Help! Branded or unbranded tyres?

jase1

£125 a tyre for P6000s? What have you been smoking?

P6000s are fairly cheap tyres (£55 each from Camskill for 205/55/16, only about £15 more than the cheapest ones).

I don't particularly like these tyres, but as I acquired a pair for free from a seller who sent the wrong ones and couldn't be bothered to collect them back, I'll live with them when they go on the Mondeo in April/May (currently has the winter wellies on).

StrongWork

I'd be going down the midrange branded route tbh - Toyo, Kumho and the like. At the sizes the OP is looking at, they'd be quite reasonable.

Plus FWIW, new tyres go on the rear.

learningaboutinsurance

jase1 wrote: »

£125 a tyre for P6000s? What have you been smoking?

P6000s are fairly cheap tyres (£55 each from Camskill for 205/55/16, only about £15 more than the cheapest ones).

I don't particularly like these tyres, but as I acquired a pair for free from a seller who sent the wrong ones and couldn't be bothered to collect them back, I'll live with them when they go on the Mondeo in April/May (currently has the winter wellies on).

Only Marlboro lights :rotfl: ? That was what i was quoted by the garage lol i straight away said on your bike.

Thats way as my post states i will be likely going with the Arrowhead tyres or Goodyear efficient grip at £55 for former and £70 for latter (all inclusive with fitting and Balancing)

jase1

Think you must mean Arrowspeed...

These are rebranded Nexen, and not bad budget tyres at all actually.

timbo58

agree with most posters.
the tyres are the only thing between you and the road, investing in good tyres is always money well spent.

learningaboutinsurance

jase1 wrote: »

Think you must mean Arrowspeed...

These are rebranded Nexen, and not bad budget tyres at all actually.

My Baddd:o

Arrowspeed is what i meant to say. thats what fitted in on my car at the moment its good for the price. but i think i will go for Goodyear Efficient grip

john_white

Gilbert2 wrote: »

My car maker recommends that I change the oil every 10k. I once changed it at 10,001 miles.

Guess what? It still works.

Ok so you've missed the point. Let me explain.

A tyre manufacturer recommends you put the newest tyres on the rear. This does not mean (as you put it) it will not work. As with your car that you diligently followed the manufacturers advice on. By not changing the oil on time, the manufacturer has not stated that the car will no longer work, but, that for optimum performance you should replace the oil (and filter by the way) every 10,000 miles. Which you did.

So I am not saying the car won't work if you don't put the newer tyres on the rear, just that it is advisable to do so.

Hope that clears it up for you.


Why are you so against people having a different view based on facts?

red_eye

steve-L wrote: »

Why not suggest replacing TWO tyres.... at £45 and keeping the best 2 and sticking them on the back wheels

Depending how good/bad they are and having a rear wheel blowout on a FWD car is less frightening than on a front wheel.... (should it happen)

Then save to replace the other 2 tyres.

New tyres (which would have better grip then the old) should go on the back of a FWD. FWD cars are designed to understeer, understeer is good when considering safety.

OP budget tyres are bad and you only save a few pounds comapred to mid range tyres

red_eye

Gilbert2 wrote: »

Completely disagree. The driver is the single most important safety feature of any vehicle.

You can have £140+ superduper tyres but they won't be much use if you are rubbernecking and have a collision for not paying attention.

In any case, mechanically, why focus on the one feature as being most important? Again, the quality of tyres would not be much use if your brakes failed.

It's all relative.

Brakes should never completely fail. all cars have two circuit master cylinders and an emergency brake aka hand brake and in case of the s#!t hitting the fan in a non maintained, insured, mot,ved vehicle there is always engine braking. where did you get your licence from? lego land?

skivenov wrote: »

Speaking as a qualified tyre fitter, I can't agree with that.

On a front wheel drive vehicle, your front wheels are doing far more than your back wheels, as they're gripping, steering, driving and providing at least half of the braking under normal circumstances, and most of it (generally 70%+ due to weight transfer) in emergency braking situations.

Based on this, it makes sense to have the best tyres doing the hardest job.

cars are designed to understeer, understeer is safer than oversteer (unless experience has tought you otherwise)

new tyres have more grip than older tyres so old tyres on the back= more likely to oversteer.
Yes the front wheels are doing more work then the rear but they are well within limits( think grip circles) and with more weight being at the front the limits have increased.

Weight transfer depends on suspension design and center of gravity. it will shift every time you change direction and velocity.

red_eye

skivenov wrote: »

Actually, I'd say the fact it's only a 1.2 Corsa is a good reason to fit a better tyre.

It's likely to have relatively skinny tyres, no traction control, ABS, relatively rudimentary suspension (probably not have the anti-roll bars that higher specced cars will have), and a fairly high centre of gravity.

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL a 1.2 corsa is a shopping trolly used to get the shopping and taxi the kids to school and may be do the odd motorway

the corsa has the same Macpherson shut at the front and beam axle rear as nearly (rudimentary comapred to a double wishbone set up) all FWD cars and it has an anti roll bar on the front this is all pretty much standard since way before the 80's
high center of gravity? it is between a landrover and an open wheel race chassis roughly the same place as every other road car

you didt get your tyre fitting qualification from kwik fit did you?