OMG my electricity bill!!!!

chris73

Computers rarely use the maximum amount of current stated on the PSU. The PSU rating - ie 300W, 400W is the maximum that the PSU can deliver without overload. Unless you have a PC with dual current hungry water cooled processors, 6 fans, 4 Hdd's and 5 or 6 CD writers all running together in practice you are rarely going to get anywhere near that figure!. The last time I measured my PC (a 2.6ghz P4 processor) the draw was 0.4A - thats about 110W.

CRT (TV style tube) monitors draw between 55W and 100W depending on the age and screen size, treat it like an additional TV, which essentially is what it is. TFT monitors use far less, around 30w - 60W. If you must leave your PC on when unattended, then switch the monitor off.

TV's do use little current on standby but multiply that by 3 or 4 sets all on standby in a house with a large family and the pennies do mount up. Besides the key word here is fire hazard - switch the set off at the mains and not the remote when the house is likely to be unattended or during the night - not a money saving tip exactly, but more of a safety one.

Fridges and freezes are connected to the mains 24/7 but never draw current continuously. They rely on thermostats to switch the compressor on / off in accordance with the internal temperature and the thermostat setting. During cooler months or if your fridge freezer is in a cool position then you can probably turn down the thermostat. Avoid placing your fridge / freezer in direct sunlight (near a window for example) and avoid leaving the door open - even when making return trips from the appliance to the kitchen etc - always close it. Check door seals on older models, they can leak!.

Replace frequently left on lights such as hall / entrance and bathroom lights with low energy bulbs. If you have kids consider fitting a delay timer to hall lights, this is a timer which switches the light off after a pre-determined period such as 10 - 15 mins, this way they can't be left on for long periods.

Turn down your immersion heater by 1 or 2c - if you need to run the cold tap endlessly when you fill up the bath - your water is too hot anyway!, so you can afford to turn it down.

Halogen uplighters burn power. 300W or 500W models use the same lamp as your outside halogen security light - without the benefit of switching on and off!. Consider using 3 or 4 table lamps with 20W - 25W energy saving lamps around the room - the light output will still be similar and spread around and the energy saved will make a big difference!. For reading, and the Kids Bedrooms consider the low voltage halogen desk lamps. These are usually 10 or 20W using 12v halogen capsules and give a surprising amount of light.

In bedrooms, and the lounge where conventional bulbs are still used, then replace the switch with a dimmer unit, so they can be turned down when doing less light intensive activity such as Watching TV or pampering a partner! . It's amazing how much energy can be saved over a quarter by turning 4x 60W wall lights down to even 50% light output for a few hours a night - you'll save on bulbs too!.

If you have a property which requires permanently lit outside lighting, such as on a farm, pub, business premises etc, then consider replacing any halogen floodlights with Sodium or Metal Halide. 500W Halogen floods can easily be replaced by 70w or 150W Metal Halide models which offer a similar light output, longer lamp life and a fraction of the running costs. This is only cost effective and workable where the light is permanently lit, the best option for domestic houses is still the PIR floodlight which only lights when somebody triggers it, but set the on time to around 1 - 2 mins, or a low energy wall lamp.

roger56

lipidicman wrote:

....or overpay to get the electricity at the previous, cheaper, rate!

Indeed, there's a fair chance you'll be a winner. :money:
I cann't see prices going down.

Cardew

lipidicman wrote:

....or overpay to get the electricity at the previous, cheaper, rate!

Surely overpayment will not get you electricity at the previous rate. Your bills are calculated on meter readings not your credit or debit balance. i.e you are charged at the 'old' rate up to a certain meter reading and at the 'new' rate from that reading.

Are you getting confused with the overpayment a lot of people made when VAT was introduced on Gas/Elec supplies?

The only way is, when you supply a reading, to give a higher reading than the true reading.

roger56

lipidicman wrote:

Of course this is THE MOST EXPENSIVE way that you can pay for your electricity. If you can, use direct debit to save money

Pre pay the most expensive way?...Not entirely true. Equipower and Equigas is a fair trade supplier and happens to be one of the cheapest. To quote them

"EBICo's philosophy is based on helping the whole community get a fair deal from the benefits of energy competition, regardless of payment methods."

So go here for details:
http://www.ebico.co.uk/

Compare using Uswitch (you need to click the show all suppliers as the initial comparison only shows 3* rated and above. Equipower is 2* but from my experience they are helpful and keep you updated.)

I'm transferring even though I am lucky and can pay DD.

lipidicman

Cardew wrote:

The only way is, when you supply a reading, to give a higher reading than the true reading.

Exactly what I meant....but I was being a little flippant...it would only confuse the company and maybe even start an investigation due to irregular readings - ie a lot in one quarter, then very little.....as I said, I wasnt being serious!

lipidicman

roger56 wrote:

Pre pay the most expensive way?...Not entirely true. Equipower and Equigas is a fair trade supplier and happens to be one of the cheapest. To quote them

"EBICo's philosophy is based on helping the whole community get a fair deal from the benefits of energy competition, regardless of payment methods."

That's cool, but I stand by my statement - with a given supplier prepay is generally the most expensive option, with DD the cheapest.

Tony_H_3

My wife uses the tumble dryer resentlessly, taking out the wet washing an plonking it in the TD for 120 minutes at a time.

I needed something in a hurry and so turned to the washing machine manual to select the best program for the job & happened to select a program that used the fastest spin 1400. Placing the washed clothes into the TD I selected 40 minutes 66% less time than the wife uses and low and behold my clothes came out in 25 minutes dry as a bone!!

The moral of this story, use your fastest spin at all times in order to squeeze the life out of the drying time.

lipidicman

Tony_H wrote:

My wife uses the tumble dryer resentlessly....

I wouldn't resent a tumble dryer either . Only Joking!

Cardew

Tony_H wrote:

The moral of this story, use your fastest spin at all times in order to squeeze the life out of the drying time.

Having spent many years trying to convice my wife that I am not qualified to use a washing machine; I am not too certain of my ground on this subject.

However I have heard that you must not use high speed spin for certain fabrics.

Perhaps someone better qualified could comment!!

lee3276

GOD MY ELECTRIC IN WINTER IS A F****** £120 A MONTH WE DON'T HAVE GAS ALL ELECTIC AND ON KEY METER THE BILL AS FOLLOWS

Present Reading: 55635 taken on 28 Feb 2005
Previous Reading: 54156 taken on 11 Nov 2004

Electricity used 1479 units - 1 unit is 1 kilowatt (kWh)
for first 269 kWh at 13.236 pence per kWh
for last 1210 kwh at 7.475 pence per kWh
Cost of electricity used £126.05
VAT £6.30
Less balance b/fwd cr £284.49
Less your payments cr £480.00
Balance carried forward credit £632.14

THEY SAY WE ARE NOT IN CREDIT BUT THE BILL SAYS WE ARE £632.14 IN CREDIT I DON'T UNDERSTAND HELP!!!