How do I dry out the floorboards & ceiling?

counting_down_the_days...

Came home and noticed a dirty brown mark on the kitchen ceiling. Went upstairs and decided it was coming from the toilet - built into vanity units, just to make it a bit easier :T Had a look and down the bottom, the floorboards are soaking :eek:

I've eventually got into the back of the toilet, found its the bit that fills the cistern up that's leaking so stopped the water going into that. I'm not sure how to fix that, so any advice would be gratefully received. However, my main concern is - How do I dry out the floor boards? I've put a towel in just now to soak up some, and I'll leave the vanity units off to let air in, but anything else? And What about the ceiling? It's obviously been leaking for a while. Can I just wait a few weeks for it to dry & paint over the brown mark?

Thanks in advance.

diywhynot

Time is a great healer but fix the leak first. Photos?

keystone

counting_down_the_days... wrote: »

I've eventually got into the back of the toilet, found its the bit that fills the cistern up that's leaking so stopped the water going into that. I'm not sure how to fix that, so any advice would be gratefully received.

It will be easier to advise you if we know from where it is leaking. Can you post a pic indicating where the leak is from?

However, my main concern is - How do I dry out the floor boards? I've put a towel in just now to soak up some, and I'll leave the vanity units off to let air in, but anything else? And What about the ceiling? It's obviously been leaking for a while

Naturally.

Can I just wait a few weeks for it to dry & paint over the brown mark?

I would say yes to the first and no to the second. YOu need to deal with the stain because if you just go over it with emulsion paint it will leech through. You can either use a stainblocker paint or spirita based undercoat. Then repaint the whole ceiling - new paint just on the patch will stand out like the dogs whatsits against the rest which will now look grubby.

Cheers

counting_down_the_days...

I can't put the picture on I think I need to put it onto some internet site, then upload the website.

It's the screw that goes into the cistern box. I think it just needs tightened, but it looks like it's had some sealant put round it, so I can't move the nut either way.

I think I'm going to get a handy man, or my dad if he can be bothered, as I have quite a few wee jobs needing done. I have another bathroom, so it's not really a huge hassle just having it turned off.

I was really more concerned about drying the floor boards out. The towel has soaked up quite a bit of water & it's not looking wet now, just soaked, iyswim?!

Thanks for the tip about not just painting over the dirty bit! I'm so lazy! Once it's dried out properly I can worry about that.

Thanks for your help & reassurance.

Owain_Moneysaver

Lift a floorboard if possible to allow the void to dry out. If the dampness is extensive you can hire fan blowers with hoses that poke under the floorboards to circulate the air - they're not heaters, just blowers, so don't cost a fortune to run for a couple of days.

Look on the bright side - at least it was a leak from the clean end of the plumbing.

keystone

counting_down_the_days... wrote: »

I can't put the picture on I think I need to put it onto some internet site, then upload the website.

Yes thats right. Imageshack or Photobucket or something similar.

It's the screw that goes into the cistern box. I think it just needs tightened, but it looks like it's had some sealant put round it, so I can't move the nut either way.

Is it like this:



If its leaking from where the knurled nut comes up against the flat plastic washer then it needs tightening. It shouldn't need to be much more than finger tight as the cone washer squashes into the hole in the cistern on the inside and forms the seal. In your minds eye the cistern base will be between the flat plastic washer and the rubber cone in this image. It should not need sealant on it so whoever did that had a bodgery moment. Unfortunately its almost inevitable that then cistern will have to be drained to undo the nut, remove all the sealant and then do it up again.

If its leaking from the bottom of the threaded part where the tap connector is screwed onto it it might need tightening up or it might need a new fibre washer inside. Actualy once you've disconnected it you should replace the fibre washer anyway whatever the condition of the one thats in there.

I think I'm going to get a handy man, or my dad if he can be bothered, as I have quite a few wee jobs needing done. I have another bathroom, so it's not really a huge hassle just having it turned off.

You can do it yourself.

I was really more concerned about drying the floor boards out. The towel has soaked up quite a bit of water & it's not looking wet now, just soaked, iyswim?!

Keep using the towel. It will soak up quite a bit more and shorten the process and lift a board for air circulation if you can.

Thanks for the tip about not just painting over the dirty bit! I'm so lazy! Once it's dried out properly I can worry about that.

Oh its not that you are lazy. Most peeps just overlook the possibility and then stare at the nice bright patch in amongst the slightly grey stuff and wonder how did I manage that?

Cheers

keystone

Owain_Moneysaver wrote: »

Look on the bright side - at least it was a leak from the clean end of the plumbing.

:rotfl:I was thinking that but didn't have the heart to say it.

Cheers

counting_down_the_days...

[QUOTE=Look_on_the_bright_side_-_at_least_it_was_a_leak_from_the_clean_end_of_the_plumbing.[/QUOTE] :eek:

I can't really lift a floor board, as it's really difficult to get into as it is due to the vanity unit. I've opened it up, but the waste pipe runs along the bottom and each side of the toilet is boxed in

Thanks Keystone, This bit is on the inside of the cistern, but on the outside it's a metal nut/bolt. I was thinking of pulling it all out though and replacing the washers as they are really yuk and I might as well whilst I'm in there. I know I can do it myself, I managed to get the front panels off, disconnect the flush handle and stop the water - surely I can tighten a screw It will just take me a while to get around to it :cool: And the last thing I want is the kids mucking about with it. Wouldn't surprise me, if it was them playing with the flush all the time that's loosened it off

Will update you tomorrow, if I get a chance to have another look. Thanks for your help :beer:

mart.vader

You've stopped the water, I guess there's a "servicing" valve, (with a slot for a screwdriver to fit in) ? Or some other type, but you're sure the water's off ?

If not, find another way to turn the water off, before you attempt to disconnect, what KS has posted the pic of, (the inlet assembly.)

counting_down_the_days...

I've turned the screw on the pipe going into the cistern, which stops the water filling the cistern up. I just need to flush the toilet again to completely empty the cistern. I didn't do this initially as was worried it was when I was flushing the toilet it was leaking.

But I'll probably turn off the main water supply, just to be sure I can just see me getting soaked and panicking about what to do! No doubt my husband will remind me the time I decided to change our lights and light switches in the kitchen, but it had old wiring, so we had no downstairs lights for about a week while I pottered away finding out how to fix it :rotfl: He could always try himslef :huh:

mart.vader

counting_down_the_days... wrote: »

I've turned the screw on the pipe going into the cistern, which stops the water filling the cistern up. OK, that sounds like you've turned off the water at the "servicing" valve I just need to flush the toilet again to completely empty the cistern. OK, yes, the cistern needs to be empty, before you mess around with the filling valve - you can get the rest of the water from the bottom with a sponge

But I'll probably turn off the main water supply, just to be sure Yes, you can do this to be doubly sure the water is off, but in practice, once you have turned off the servicing valve, , if no more water comes into the cistern, then the water is off, (which is what you want) :

When the water is off, you can undo the metal nut on the end of the pipe, (you'll need a spanner, or wrench or grips) it should have a fibre or rubber washer inside, then undo the white plastic nut on the bottom of the screwed thread in KS's picture. If it's just a bit loose, you can clean it, wind some PTFE tape round it, and re-tighten, If it's too cruddy, you can replace with new parts as required. You should be able to pull it up and remove the whole inlet assembly.

These links are just to show the type of fitting - if in doubt, take the old one to the plumbers shop and ask for a similar replacement.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/bottom-entry-toilet-cistern-ball-valve/52836

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/420072/?source=123_75

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=fibre+washer

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/420188