I think you mean to test the on/off on the case


yup just touch the two pins using a screwdriver , for a second , should fire up ,

barry_the_bear

I'd start with the minimum number of components needed to get the system to POST and work from there.


I think all versions of the i3 include onboard graphics so you can take the graphics card out temporarily (don't forget to connect you monitor to a socket on the motherboard).


You shouldn't need the HDD connected to get to the bios screen.


Also if it's a refurbished board it's possible that the previous owner has messed around overclocking components and the settings are incompatible with your hardware - have a look in the manual and see how to reset the bios settings.

poppellerant

Vejovis wrote: »

Sorry maybe I've got the wrong names. According to the video the guy suggested using a paper clip on the pins where you'd put the power switch cables, and see if the fans started up when you made the connection.

It sounds like a test for the power switch. Myself, I use a flat blade screwdriver to short the two pins on the motherboard where the power switch connects to. As long as you don't stray on the motherboard, you'll be fine.

If you want to test the PSU, then that involves unplugging the 20+4 pin plug from the motherboard then shorting pin 16 to 17 with the paperclip. But it's best to have a load on the powersupply when doing this, such as a harddrive and a few fans. This way you can see and hear them starting up. More information here, but pay attention to the colours of the wires.

Do you have access to a multimeter? If so, test the PSU's voltages. They should be within 5% of their specified value.

3.3v (orange): 3.14 - 3.47v
5.0v (red): 4.76 - 5.25v
12.0v (yellow): 11.43 - 12.60v

enfield_freddy

the OP hasn,t actually said where the board came from


I bought 3 asus h81 boards on ebay from VIP ltd , they were supposed to be manufacturers recons , and came without the backplate or CD , the price was right , £14.00 each in p+p


2 of the boards are faulty , (so much for factory recon) ,one has a faulty lan chip/socket , the other has no USB 2 ,


as it happens , they are being used for other projects , but I did get a paypal refund and was told to keep the boards

Vejovis

The board actually came from the States.

We bit the bullet and took the board back out of the tower, and the PSU out, and tested it with just the PSU attached and one stick of RAM. But again nothing at all.

enfield_freddy

ahh , the 110v motherboard (ok joking!)


the problem now , is it a faulty board or CPU?

enfield_freddy

please tell us the number of the CPU


important!

enfield_freddy

the board is a 1155 board , what model is your CPU