Can I fix this cistern inlet leak myself?

littlesnuggy

Having discovered a damp patch on my kitchen ceiling that is directly below our en suite last night, I've now tracked down the source of the problem to what I understand is the water inlet to the toilet cistern. I wrapped some dishcloths around the pipe last night and this morning they are soaking wet.

Here's a photo (excuse the cobwebs!)





I think the leak is coming from the top of the gold metal piece where it scews onto the (plastic?) screw-threaded section from the cistern.

I have worked out that I can turn off the water supply to the cistern by using a screwdriver to turn the slot on the valve to horizontal position, but what next...?!

Is it likely to be a washer that is needed, and if so, can anyone give me any pointers as to what I should look for in Homebase, please?

It seems silly to call a plumber for something that is hopefully a minor issue but I've never done any plumbing whatsoever and don't really know what to do next!

Stooby2

It depends where it's leaking from. If it's leaking from where you say, if you unscrew it, clean all the threads thoroughly, wrap the plastic thread with several turns of ptfe tape and do it up, it might work.

It could be the sealing washer in the cistern has degraded and is starting to leak. That will involve unscrewing the large plastic nut to lift the entire valve out to replace the washer.

It'll either take 10 minutes or all day!

littlesnuggy

Stooby2 wrote: »

It depends where it's leaking from. If it's leaking from where you say, if you unscrew it, clean all the threads thoroughly, wrap the plastic thread with several turns of ptfe tape and do it up, it might work.

It could be the sealing washer in the cistern has degraded and is starting to leak. That will involve unscrewing the large plastic nut to lift the entire valve out to replace the washer.

It'll either take 10 minutes or all day!

Thanks so much Stooby! I have drained the cistern now so will nip to Homebase to buy some of the tape and give that a go. At 69p, I'll have saved a fortune if it works!

Stooby2

Just make sure the threads are thoroughly cleaned, both on the plastic bit and the inside of the metal part.

And I forgot to mention, check to see if there's a washer in there that might be breaking up as well.

Plumbers_Shop_Lee

Whilst your there pick up a couple of 1/2" fibre washers whilst youv'e got it stripped down you may as well change this for the few pence it'll cost

mehera

I am a profession plumber and i can tell you categorically NOT to put ptfe on that thread!!!!

You are only more likely to create a leak. In fact I can see someone has already put ptfe on the thread before - and this may well be why it is leaking in the first place!!

Replace the washer or the part only.

Ptfe stops the washer being compressed fully - leading to leaks . . . .

Also you better make sure you do not accidentally loosen the lower nut otherwise you may be in for a horrible surprise!

Personally I would find the stopcock which will isolated the water 100% safely.

Then just get an exact match fitting from B & Q.

This is no harder than what you are suggesting really -but a lot safer and far better fix for the long term!

For a local plumber this could be done in 15 mins should the part be to hand!

littlesnuggy

I've now unscrewed the nut and found an orange (rubber?) washer that is split. This is going to sound like such a stupid question, but how do I get a new washer on, as I can't see an open 'end' to the plastic pipe to slot it over? Do I have to lift the whole cistern up & off the wall?!

Here's what it looks like (after I've taken out the old washer that was split)

littlesnuggy

mehera wrote: »

I am a profession plumber and i can tell you categorically NOT to put ptfe on that thread!!!!

You are only more likely to create a leak. In fact I can see someone has already put ptfe on the thread before - and this may well be why it is leaking in the first place!!

Replace the washer or the part only.

Ptfe stops the washer being compressed fully - leading to leaks . . . .

Also you better make sure you do not accidentally loosen the lower nut otherwise you may be in for a horrible surprise!

Personally I would find the stopcock which will isolated the water 100% safely.

Then just get an exact match fitting from B & Q.

This is no harder than what you are suggesting really -but a lot safer and far better fix for the long term!

For a local plumber this could be done in 15 mins should the part be to hand!

Thanks Mehera - so you're suggesting I replace that gold metal part..? Please can you tell me what it's called so I can look for one! And I understand that before removing this I'd have to isolate the water at the stopcock (which I'm currently unsure where it is, hence I've only got this far).

Myser

Since you have removed one thread of the valve from the pipework, you may as well replace the complete valve. Just go to your nearest Toolstation or Screwfix and pick up a new screw-type isolation valve.

The gold-looking things are olives to make the compression joint and the new valve will come with them.

Don't pull the valve out before isolating the main stop tap otherwise you'll have water everywhere!

Plumbers_Shop_Lee

That orange rubber is actually a fibre washer which is probably all that is wrong, don't take the service valve off (gold metal part) gently push down on the pipework and youll see there is a small upstand on top of the fitting keeping it inside the grey plastic thread. Replace that washer and re assemble

littlesnuggy

Thanks Lee - I think that sounds like the simplest & cheapest thing to try first. I've checked Homebase's website and they have 13mm or 19mm fibre washers - which is it most likely to be? I've tried measuring the broken one and I think it's nearer 13 than 19mm but as it's broken I'm not sure... I live just round the corner from Homebase so hoping to pick some up this afternoon.

Thanks again