Tiling over plasterboard

JustSteph

Ok, so we've just tiled around a shower over bath directly onto plasterboard using wickes ready mixed adhesive. We've been told that the adhesive might not dry properly because the water in the adhesive will seep into the plasterboard and make it damp, but we've also been told that it will dry, it will just take longer. Who do I believe? Should we just wait a bit longer before grouting and using the shower or should we have used some sort of primer on the wall before tiling? Tiles are 33x25cm ceramic.

We also have a 70x33cm hole in the wall where the pipes for the shower were put in. We've used ready-mixed patching plaster to fill it in, can we tile directly on to that? Tiles are 33x25cm porcelain.

Thanks!
Steph

hebridean

For what it's worth i also used ready mixed adhesive(Dunlop) and it was fine though too thick and hard to apply directly to the plasterboard, but i would wait a couple of days to see how it is before grouting. Though it should be fine, and i would never use ready mixed tile adhesive again.
Regarding the gap you filled in. I cannot really say as i don't know if it has anything against it, though if not i would advise that the tiles you are covering it with have at least a 50% grounding on the clean plasterboard. Also when using this ready mixed adhesive make sure that you use it liberally as soaking into the plasterboard is bonding as far as i'm concerned.

andyhop

Those tiles are too heavy and large for premixed adhesive. Your adhesive works on dispersion and uses air to set . The outer edges will have set and the middle will be like the stuff left in the tub

Powdered cement based should have been used, works on a chemical reaction

cyclonebri1

andyhop wrote: »

Those tiles are too heavy and large for premixed adhesive. Your adhesive works on dispersion and uses air to set . The outer edges will have set and the middle will be like the stuff left in the tub

Powdered cement based should have been used, works on a chemical reaction

Sorry, but quite likely wrong. Readymix will work provided it is given time.


OP, your post is a little vague, you talk about 2 types of tiles, both the same size but 1 porcelain and 1 ceramic???

I don't get you.

Also. You say you are tiling onto plasterboard?, raw or skimmed?, makes a great difference to the load that can be supported, hence my point.

andyhop

Each to there own,I know what I would use and I don't have issues or problems down the line with any of our installs

southcoastrgi

andy is right on the addy, however if it's a shower area then you shouldn't have plasterboard anyway, grout isn't waterproof & the plasterboard will get wet & the tiles will fall off, you should have used waterproof boarding ie backer board, any of the sheds own brand addy's are crap & it should be bagged addy for natural stone, plus any plasterboard or bare plaster must be sealed with an acrylic primer (not pva)

have you got sealer for the natural stone tiles ?

all this sounds like it's going to be an expensive lesson for you sadly

andyhop

southcoastrgi wrote: »

andy is right on the addy, however if it's a shower area then you shouldn't have plasterboard anyway, grout isn't waterproof & the plasterboard will get wet & the tiles will fall off, you should have used waterproof boarding ie backer board, any of the sheds own brand addy's are crap & it should be bagged addy for natural stone, plus any plasterboard or bare plaster must be sealed with an acrylic primer (not pva)

have you got sealer for the natural stone tiles ?

all this sounds like it's going to be an expensive lesson for you sadly

Plasterboard and tanking, easier, quicker and cheaper to install then wedi and cement based boards such as Hardi

Common practice everywhere but the UK to tank, for the small cost £50 for a roll of homelux or dura plus a bag of cement based adhesive I still can't believe people skimp or take a risk doing without

southcoastrgi

yes that's another way but if you are fixing plasterboard it's just as easy to use the right stuff

I not sure it's skimping or taking a risk, I think it's lack of knowledge or the wrong info from some spotty oike stacking shelves, lesson learnt the hard way when the tiles fall on your feet or water runs through the ceiling downstairs

cyclonebri1

andyhop wrote: »

Each to there own,I know what I would use and I don't have issues or problems down the line with any of our installs

Andy, I meant you could use readymix, I wouldn't and I wouldn't advice anyone else to but he did ask "can you?", ;), or rather he already has, so a case of so far it's still on the walls, :D

Stooby2

southcoastrgi wrote: »

andy is right on the addy, however if it's a shower area then you shouldn't have plasterboard anyway, grout isn't waterproof & the plasterboard will get wet & the tiles will fall off, you should have used waterproof boarding ie backer board, any of the sheds own brand addy's are crap & it should be bagged addy for natural stone, plus any plasterboard or bare plaster must be sealed with an acrylic primer (not pva)

I was suprised when I read this. I don't doubt that you're right, but I did our bathroom about 15 years ago, which involved creating a small stud wall. The wall formed one side of the shower cubicle. The tiling company I got everything from gave me adhesive & grout for a shower and said I was ok to tile straight to the plasterboard. I've had no issues and last year, I had to replace the shower tray and cubicle doors - everything was dry and sound under the tray and where the tiles stopped. They're still firmly attached to the plasterboard.

Given what you're saying, everything should be soaked and falling apart by now as the shower is used at least twice daily. It might be that the airing cupboard is on the other side of stud wall and is keeping things dry though. When I did the work I knew nothing about tiling and just took the advice of the various companies I dealt with.

cyclonebri1

Stooby2 wrote: »

I was suprised when I read this. I don't doubt that you're right, but I did our bathroom about 15 years ago, which involved creating a small stud wall. The wall formed one side of the shower cubicle. The tiling company I got everything from gave me adhesive & grout for a shower and said I was ok to tile straight to the plasterboard. I've had no issues and last year, I had to replace the shower tray and cubicle doors - everything was dry and sound under the tray and where the tiles stopped. They're still firmly attached to the plasterboard.

Given what you're saying, everything should be soaked and falling apart by now as the shower is used at least twice daily. It might be that the airing cupboard is on the other side of stud wall and is keeping things dry though. When I did the work I knew nothing about tiling and just took the advice of the various companies I dealt with.

You obviously did a very good job:T

What the guys are saying how a pro would do it, or even a DIYer who want's guaranteed long lasting results;);)

You managed to keep yours dry, many don't, so the purpose of NoPly, Tilebacker boards etc is to ensure that if water gets through, the substrate is man enough to withstand the wet without disintegrating.

This post kind of goes along with my earlier 1, you can do it many ways and provided you take care you can get away with it, Andy and SG are simply stating the best or most Pro way.

The Op's tiles like yours will probably still be there years later, or at least until his missus decides fashion has changed:o:o