Bindweed taking over :(

Mojisola

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

Excellent advice, most folks miss the point that you can treat the roots with GLPT, not just the leaves.

Glyphosate has to be absorbed through the leaves and then will translocate to the roots to kill the whole plant.

cyclonebri1

Mojisola wrote: »

Glyphosate has to be absorbed through the leaves and then will translocate to the roots to kill the whole plant.

No, it doesn't that was the whole point of my comment and Leif's earlier 1.

You can kill trees by simply drilling and feeding concentrated glyphosate to the roots, the leaves do the same but slower.

Read up on it ;)

Mojisola

cyclonebri1 wrote: »

No, it doesn't that was the whole point of my comment and Leif's earlier 1.

You can kill trees by simply drilling and feeding concentrated glyphosate to the roots, the leaves do the same but slower.

Read up on it ;)

But by drilling into a stump you are doing what the plant does when you spray the leaves.

That's not the same situation as spraying glyphosate onto bindweed root fragments in the soil.

Tiglath

Good luck - we've been fighting a losing battle against bindweed for 13 years, thanks to the railway embankment at the bottom of the garden.

Leif

macma wrote: »

Leif I know digging could work in some places but we are surrounded by chunky stone walls, the stuff sprouts from under them. They harbour millions of snails too I repointed about 4 feet in the front garden, it was very satisfying but took aaaages so I guess the snails are safe :rotfl:

I suppose my point was academic, since I have a life, I spray. I do wonder how organic gardeners manage. I suppose the only real option they have is to leave fabric such as old carpet down for a few years.

cyclonebri1

Mojisola wrote: »

But by drilling into a stump you are doing what the plant does when you spray the leaves.

That's not the same situation as spraying glyphosate onto bindweed root fragments in the soil.

Yes you are, but I was giving a general answer rather than 1 specific to this thread. You gave 1 way glyphosate can be applied in manner that suggested it was the only way, ( the accepted way I admit), I simply gave the other option.;);)

There is a product called Roseate 360, it's a supper concentrated form of glyphosate, the instructions give details of how to kill shrubs and even dosages for full grown trees.
The point being that you can't spray a whole tree without killing everything in the vicinity.

My method for bindweed is to let it grow, push a finger though a super market bag and drag as long a length of stem through the hole as possible. I them apply the product I mentioned with a gloved hand and wrap the thing in the bag and tie it up.

IE I find it easier to zap when it's given a little headway.

The bag stops you killing whatever the bindweed is growing through.

Word of warning, wearing surgical latex gloves, you only have a 5 minute period before this stuff eats through them, so use it with great care if you go that way anybody.

Leif

I don't mean to tread on anyone's toes, but you can't kill bindweed by spraying roots. Sadly. And top growth needs multiple sprayings, one is rarely enough.

It doesn't work very well when put on stumps either, I drilled a Sycamore stump, and filled the holes with glyposate. It came back this year. I did the same to Holly stumps, and they grew shoots later on in the year.

Funky_Bold_Ribena

Leif wrote: »

I suppose my point was academic, since I have a life, I spray. I do wonder how organic gardeners manage. I suppose the only real option they have is to leave fabric such as old carpet down for a few years.

Organic gardeners don't use old carpet...unless it is synthetic free of course, which most aren't. We use cardboard and digging. Well, at least I do. I'd rather not use that stuff when nobody knows what it actually does to the soil and wildlife.

cyclonebri1

Leif wrote: »

I don't mean to tread on anyone's toes, but you can't kill bindweed by spraying roots. Sadly. And top growth needs multiple sprayings, one is rarely enough.

It doesn't work very well when put on stumps either, I drilled a Sycamore stump, and filled the holes with glyposate. It came back this year. I did the same to Holly stumps, and they grew shoots later on in the year.

Sorry wasn't inferring roots of bindweed could be killed by spraying.

And my point about treating bindweed by concentrated glyphosate in a bag was for the same reason you mention, I too have mixed results with spraying. I would rather use the watering can than a spray for GS, but you can't do that within a hedge:eek::eek:

I do differ though on the subject of stump or live tree drilling.
I did end the life of a Rowan, about 18ft high with a double trunk of about 6" dia each. Drilled and plugged with wine cork with correct amount of GS in each trunk, and it did not survive.

I did this before felling, whether that makes a difference, I don't know;)

martinsurrey

I got rid of 90% of my bind weed in a year, I spent an age detangeling it from the bushes and hedges and keeping all the leaves and stems intact, grouped together, and placed them in plant pots at ground level.

Several days of spraying the pots killed most of the growth, I then did the same with every shoot that came back over a summer, let it grow to 3ft, untangle and nuke with spray for a few days.

in year 2 I had hardly anything to do.