Help to stop Shower tray leaking

nickcc

With dot and dab be prepared for the plaster board to come away with the tiles, mine did:(

keystone

plumb1 wrote: »

ok lets play some more, who said they were stone? porcelain? Imo who ever installed a bodge job like that will not have gone to the expense of using them. more like ceramic. Either way they will still cut with a quality diamond blade.

Did you read. I said they LOOK like it to me earlier in the thread. I also said that OP has confirmed either way later on. So nobody has said that that they are. This isn't a competition old son.

And where does it stat that its a temp fix???

Again please read. I said "as I read the OP". Its my interpretation and I clearly stated that to be the case. Stop twisting things please just to find faulty in my argument.. He knows it was originally a bodge. He knows at some stage its going to haver to be done properly, That would be at the time of doing a full refurbishment IMO because the problem he has now can be fixed with minimum effort.

Ya for a limited time. and not good practice.

OK

No i hadn't, but then again, i have been sucking on lead pipe for yrs, so my heads like a October cabbage sometimes.

:rotfl::rotfl:

Again please show me were he says he is doing a full refurb??

He hasn't but is it not a reasonable expectation that at some stage in the future as I have already stated that a full refurb will be undertaken?

All he says is that he is going to remove the floorboards and fit ply.

Actually that was my suggestion right at the top of the thread. Those boards are useless as they are for providing a stable substrate and plying over the top of them isn't going to change that. They should come out and as I also suggested right at the top noggins fitted where necessary.

Imo he shouldn't do that, as it will be a job for him to fit nogging in where he cuts the boards and weaken the floor that is tiled. Best just clean them off and fit ply

Fair enough - you don't agree with me on this in similar fashion that I don't agree with you about necessity of cutting into the existing tiles. You are as entitled to your opinion as I am to mine. For me the primary problem here is the eradication of movement. For you its the something else. So be it.

Cheers

keystone

plumb1 wrote: »

Yes i do, as trays with upstands are ment to be tiled over.

Yes I know that. Mind you some manufacturers MIs can be ignored apparently. Swings and roundabouts?

Yes only in certain circumstances, like using Birch ply.

Your prerogative.

Why do you have to replaster??? adding expense to the customer, when one or two of the sides of the tray can be sunk into the wall, and if you board the wall it will still be 10mm out of square, Far easyier to remove the plaster to the height of the tray, then patch up.

LoL. When all the rotten old plaster falls off the wall or you've taken in back to brickwork when the 1930's concreted on tiles have come off or when taking the old tiles off removes half the plasterboard too what else do you do?

What would happen if you were fitting a standard bath 1700 long and the wall was 20mm out of square??? Do you replaster all the wall???

See above.

Over the years i have fitted all types of trays,

I'm sure you have in which case I am a loss to understand how the modern low profile trays with their nearly vertical sides constitutes a cowboy installation in your view because of their near vertical sides?

You don't have to answer any more otherwise we will just be going round in circles. Lets agree to differ please.

We have different views on how to attack this problem in the most cost effective way. Actually its good that we have. OP has to decide how he will proceed from here or he gets someone along to do it for him who will either do it your way or my way or even athird way.

Cheers

keystone

nickcc wrote: »

With dot and dab be prepared for the plaster board to come away with the tiles, mine did:(

Well thats sort of alluding to my point really. Thats how you end up tearing the whole lot down and redoing it from scratch. We cannot tell what is behind those tiles from the picture. So for me I won't advise that in this case. Theres too much risk. I'd rather advise the much smaller (in my estimation anyway) risk of fixing the movement (which is 99% of the problem actually beause without the movement the previous seal up against the tiles probably held up quite well) and just butting the tray up to the existing tiles and who knows it might just actually fit.

Cheers

cyclonebri1

All this adds to to 1 solid piece of advice from me to be honest, get it done right in the 1st place, yep, marvellous thing hindsight but it's not by chance it will fail if not done correctly, it's a racing certainty.

Legs on shower trays? Don't know where that comes from but they all need a solid base as said, even if they had legs and they were all seated it wouldn't stop movement.

My issue with shower tray installers is that they rely in general, (I'll exclude the ones in the know Keystone), on a single run og silicone around the top of the tray where it meets the tiles.

These trays are several inches high, you can get several runs of sealant in parallel in that height, each of which has to fail for a leak to get through. It's like in engineering where you have double lip oil seals rather than single.

Overkill?, so what mine don't leak :D:D

keystone

fto wrote: »

The tiles are ceramic,the walls are solid with boards on dot & dab.

Thank you. So these would be cuttable but you will go through the PB too whether you like it or not and then you won't have a tiles thickness to worry about it will probably be a large void. If they did it that way theres a fair chance they made the result fairly square anyway.

Take it in stages. Fix the substrate for the tray first so that its stable and there will be no movement. Offer the tray up to the walls. If its square enough for the minimum of sealant then just proceed to bed it down properly.

If you feel the burning need don't start hacking at the tiles before you have done the floor and checked alignment of tray to tiles. I still don't think you need to.

The floor is not tiled.

Yes it isn't. Its sheet vinyl over hardboard.

Cheers

fto

Ok...The ply is in place & the tiles are cut.
Now I have purchased a new tray off gumtree its this one http://www.tapsbathrooms.com/Shower-Enclosures/Quadrant-Shower-Trays/Quadrant-Stone-Resin-Shower-Tray-800x800-PT-TS11.html

Thing is there are no installation instructions. I intend bedding the tray in with a mortar mix, but the tray has voids, do I fill these also?

keystone

They should fill up on their own as you wiggle the tray down into the mix.

Cheers

fto

thank you.
Someone advised me to spray a bit of expanding foam in the voids.
Is that a good idea?

keystone

Errm in a word - No. How big are the voids in all dimensions?

Cheers