Battle of the weeds

DaftyDuck

Indeed! Especially since you won't need access across the boundary. Pliers and either a bucket, or jamjars, depending on scale. Bruise leaves/crush stem a bit for maximum effect, then wait. Cue maniacal laughter.... Bwah ha ha ha.

moneyistooshorttomention

I am inclined to think that leaving down some thick weedproof barrier entirely covering the ground concerned would do the job and organically too. I've got some problem ground here that I intend to treat with that as part of it.

I've been told that someone treated a large patch of Japanese Knotweed by cutting it right right down (ie to about an 1" or 2" high and with absolutely no leaves at all left on it).


They said they repeated this treatment at intervals over a couple of years and the JK got progressively weaker (never having been allowed the chance to have any leaves to photosynthesise "food" for itself) and a couple of years later they were growing food on the site. Now if that sort of treatment can work for JK, then I'm guessing a variant of it would work for less troublesome weeds.

Stage 1 - chop down to 1" or so height and no leaves at all left.

Stage 2 - put on a layer of this thick weedproof membrane.

Stage 3 - leave for several months for the weedproof membrane to do the job.

Stage 4 - dig up what's left.

That's my personal plan certainly, as someone who has only ever used chemical weedkiller once and that's a totally different story.;)

Only wish ground elder, docks, nettles were the weeds concerned here, as I could use them. But its brambles (that somehow have awful tasting berries on them) and bindweed and that type of rough grass that grows at a rate of knots that I'm contending with.

lostinrates

We tried weed barrier. Its not a methods I'm keen on. My fork finds it every time.

Eenymeeny

I've been told that someone treated a large patch of Japanese Knotweed by cutting it right right down (ie to about an 1" or 2" high and with absolutely no leaves at all left on it).


They said they repeated this treatment at intervals over a couple of years and the JK got progressively weaker (never having been allowed the chance to have any leaves to photosynthesise "food" for itself) and a couple of years later they were growing food on the site. Now if that sort of treatment can work for JK, then I'm guessing a variant of it would work for less troublesome weeds.

I've been doing this with marestail in gravel and I have to say that it's a lot less than it was. I just pull it out as soon as it 'puts it's head above the parapet' As Bob Flowerdew says: 'if you keep hacking the top off, everything will die eventually.' (I tried glyphosate but watching it grow while waiting for the weedkiller to take effect was too much for me!:o)

DaftyDuck

Marestail is pretty gloyphosate resistant at best, and there a reports of truly-resistant forms now. It's partly because it's such a primitive plant. Physical removal over time is probably the best. It certainly is persistent.

Eenymeeny

DaftyDuck wrote: »

Marestail is pretty gloyphosate resistant at best, and there a reports of truly-resistant forms now. It's partly because it's such a primitive plant. Physical removal over time is probably the best. It certainly is persistent.

A quick walk around the surrounding area confirms that! Apparently if you drop bits while removing it they can root as well. I'm very careful to remove as much as I possibly can, putting it in the 'green bin' for collection. (Which is why I'd be very wary of buying compost from our council:eek:)
Now I just have to get rid of the Helexine soleiroili (baby's tears) which is taking over the borders in the back garden. Any tips would be gratefully received. (Sorry to hijack thread OP:o)

DaftyDuck

Helexine soleiroili is very shallow-rooted, and prone to dry out very quickly. You can get a spade under a clump and just lift it, or hoe in dry weather. It will succumb to glyphosate as well. Raking lawns regularly helps keep it at bay. It can thrive in a compost heap. I know the latter from experience... hence one of my beds is plastered with the danm thing.

But, it does go from persistence, and a hot summer is a good time to start.

DaftyDuck

lostinrates wrote: »

We tried weed barrier. Its not a methods I'm keen on. My fork finds it every time.

That's fork barrier - you are using it wrong. You've put it in upside-down!

peter_the_piper

Glyphosate, dilute to taste, use paintbrush to administer on bramble and/or woollen glove over a rubbler kitchen blove, dipped into liquid and grasp the weed and pull over the plant. This way you get the weed but not the good plants.

Davesnave

peter_the_piper wrote: »

....or woollen glove over a rubbler kitchen blove.....

PS .....Don't forget to take it off again before using Internet.