Air getting into combi system

Myser

hubb wrote: »

There is a smaller hexagonal brass housing inside the larger nut. Will I be able to turn that instead or will I break it?

Might be easier if you can post a photo on here so that someone can advise better.

keystone

Myser wrote: »

I remember speaking to Fernox about this

Pleased that you have time to do that.

and there is no harm in adding more inhibitor to the system.

Sorry I don't agree. Well I do to a certain extent. I agree that there is no harm in slightly overdosing a system. However there was a well known combi boiler manufacturer a few years ago who suffered considerable problems with too high a concentration of inhibitor rotting part of their diverter valve. To me thats harmful.

Cheers

keystone

Am rather confuzzled as to why you maintain that the system is "letting in air". The phrase is illogical TBH. Its a sealed pressurised system so how can it be "letting in" air? Either;

1. There is significant corrosion going on releasing hydrogen but you sia dthe system water is clean or;.

2. The boiler is running far too hot, the system water is boiling and releasing air or;

3. The left a load of the stuff in there when he drained and subsequently refilled it.

I know which one my money is on and I've already mentioned it up the thread anyway.

Cheers

Cheers

hubb

Now the bedroom rad is half hot and half cold. Not top and bottom but cold left to right. A vertical line down he middle. How on earth do you explain that ?

keystone

Blockage in the radiator - its short circuiting. Despite his protestations that it's nothing to do with what he did the fact seems to remain that it was all OK before he was there but not afterwards.

On the accepted basis that "the last person who touched it is responsible for it" then he should come back. But write him a letter and send it signed4. Don't text or email - they get "lost" so very easily.

Cheers

Ratboy

OP, You sound inexperienced, buying wrong sized tools and having damaged bleed keys. Leave well alone.

Contact the person that fitted the TRV's, explain politely that they are not getting hot since he visited, and you have been told the rads need bleeding, and can he do it, as they didn't work properly since he left? Make sure he doesn't charge extra, as this should have been done at the time.

hubb

Not being able to bleed the rad due to a worn bleed valve isn't "inexperience" neither is buying the wrong sized tool. That's just a misjudgment. Right tool-wrong size (slightly out in fact)

hubb

Here is the bleed valve housing:

http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy311/marb67/rad.jpg

macman

You need to buy a radiator bleed valve key-not an adjustable spanner! The head is recessed, so you can't possibly do it with any other tool than the one designed for the job.

hubb

I think you have misunderstood me. I have a rad bleed key, as I said earlier the bleed screw has rounded so the key will not grip it hence having to turn the hexaganol nut. A plumber bled it that way using his adjustable spanner when the combi was installed a few years ago as the bleed screw was rounded even then.