3rd party warranty

Prothet_of_Doom

JamesN wrote: »

Hey everyone,



I really can't afford to pay repair bills once i have the car as i'm saving for a house deposit and a wedding!

READ and read again. Think of the possible solutions here.

1) Buy a cheaper car and save some money for repairs
2) Buy a newer car that is under warranty
3) Buy a Flash car and buy a worthless warranty.


If you are saving for a house and deposit maybe you could think about spending alot less. I'm guessing the lexus is £7K
Why not have a look at a mk4 astra for £1K, put £5 into your deposit and £1K into the emergency car fund (worst case you weigh the astra in because of a major fault and buy another) :rotfl:

jase1

Agreed re the Octavia, but more because it's a good car, rather than a cheap one.

My understanding of the phrase is the same, but I apply it to the engineering, not the tin box that surrounds it.

"Run of the mill" to me means something like a traditional, normally-aspirated 1.6 petrol lump. Simple, easy to fix, rarely fails, and when it does anyone with a hammer and a wrench can patch it up.

Prothet_of_Doom

OddballJamie wrote: »

Accord,

Paid £4.6K for a 2004 accord 2.2 diesel 2 years ago, and I did a full financial payback verses spending £1500 on a 1.6 Petrol Astra mk4.

In real world MPG figures I've broken even, and I do servicing myself so no real impact.

It's a great car, comfortable fast, posh, different.

Until this week. I am going to need an Exhaust Manifold. £400 including VAT. Plus 4 hours of professional labour or a whole weekend of me swearing. Call it £700 ?

The thing I'm aware if is that if Dual Mass Flywheel, Timing Chain Tensioners, or partical filters need attention, I will be looking at £1000 each time.

I'm saving £1700 in fuel a year, but I'm running a risk that the £1700 is wiped out in one massive bill.

My back up plan ? Fix it, make it last forever, and get it to pay back the money it owes me, by being more reliable and more fuel efficient long term than a mk4 astra 1.6 petrol.

OddballJamie

Speaking of petrols, I was gonna ask what miles the OP does, whether it warrants the need of a diesel engine.

mattyprice4004

Prothet_of_Doom wrote: »

OddballJamie wrote: »

Accord,

Paid £4.6K for a 2004 accord 2.2 diesel 2 years ago, and I did a full financial payback verses spending £1500 on a 1.6 Petrol Astra mk4.

In real world MPG figures I've broken even, and I do servicing myself so no real impact.

It's a great car, comfortable fast, posh, different.

Until this week. I am going to need an Exhaust Manifold. £400 including VAT. Plus 4 hours of professional labour or a whole weekend of me swearing. Call it £700 ?

The thing I'm aware if is that if Dual Mass Flywheel, Timing Chain Tensioners, or partical filters need attention, I will be looking at £1000 each time.

I'm saving £1700 in fuel a year, but I'm running a risk that the £1700 is wiped out in one massive bill.

My back up plan ? Fix it, make it last forever, and get it to pay back the money it owes me, by being more reliable and more fuel efficient long term than a mk4 astra 1.6 petrol.

A new exhaust manifold? Never hear of those going!

forgotmyname

2006 car everything will be wear and tear.

Mondeo diesel MK3 upto 2007. Lots of problems. Injectors are very very weak so all the forums say. Pull into a garage and say you have a problem they will instantly say you need new injectors or a pump.

It even put me off buying a diesel one, But i found one that ticked all the right boxes.
3 1/2 years later its still all good.

But its just passed 160,000 miles so it should do shouldn't it. Plenty of life left it in.

JamesN

All interesting points. Fair point about spending much less. I'm always worried that spending sub 2k means something is bound to go wrong at some stage or it isn't that safe a car (personal experience for a one off anyway)

As i do a few long distance runs >200 miles I can't be doing with breaking down half way there.

My Dad is pretty handy with motors and could fix most things that don't require specialist tools.

I'll look into octavia's.

I do about 14/15k miles a year so diesel is just about worth it i think. Especially spending less than 3k.

I guess the general consensus is that the warranties are worthless. Thats a shame as it would've been nice to have a Lexus.

gilbert_and_sullivan

If you want Diesel, buy cheaper older designs, the more modern the more complicated they are.

If you really want a Lexus, find a petrol engined model with a full and proper Lexus service history and you will have one of the most durable well made cars money can buy.

The first IS200/300 was a superb car and simpler than the new model, it can still be found in excellent well maintained condition but like some German cars has found itself falling into poor ownership, so must be carefully bought like any desirable car, these are not white disposable goods and need looking after well for a long life.

Generally any Toyota petrol is as good a bet as its possible to buy especially Yaris Corolla Avensis Camry, as are most Hondas particularly Civic Accord.

Cars should be bought on condition and previous care whatever the make, if you buy privately then you are judging the previous owner as much as the car they are selling.
Not much different if its a garage, cheapest isn't always best.

Few little tips, when you look at a car the first thing to look at is the tyres and wheels and the brake discs/calipers through them as much as can be seen.

If the tyres and wheels are kerb rubbed or in poor condition then its been driven without care, if the tyres are cheap worn rubbish make then assume that if the most important and visible part of the cars maintenance is as cheap as possible then you must assume the more important unseen stuff to be similarly neglected.

Are the discs scored/wear ridged, severely rusted on the non friction areas and the calipers filthy and rusty?, if so you know exactly how much care this car has seen.

Lift the bonnet, check the oil, petrol engine oil should never be black, if its been serviced within the last 5k miles it should be clean and golden still, it will discolour somewhat as it nears service time.
Check the coolant, it chould be green or red depending on the make, no nasty floaters on top and no nasty dark stains on the header tank around and above the level of the coolant.

If the car you are looking at has good make tyres fitted, has non kerbed wheels, has discs/calipers in good maintained condition?...if so far good and the owner/seller is the type of person you would really invite to stay in your home, then the car deserves further investigation.

Remember some of the best kept cars have been home serviced by ex mechanics and other similarly minded decent people (my own car whilst 17 years old has no service history in writing, yet its been looked after by the best MB indy in the country and myelf and runs and looks better than most two year old cars on the road), so whilst service history is important remember a forged service book can be bought fully stamped online.

Never assume anything, use your gut feeling judgement of the car and the seller and you might just find youself a peach.

OddballJamie

gilbert_and_sullivan wrote: »

Check the coolant, it chould be green or red depending on the make, no nasty floaters on top and no nasty dark stains on the header tank around and above the level of the coolant.

Blue coolant is quite common too, I've also since it once in orange.

Prothet_of_Doom

mattyprice4004 wrote: »

Prothet_of_Doom wrote: »

OddballJamie wrote: »

Accord,

A new exhaust manifold? Never hear of those going!

No. I've owned (with my wife) 20 plus cars and motorbikes, and this is a new one on me too. I've always done my own servicing and most repairs, including head gaskets and swapping engines, and welding and brakes.

Having had the problem and looked a few forums, it seems that the cast iron was too thin for the operating conditions it is subjected to.

If you think about it, there is low cycle fatique in terms of expansion and contraction due to temperature, and high cycle fatigue in terms of pressure pulsing from exhaust gases from cylinder, and Cast Iron is fairly forgiving, but the redesign was thicker apparently.

Having working in automotive for 20 years I'd say the manufacturing cost to Honda is £40 if that. and 10 is the normal industry multiplication once you add tax and numerous middle men from supplier to dealer. :eek: