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ASHP very expensive!!!

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  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
    Ninth Anniversary 1,000 Posts
    vikki80 wrote: »
    DWH is at 50 and not sure what temp the radiators are set to but i only have it on 19 maybe 20 on the thermostat

    I have read alot on the NIBE but that seems to be an exhaust blowing hot air in to the house mine is a air to wet system. Installation was lousy the LA didnt have a clue on what they were like or how they run, just engineers who install and service oil/gas and the looks on their faces when they see mine says it all. Even the electric companies didnt seem to know what to do with my tariff when i called to have it changed
    Forget the Nibe, as it is not relevant to what you have.
    DHW temp is normal at circa 50C.
    Is there a buffer tank for the radiator circuit from the heat pump, or is it trying to heat everything directly from it?
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • As far as I know its heating directly from the pump, we haven't been told anything to be honest as to how it works or what's involved. I can hear the pump whirring up when the heating kicks in though so i assume its straight from the pump
  • muckybutt
    muckybutt Posts: 3,761 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    We had a Heatking put in a few years ago as we were classed as being in fuel poverty - worst thing we have ever had done even though it was free !

    In the 2010 winter it cost us over £800 for 70 days use, needless to say we had the engineers around looking at the system to make sure it was running correctly etc and all was found to be correct. However looking back at it now installing one of these in a Grade II listed building with no cavity wall insulation and double glazing was a recipe for disaster.

    I also don't think our system was correctly designed as it always seemed to be running and going through the defrost cycle.

    Best thing we did was rip it out - sell it and install a multi fuel stove.
    You may click thanks if you found my advice useful
  • deano72_2
    deano72_2 Posts: 786 Forumite
    edited 22 December 2013 at 11:05PM
    There's a couple of relative basic checks you can do.but if you haven't got a clue I suggest you get someone round with some basic know how, but it's upto you
    Check all thermistors (sensors) are in there housing on the water tank,sometimes the ones for hot water gets accidentally pulled out and are swinging in the air giving a false reading to FTC.
    Take the cover off ( if not compotant with power off) and check FTC dip switches,particular the one for pasteurisation, most of the time there set to activate pasteurisation for 15 cycles but there's no reason 150 cycles can't be used.the dip switch for this is sw2-4 & sw2-5. Sw2-4 off sw2-5 on will operate pasteurisation every 150 dhw cycles.
    A lot of the time the installer/commissioner might leave it in boost mode,plug j2 around the bottom left hand corner of the FTC there will be a block connector plugged in, sometimes the link gets left in for boost mode pin 1&2 by linking 1&3 it will set to eco mode (when your heating is on it should say eco in the display)And follow the heat curve the engineer programmed.
    BEFORE YOU ADDJUST ANY DIP SWITCHES MAKE A NOTE/PICTURE OF CURRENT SETTINGS.
    If you do addjust the dip switches you will then need to do a full power down then power back up like you would do a reset procedure of the system.
    On the inside of the cover it will tell you where the dip switches are to be positioned for 150 cycle for pasteurisation, that's the only one I would recommend you check for now.also it will tell you which one is the plug/connector for boost..
    Ps, before writing this I just assumed you know what the FTC is, in case you don't it's the white box usually attached to the cyclinder but theres no guarantee it's been installed like this.
  • vikki80 wrote: »
    as for it being set up properly I havent a clue but the people who did install it seemed clueless too, surely people should know how these things should be installed, we havent even been told how to use them either just lots of error messages and lots of engineers who dont know what they are doing

    What are the usual error codes you are getting. It will be displayed on the controller with Mitsubishi on it, will be a letter followed by a number eg p6 u1 p8 along them lines
  • deano72 wrote: »
    On the inside of the cover it will tell you where the dip switches are to be positioned for 150 cycle for pasteurisation, ...

    Suggest using cocktail sticks...
  • mardatha
    mardatha Posts: 15,612 Forumite
    Vicki there's a village up here where the HA did the same thing and the people were freezing. I would do what muckybutt says and switch the damn thing off and buy a stove with the money you save.
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