oiling wood worktops

andrewf75

Just had ours installed. The builder said they didn't need to be oiled before installation. I've since found out they should have been really.

We'll oil them where we can get to, but how big an issue is this?

DigForVictory

You can't sink the whole timber into a vat of linseed overnight. A pity, but that opportunity sounds to be now lost.

Instead, apply it in layers where you can get to it & see if you can't get a discount off the builder to prevent you formally complaining? (or at the least 10L of Linseed oil to enable you to get a start on the job - they get it at trade rates, you may not.)

(We've an oiled table, and sand it back every now & again & reoil it. Very satisfying.)

andyhop

Builder is wrong

Worktops come with a basic seal. Should be coated twice with a decent quality oil. Osmo top oil is about the best available and after a few coats will need no further treatment for a few years

Underside, back and sides are often forgoton about. Just as important as the the top as moisture can cause the worktops to buckle and swell

SteveV2

I used to work for a wooden worktop company. They advised many coats, all sides and edges. It strengthens the worktop so if you only do the top, it could 'curl'.

andrewf75

Thanks, not too happy about this, but will oil everywhere I can get too - which is most of it to be fair and hopefully they will last more than a few years.

hc25036

Don't think the risk of buckling is exaggerated - we have a kitchen trolley with a 2 inch thick beech shelf that buckled because the bottom surface wasn't oiled

andrewf75

Thanks, I'm going to oil the bits I can reach as best I can and hope for the best.

DirectDebacle

Before you do ask the builder to return and re-install the worktops properly. With all due respect you won't be able to protect them sufficiently by oiling them in situ. As has been mentioned by others top and bottom faces plus all four edges need to be properly oiled. In addition so do the edges made by cut outs for sink/hob etc.

Your builder should have known this. No different to sealing cut edges of a laminate worktop. I hope you haven't paid him in full yet.

scottishblondie

andrewf75 wrote: »

Thanks, I'm going to oil the bits I can reach as best I can and hope for the best.

I would be asking the builder to come back and rectify his clear error!

andrewf75

DirectDebacle wrote: »

Before you do ask the builder to return and re-install the worktops properly. With all due respect you won't be able to protect them sufficiently by oiling them in situ. As has been mentioned by others top and bottom faces plus all four edges need to be properly oiled. In addition so do the edges made by cut outs for sink/hob etc.

Your builder should have known this. No different to sealing cut edges of a laminate worktop. I hope you haven't paid him in full yet.

Trouble is we asked him about oiling and he said we don't need to until they're in. We made the error of not insisting on this and so have to take responsibility. He isn't someone who cuts corners and the workmanship has been first class, a specialist joiner was also involved for the worktops.
Would rather make do and replace them in a couple of years if they don't last than kick up a fuss. He's still finishing off other things so want to keep on good terms.

SternMusik

Another vote for Osmo top oil. It's fantastic.

The worktops should have been oiled before installation. Mine were given one coat (including underside and all edges) before they went in, and then another two coats once fitted. My installer used Danish oil which I find awful. I have since re-oiled with the Osmo stuff and am very, very happy with my worktops.