safe way to get rid of a electric socket.

keystone

Myser wrote: »

You can use Wago push-fit connectors that are suitable for burying in walls.

I think most people would argue that the original Wago connectors did NOT meet the necessary standards.

With the correct type of crimp for solid core cable and the appropriate crimping tool, there won't be a problem.

Quite.

However, most electricians just use ordinary crimps and a pair of pliers.

That seems to me to be a very inflamatory, generalistic and probably wrong statement. Do you have some evidence to back that up?

madjay wrote: »

Wago push fit connectors are deemed a connection block and not a joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or appropriate compression tool therefore would have to be accessible for inspection, testing and maintanence.

Sorry but thats your opinion not an industry acceptance. The Hager box is certainly Maintenance Free. Are you now changing your mind and saying that a crimped or soldered joint is acceptable under the 17th?

Myser wrote: »

It would probably fall under note: (ii) A compound-filled or encapsulated joint

No that means a "potted" joint as far as I am concerned which is not the same thing at all.

Might be useful at this stage to have some input from the OP scooby088 as to what they have decided?

Back to the last para of my previous post then.

Cheers

Myser

Originally Posted by Myser


It would probably fall under note: (ii) A
compound-filled or encapsulated joint

keystone wrote: »

No that means a "potted" joint as far as I am concerned which is not the same thing at all.

My understanding is that compound-filled is a potted joint. Encapsulated would be where the joint isn't exposed.

keystone

Myser wrote: »

My understanding is that compound-filled is a potted joint. Encapsulated would be where the joint isn't exposed.

OK - I'll go with you on that then. On that basis a sleeved crimped joint would meet your definition of encapsulated then?

But we've still strayed far away from OPs original question.

Cheers

Myser

keystone wrote: »

OK - I'll go with you on that then. On that basis a sleeved crimped joint would meet your definition of encapsulated then?

Perhaps, provided the correct type of crimp for the wire type is used and there is no exposed wire.

Although Wago connectors would be better as they offer IP20 protection (minimum) and the outer wire sleeve near the joint is partly encapsulated into the connector.

cyclonebri1

keystone wrote: »

Cy - don't you ever complain again when I mention thread creep!. Another winkfest as well I see.

Cheers

:D:D:D:D:DBeen away for a few posts and you have been and gone and done it again:D:D:D:D

what was that, "don't you ever complain again when I.......":D:D:D:D:A;);)

scooby088

Sorry I haven't been here for a while still haven't done the job, but to clarify One of the sockets I want to blank is a fused switch, would I Have to get a fused switch blank or could I use a normal blanking plate as I would with the other one once I have used 30A connecting blocks to terminate the other outlet.

Myser

Normal blank is fine.

uk_messer

OP, I don't see how a blanking plate is going to look less out of place than a 2 gang socket. There's always a need for a socket!

uk_messer

As for these child safety socket covers I understand the concern over them but has there been a single case of someone dying from them?

If a child can go to the lengths of messing with the safety covers what's to stop them pushing into the earth point and the live too on an exposed socket? Probably more chance of that happening.

Myser

uk_messer wrote: »

If a child can go to the lengths of messing with the safety covers what's to stop them pushing into the earth point and the live too on an exposed socket? Probably more chance of that happening.

UK sockets built to the British Standard are inherently safe and designed to prevent children poking things into the live/neutral sockets.

This video may clarify it for you:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-WhFgaqCX0

RoSPA have also stated that the socket covers are not necessary:

http://www.rospa.com/homesafety/policy/electricity.aspx