We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Fan belt / Cambelt ?
Options
Comments
-
This sounds decidedly dodgy - you can't just change a single - ALL valves need to be ground in properly - avoid this dealer in future !
So we've got two completely separate and relatively minor failures on a 9yo car, both of which have been dealt with. OK, so they've both had to have a second crack at resolution, but even so, I think we're being a bit premature with the NFFP angle, tbh.
I wouldn't be taking it back to the dealer for maintenance once the warranty has expired, though. That's for sure!0 -
Slowly_does_it.. wrote: »Sounds to me like it was the fan belt on both occasions.
From the sounds of it, the engine did not go bang and you stopped straight away in the middle of the road, more the lights came on and you pulled over to stop?
Get another mechanic to have a look at it, you might have a bearing going somewhere on the fan belt, water pump / alternator / tensioner something like that is not working as it should. Then again, it could have just been a bad belt that was put on two weeks ago!
Thanks, yes I think so now. Still 300 quid down and an unreliable car to boot.0 -
Taking the OP's level of technical knowledge (forgive me, OP, but I don't think you'll disagree!) into account and running a Chinese Whisper-removal filter over it all, it's far more likely to be EGR valve or some similar component than an actual intake/exhaust valve.
Thank u, and no probs, my knowledge is limited for sure.
The engine would start but then rattle and stall out, the battery would also drain quickly. Initially I thought it was a new alternator, but again knowledge limited.0 -
Taking the OP's level of technical knowledge (forgive me, OP, but I don't think you'll disagree!) into account and running a Chinese Whisper-removal filter over it all, it's far more likely to be EGR valve or some similar component than an actual intake/exhaust valve.
So we've got two completely separate and relatively minor failures on a 9yo car, both of which have been dealt with. OK, so they've both had to have a second crack at resolution, but even so, I think we're being a bit premature with the NFFP angle, tbh.
I wouldn't be taking it back to the dealer for maintenance once the warranty has expired, though. That's for sure!
It's the timing of it all. If I'd had 6-8 weeks no problems I'd be ok with it, but it's literally every two -three weeks he's had it back.
No defo not taking it back. Just pure luck I was on my own when the belt failed, just the previous day I was driving down south with a car full of kids and belongings. If it had failed then, then I'm in the hard shoulder with three young kids.
My primary concern is that it's not reliable enough for what I need it for which is long but infrequent journeys. Warranty expires in few weeks, I think the dealer will then say 'not my problem' and in stuck with a car that's going to cost more than the value0 -
My primary concern is that it's not reliable enough for what I need it for which is long but infrequent journeys.
Get it to somewhere reputable for a bloody good check-over and thorough service. Get all the fault codes read.0 -
It's a 9yo car. What are realistic expectations? Well, it's new enough to be complex and electronic, old enough for a lot of components to be reaching end-of-life. Add in some apparent cost-cutting maintenance (belt snapping, cheap tyres), and there's certainly going to be an expectation of gremlins and minor issues. But it should be fundamentally reliable once that's all worked out.
Get it to somewhere reputable for a bloody good check-over and thorough service. Get all the fault codes read.
But should this not be worked out prior to sale?
I appreciate yes not brand new, but I think the 'fit for purpose' stance is that it should do what a car should do. It wasn't sold as, needing maintenance. Fundamentally I think is where it shouldn't go wrong. Sure it might need to discs at some point, new tyres. But these aren't problems that developed since I bought the car, they were there when sold.
Sure some minor gremlins, like the radio buttons stick, etc. minor inconveniences. This is a very expensive inconvenience.0 -
But should this not be worked out prior to sale?
And this is where you get into the whole SOGA grey-area saga.
If problems occur, the supplier has the right to repair them.
IF he cannot, or if they persist unreasonably, you have the right for a refund.
Right now, you are experiencing minor maintenance issues, and they are being sorted.But these aren't problems that developed since I bought the car, they were there when sold.
When you bought the car, it ran smoothly and the belt was intact...? Is it reasonable for a trader to give a very thorough service and spot every single potential issue in what is, frankly, a real low-end-trade used car? It was, what, £1,500 or less? He's probably got a couple of hundred quid margin in it at most. Right now, he's probably making a loss on it after resolving these issues.0 -
How long did the garage take to repair 'the cambelt' after the first STOP - if it really was the cambelt after breaking - realistically the garage would need the car for at least a week to strip the engine, order new parts and rebuild it - and that's a good garage - this garage sounds anything but.
In terms of 'fit for purpose' the problem is that unless the garage replaces everything with brand new stuff it's impossible to know whether a fan belt will snap in a weeks time or last for years. If there were issues like radio buttons sticking - test before buying and insist they are fixed or buy another car instead.0 -
-
05 Renault scenic 1.6-1.8-2.0 16v petrol? rattle and stalls when cold? sounds like a bag of spanners until warm? lacking power? poor idle?
sounds like a dephaser cam pully issue to me.
Water pump is cambelt driven so driving it with a snapped aux drive belt wont harm it a great deal.
dephaser cam £150 to buy, cam belt kit £50-60 to buy -water pump £35.00 labor £250-£300 (due to the extra work in loosening the cams off rocker cover removal etc).
if the aux belt is slipping off, it the roller tensioner, can be bought from a good motorfactors, cost is approx. £25.00 plus dreaded.
if the alternator has an issue with charging, (they are clutched type ones on these) it can be expensive to buy one so have it tested when the garage takes it in may need a new battery. if the alternator pully spins too fast the clutch in the pully will stop the alternator pully this can result in belt snapping! so may also be your cause of the aux belt snapping.0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 351.1K Banking & Borrowing
- 253.2K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.7K Spending & Discounts
- 244.1K Work, Benefits & Business
- 599.2K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 177K Life & Family
- 257.5K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards