Can I fix this cistern inlet leak myself?

southcoastrgi

by loosening the connection from the pan to the cistern you may have now caused yourself another problem because it is likely you will now have to remove the cistern & replace the doughnut washer, cost wise you are looking at an hrs work (providing the incoming stoptap doesn't need replacing) plus bits so prob about £60 - £80

mehera

Trust me I am well aware of the complexities of toilet repair - my advise is not a 'complete guide' . . .

Of course I am aware you can cross thread the nut joining!

It would be nice if you added to the post rather than come on and accuse people of being idiots quite frankly.

I will tell you if I believe you are wrong as well!!!!

For an older member of the forum I would expect a bit more politeness . . .

mehera

It is worth noting that although plumbing can be DIYed that it is not for the feint hearted!

You have to weight up whether you feel you can really do a job as many other issues can come up during and something which starts out simple ends up a nightmare!!!

mehera

To the OP:

- Try moving the stopcock using a spanner + wd 40 - usually it is just very stiff!

- Try doing up the isolation valve carefully and re-tighten the bolts on the cistern. There is a fair chance you may be able refit the toilet like this.

However you will have to refill and test it.

There is no guarantee you will have to replace all the parts being suggested . . .

mart.vader

OK OP, It's always best to have a working stopcock for life's little emergencies. - if the stopcock is seized, as above try WD40 and try moving it a little bit one way, then the other way. If it moves a little, try back the other way, and keep repeating until it frees up. Don't get too physical with the spanner.

If this does not produce any results, IF you can identify your outside stopcock in the footway (i.e. the Water Co's one - it may be under a water meter cover) and IF you can operate it, you can turn water off there. If you can't operate it, or if there isn't one, you will need to call the W Co, and ask for a "Shut-down". This may be chargeable.

While the water is off, it's a good time to replace the seized stopcock. which you would do by undoing the nuts at either end of the stopcock. New ones cost c. £5.

Then you can repair the leak under your loo, without risking a flood.

paddyrg

I'm walking into the hornets nest here, eyes open and aware that this will probably elicit strong reactions...

Is there a reason why nobody suggested the OP get some milliput from the pound shop? If the PTFE tape was a sign of a bodge job to begin with, then doing it professionally (ie by a professional) would be the only true solution, so adding another bodge on top could have solved the problem for another 5 years for a quid...or call the plumber in anyway if it failed?!

mehera

Yes there are lots of different 'bodges' you might be able to do - although I of course avoid using them as I would be help responsible should they fail (which they would sooner or later . . . .)

I would have to advise that for most people it might be better not to mess with plumbing at all unless you are a very competent DIYer!

You can end up with more problems than you started with . . .

In fact you may be best to try a bodge and then just call a plumber in should this not work!

(I get called to a few jobs like this!)

Milliput would not work most likely and would make a reet mess of the joint as well.

I am not going to shout at you for suggesting it - although 'others' may well do!

southcoastrgi

Mehera, lets try & straighten out a few things,

PTFE tape has absolutly diddy squat to do with not allowing the fibre washer to compress, in fact the washer works by swelling when it gets wet & this creates the seal, if the nut is loosened on the OP's service valve then the washer must be replaced as it won't seal again.

The OP has isolated the water going into the cistern so why are you suggesting they replace this valve ?

If you want to proudly tell everyone that you are a professional plumber then as such you should get the answers right to the threads you are commenting on.

This forum is called Money Saving Expert & all I have seen you do is give wrong advice or tell people to fit new taps when it's an easy diy fix for no money, suggest someone gets a combi boiler when it was again proved you were wrong because the OP has low water pressure, or like this thread suggest the OP gets a plumber in because plumbing isn't for the fainthearted, I have already told the OP what the problem was & that was to replace the ballvalve & fit a new fibre washer, although as a professional plumber they took your word that you knew what you were talking about & now the cistern is leaking more than what it was, meaning they will now prob have to call in a plumber (after the job are you ?).

BTW i don't go trolling to see what you have posted it's just you seem to post on the same posts as me.

We are all here to help others that ask questions, some diyiers will give the correct answer & some won't, but if you want to portray yourself as a professional plumber don't be surprised if someone jumps down your throat for giving incorrect advice or suggests the OP spends money where it's not necessary, some things are a diy fix & some aren't (gas being one of them & i will never give advice on a gas or a boiler prob that involves gas or the workings of the gas or flue side).

Just incase you are wondering I have been a Plumbing & Heating Engineer for 31 yrs

niyaz

I had a leak on the water intake valve. I bought a new water intake valve from screwfix for a tenner and changed the fibre washer on the flexi pipe which screws onto the valve. I still get a little drip . The water intake valve is finger tight and so is the flexi pipe. There must be a simpler way to stop leaks totally.

southcoastrgi

flexi pipe connections usually have a rubber washer already fitted so you don't need the fibre washer & this maybe your problem