Stud Walls: Are Resilient Bars Worth It?

Furts

Davesnave wrote: »

I can't find these 4 accepted methods, but in any event, we will be putting sound insulation material into the stud walls.

I may be wrong, but have tended to avoid the accepted sound quilts, of typically 25mm. When fixed in stud walls I do not believe these will be effective - they may slump, or the fixing be suspect, or they are not always well cut or bent around. Standard loft insulation can work out cheaper. When stuffed in it is less likely to move, or slump, and can give the same, or better density. Basically we are talking 100-170 roof insulation versus 25 sound deadening quilt.

This may be my quirk - over to you on this.

lostinrates

Davesnave wrote: »

I was hoping Doozer might see this, but if not I'll PM her later.

I can't remember the layout of your house, which is probably on my dead computer, but I'm glad the insulation worked for you.

We have the heavy, blue plasterboard. I think that, with good rigid framing, will probably be fine.

It's just my builder has sourced these bars....and I can see more down-sides with them than without.

Look'em up again...still available. . ( I didn't mean that angry face....although I do wish they'd take them down I find it very useful at times for looking up things myself!)

Davesnave

Belenus wrote: »

Have you considered building solid internal walls?

Probably more expensive but will give an overall more satisfactory result.

I have, but it would be more expensive, and the materials are already on-site. My builder also has a good discount on wood and is very competent in carpentry, so there are a number of factors pushing me this way.

I'm also not a great fan of aerated blocks and I think anything heavier would need foundations.

Furts, we'll see how the sound quilting behaves when we do the first wall. We have only a few rolls of that. Lots of the other stuff available, as I'm renewing all the loft insulation.

Furts

Davesnave wrote: »

Furts, we'll see how the sound quilting behaves when we do the first wall. We have only a few rolls of that. Lots of the other stuff available, as I'm renewing all the loft insulation.

Of course, this would depend on the thickness of your sound quilting, but most people buy and install the cheapest which is 25mm. I am not a fan of this as you will have gathered!

Davesnave

Furts wrote: »

Of course, this would depend on the thickness of your sound quilting, but most people buy and install the cheapest which is 25mm. I am not a fan of this as you will have gathered!

I think it's ordinary Knauf insulation, but anyway it's 100mm, so not much room for slumping!

brightontraveller

Furts wrote: »

When I last checked the NHBC Requirements, there were four accepted methods detailed, none of these had resiliant bars. Whilst NHBC state that other methods can be adopted I have followed these four - it is straight forward and there is proof of compliance.

NHBC is that New Houses Built Crap or No Houses Built Correctly never been quite sure



Resilient bars are more for impact noise which is reduced buy detachment , audible tend to use varying densities to break up the sound waves as they travel through them although a single heavy density such as lead works extremely well its often to expensive and impractical to use

Have tried many methods soundproof plasters, foams, soundlbock boards etc

Best buy long way was following

Stud wall (if fixing to existing floor and joist of floor above fix studs with dampeners) fill between studs with Soundproof slabs e.g. Rockwool ProRox SL960 (Formerly RW5) Slab etc min 100 mm is best (wouldn’t use the roll stuff is sags and doesn’t appear to work as well)

On each side of Studwork /wall

Fix Resilient bars,
Single sheet of sound block board gyproc Lafarge etc,
Next layer Closed cell foam 20mm (or more) overlapping sound block board (you can buy plasterboard with this already fixed to it but more expensive)

Another layer of sound block board fixed using Green Glue NOISEPROOFING COMPOUND very good stuff
Plastered skim of *Gyproc Soundcoat Plus (*this is a type of plaster not a board very good on brickwork but many don’t even know it exists) this can go between any layers of plasterboard straight on too brick work its creates a airproof seal over entire wall

Sealing around edges of each layer with intumescent acoustic mastic like ac 95 from everbuild (quite important to do this you’d be amazed at the difference not doing so makes)

[FONT=&quot]have done this works very very well it isn’t cheap though [/FONT]Gyproc Soundcoat Plus and plasterboard on there own works well if budget it tight

jc808

is that green glue stuff good then? does it really get warm when subjected to noise?

i know its used a lot in america

Davesnave

Brightontraveller, your post was really helpful, though if you say that resilient bars are mostly effective for impact noise, then they'd not be especially important to us. My main concern about them, expressed in my first post, was that the bars would be comprimised as soon as anyone fixed items by screwing through the wall into the studs.....and knowing us, we'd be doing that.

Put it another way, is it worth spending £180 on something that will just be a pain to sustain, and probably not necessary, as we're detached and none of us plays loud music/practices the drums?

brightontraveller wrote: »

Stud wall (if fixing to existing floor and joist of floor above fix studs with dampeners) fill between studs with Soundproof slabs e.g. Rockwool ProRox SL960 (Formerly RW5) Slab etc min 100 mm is best (wouldn’t use the roll stuff is sags and doesn’t appear to work as well)

The above was also helpful, but I'm not sure what dampeners are needed.

I can see that someone else has asked about green glue, and I know where to source that, if its effective.

brightontraveller

Yes compromised if you screw through to stud below but if you plan it a little all that’s going on wall lights shelves etc there fine you know the spacing ?Could say if you cant do so whats the chances of you fitting the others correctly ?

You can get lots of vibration dampners some in sheet form, rubber matting etc placed between timbers before bieng screwed together, under etc , multitude of types

http://www.avindustrialproducts.co.uk/products.htm

We've bought vibro S and cut it up but as I said there are plenty
http://www.avindustrialproducts.co.uk/documents/Page%2047.%20Rubber-Sheets-Matts.pdf

Walking closing door etc in another room will send shockwaves along floor/wall into walls if you happy to hear them walking but not talking or vice versa remove inappropriate but I’ve found its both people want to remove airborne and impact? But don’t distinguish between them with sound every little bit helps

Is green glue good ?compared to what though as not found anything else like it I can say when we’ve had rooms tested before and after that it has made a difference to room passing or not ? Unfortunately Sound reduction is about lowering levels for both impact and airborne and it’s the combination that makes the reduction effective no one item I’ve found effectively works

E.g. Rockwall 2db green glue 2db resilient 2db plasterboard 2 db dampener remove one add another based on cost initially but you also have limitations loss of room size weight restrictions, fitting cost etc impact against airborne most want the room to be quite but don’t think there more than one type of sound ?


£180 but it last years or you could for the next ten years just listen to them walking about ? When weve done conversions or renovation, I'll say most in London were prices are silly and buildings were not designed to live in originally both airborne and impact all around a spent fortunes on so called experts that most of the time are just there to sell there own product ) its “this will stop all airborne but what about them going up stairs walking above next room etc oh you’ll need another product for that and we only do x “

Davesnave

Thank you for the extra info, brightontraveller. The links you've provided are very useful.

Ours is a bungalow with solid floors, so I think reducing impact noise is much less of an issue for us than for people in flats and similar situations. It's airborne noise we'd prefer to suppress, as there's a possibility we could do B&B at a future date.

We'll be starting on a less important cloakroom/office wall, so we'll see how that goes and do a bit of evaluation before moving on to the bedroom / bedroom walls.

Thanks again to everyone who contributed.