Outer CV boot leaking

andygb

This really annoyed me yesterday. I took the front o/s wheel off to check the disc and pads (I think the disc may be warped), and there were a couple of small splodges of instantly recognisable dark grease on the inner rim, and a bit more on the outer CV boot. So, I cleaned it up with degreaser (amazing how clean an alloy wheel looks after this), and turned the wheel a few times to see where the cracks were. No more grease came out and the clips are firmly in place, but there are signs of cracking/perishing on the boot.
So, I wondered if there are any quick fixes, because I was thinking of the following:
Clean everything thoroughly, then wrap insulating tape around the boot. Then get some thin rubber - old bicycle inner tube should do - and make a new covering for the entire boot, and fix in place using plastic garden ties. The tape would hopefully reinforce the original boot, and the outer rubber would hopefully be flexible enough to take the constant changes of direction and protect the tape.
Alternatively, is there are quick way of doing the job properly?

Rolandtheroadie

Perhaps something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-UNIVERSAL-SPLIT-CV-BOOT-KIT-DRIVE-SHAFT-BRAND-NEW-/200903907082?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec6ce570a

andygb

scotsman4th wrote: »

Perhaps something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-UNIVERSAL-SPLIT-CV-BOOT-KIT-DRIVE-SHAFT-BRAND-NEW-/200903907082?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ec6ce570a

I have seen those before, but do they work, bearing in mind that they have a big split down to allow replacing without taking the CV joint out?
I would imagine the whole thing letting go after a very short time?
Have you used one of these?
Cheers.

gilbert_and_sullivan

Whatever type of boot kit you go for remember to replenish the grease with fresh.

Rolandtheroadie

Tried to use one years ago, it was a disaster to be honest but I dont think it will be much different from what you're going to attempt.
If you do it carefully it might be ok.

Done my first ever cv joint and boot on my own car recently, it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. Just watched a youtube video and away I went.

If you've got the tools, give it a go.

andygb

I have been thinking about this a bit more, and wonder if PTFE tape may be better as the first layer, rather than insulating tape? I am going to go with my "method" (bodge:D) first and see how it works.
I must stock up on Gunk spray and liquid, because this grease is horrible stuff:(
I will also have to remember not to put the kitchen towel roll back in the kitchen with grease stains, because the OH went a bit mental yesterday, and I will have to clean off the front door handle (yep, more grease stains:o)
In fact, this time, I may just take degreaser, swarfega and a bucket of hot water outside with me;)
Must learn to plan ahead:)

Mankysteve

If your technical mind changing a boot isn't a difficult up job, but also shouldn't cost more than 100 for a garage to do. Cost me about 80 last time I think.

flashg67

I've used these successfully, better than the split type IMO. You still have to remove the hub nut, but saves splitting the CV joint from the shaft - example - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-STRETCH-STRETCHY-CV-JOINT-BOOT-FITTING-CONE-KIT-REPLACE-SPLIT-GAITER-/181109141096?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2af22e68

I think your temporary fix options will be just that, and probably more hassle in the long run.

andygb

flashg67 wrote: »

I've used these successfully, better than the split type IMO. You still have to remove the hub nut, but saves splitting the CV joint from the shaft - example - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-STRETCH-STRETCHY-CV-JOINT-BOOT-FITTING-CONE-KIT-REPLACE-SPLIT-GAITER-/181109141096?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a2af22e68

I think your temporary fix options will be just that, and probably more hassle in the long run.

Cheers, i just watched a youtube video of a guy using the cone method CV boot, and it sounded like he was giving birth, the amount of grunting he was doing:D It is obviously not a simple job, but if I can get the hub off and swing it to one side, then the rest is just hard work.

mattyprice4004

It's going to be just as much hard work when the grease leaks out and kills the joint anyway, plus of course the cost of a joint.

Just do it properly, you'll only have to do it again anyway when you change the joint if the grease escapes.

andygb

mattyprice4004 wrote: »

It's going to be just as much hard work when the grease leaks out and kills the joint anyway, plus of course the cost of a joint.

Just do it properly, you'll only have to do it again anyway when you change the joint if the grease escapes.

I had the wheel off again a couple of hours ago, and the CV boot isn't showing any signs of any more leaking (I know that this will change though), so I am going to give it a spin and see if I can hear any clicking noises from the joint itself.
The reason for this, is that I can get a complete joint kit (with both boots, grease and clips) from Eurocarparts for £35, or just a boot for £14.