Help to stop Shower tray leaking

tanith

If it were me I'd do everything thats been suggested but also get a new solid shower tray ie: not plastic/glass fibre.

fto

Thanks for all the replys.
The bathroom walls are fully tiled,so no tiles are being removed.
Going to take the advice & remove existing floorboards & fit a sheet of ply.

Going to bed the tray in with sand & cement...maybe a new tray.

keystone

googler wrote: »

I liked No. 3 better

I didn't say I could count!! At least you knew what I meant.

Cheers

tanith

The problem will be as Googler says the tiles should come down onto the edge of the tray not run down the wall behind, its always going to eventually cause problems if it stays like that. We've just had the bath removed and a walk in shower tray put in, we made sure that it was plywood underneath the tray was fully supported with a wooden base and butted up to the wall and then the tiles brought down onto the base edge and grouted and sealed after it had settled for a few days. You need to leave the grout/sealant for a full 48hrs to set before you even think about getting it wet.

keystone

fto wrote: »

Going to bed the tray in with sand & cement...maybe a new tray.

If the latter use a stone resin one. It won't move if bedded properly on a firm substrate and you won't need the fancy flexi thingys then. Actually if the job had been done properly in the first place they wouldn't have been needed then either.

A bit of thread creep but the comments about tiling down to the tray are spot on. You'll cause an awful lot of descruction if you try and remove any of those tiles and frankly I wouldn't. So choose a tray with sides as vertical as possible and try to find a matching quadrant tile to cover the gap so you end up with something looking like this:



then silicone both top and bottom edges afterwards. Whilst you are at it run a bead of silicone down the corner ceiling to tray - doesn't look like it was done originally.

Cheers

plumb1_2

If the tiles are not removed and the tray not fitted to the wall and (not the tiles), then retiled on top, you will always have problems with it leaking. i have fitted hundreds of trays and very few walls are square, most need the plaster chipping out to square the tray up.

No need for wbp ply, do they fit it in new house's NO. normal ply will be ok. And fitting a tray with vertical sides will look terrible( cowboy job), in fact trays with vertical sides are ment to to be tiled over the should not be seen.
Also i would recommend fitting a resin tray

You can get a 125mm angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the tiles, then sink the tray into the wall.

googler

fto wrote: »

Thanks for all the replys.
The bathroom walls are fully tiled,so no tiles are being removed.

Then, forgive my cynicism, but ... you'll never fix it that way

keystone

plumb1 wrote: »

If the tiles are not removed and the tray not fitted to the wall and (not the tiles), then retiled on top, you will always have problems with it leaking. i have fitted hundreds of trays and very few walls are square, most need the plaster chipping out to square the tray up.

No need for wbp ply, do they fit it in new house's NO. normal ply will be ok. And fitting a tray with vertical sides will look terrible( cowboy job), in fact trays with vertical sides are ment to to be tiled over the should not be seen.
Also i would recommend fitting a resin tray

You can get a 125mm angle grinder with a diamond blade to cut the tiles, then sink the tray into the wall.

Why don't you read my post properly and in context before you start being insulting? I dont agree with you about standard ply but then again I didn't say marine ply I said WPB. You have your opinion and I have mine. Having "fitted hundreds of trays" then you'll also be fully aware that some stone resin tray manufacturers specify birch ply - now thats mega expensive.

I have never ever ever chipped away plaster to fit a tray. What were you saying about "cowboy" job?

He'll be needing a low profile stone resin tray anyway to most closely match the one he's taken out and guess what - their sides are near vertical because they are, umm, low profile or are you still fitting the ones with 30 degree sides that require a step ladder to get into?

But thank you for agreeing about using a resin tray though.

Cheers

keystone

Both plum and googler are right if OP is doing it from scratch BUT he isn't. Those tiles will not come off easily without doing a serious amount of damage both to tiles and substrate and OP will end up having to retile the lot. To me they are either porc or natural stone and I'd hate to have to try and get a straight line through those with a smal angle grinder and still not manage to carve a hole in the substrate with subsequent damage to any tanking.

First I'd leave well alone and second retiling is not what OP wants to do either but thats what will happen. He needs a compromise which won't be perfect by any means but it will necessarily be a compromise and it will be better than what he's got now until he wants to completely refurb the bathroom.

Cheers

googler

keystone wrote: »

Both plum and googler are right if OP is doing it from scratch BUT he isn't. Those tiles will not come off easily without doing a serious amount of damage both to tiles and substrate and OP will end up having to retile the lot. To me they are either porc or natural stone and I'd hate to have to try and get a straight line through those with a smal angle grinder and still not manage to carve a hole in the substrate with subsequent damage to any tanking.

Judging by the picture, I'm doubtful that anyone has put any tanking in there.... tiles straight onto plasterboard?