Joiner input please - chipboard floor cracking/squeaky

pawlala

I don't know whether this is related (although I suspect it probably is) but when I open the kitchen door (room underneath problem floor) quickly the ceiling makes an almighty cracking sound. Like the pressure/air change in the kitchen as the door is opened is causing this to happen.

It isn't a new thing so I don't think I can put this down to last week's work.

Furts

pawlala wrote: »

I don't know whether this is related (although I suspect it probably is) but when I open the kitchen door (room underneath problem floor) quickly the ceiling makes an almighty cracking sound. Like the pressure/air change in the kitchen as the door is opened is causing this to happen.

It isn't a new thing so I don't think I can put this down to last week's work.

Is the door binding? Is the gap at the top edge tight or sloping? Might this area be giving unintended support for your floor?

pawlala

The door has a good straight fit, not rubbing with the frame at all. But I can generate a ceiling "crack" with its waft!

googler

pawlala wrote: »

I don't know whether this is related (although I suspect it probably is) but when I open the kitchen door (room underneath problem floor) quickly the ceiling makes an almighty cracking sound. Like the pressure/air change in the kitchen as the door is opened is causing this to happen.

That's exactly it, and you should be able to replicate the crack by pushing up on the ceiling from within this room.

pawlala

yes I can, just tried it - do I have a known problem on my hands?

Furts

pawlala wrote: »

yes I can, just tried it - do I have a known problem on my hands?

Yes! This should not occur. The ceiling should be opened up to find why this occurs. It could be the plasterboard is not correctly fixed.

cyclonebri1

All the evidence is adding up and there really is only one conclusion, the beams are likely to be delaminating, or at least 1 or more is.

You now have the VW beetle syndrome, the doors were such a good fit/seal, that the car was virtually air tight. You could hardly close the doors without force as it pressurised the interior.

You have the same issue in the room below the suspect joists, except the VW was built to a lot better standard than your roof appears to be.
There should be no movement in the floor from under just under atmospheric pressure, it probably equates to a child standing in the room above. Think heavy furniture load and you have reason to worry.

I can't see any end to this before the beams are toatally exposed, Wether that is from above or below depends on the domestic situation.

Sorry, it doesn't sound good.

Just a thought as I type.

Get a couple of burly blokes maybe 3, to stand in the centre of the floor.
You need a length of timber, nothing too heavy.
Screw a woodscrew into the end of the timber and adjust it until it "measures" the downstairs floor to ceiling height.
Remove the hefty chaps and see how much the ceiling has risen.
This can then be measured in terms of the gap from the screw head to ceiling

At least you will have determined if there is significant flexing, sorry I don't have any chart of acceptable limits of movement.

pawlala

thanks. we've gone from glue not being used to knackered beams. Now I am confused!

Furts

Sorry pawlala...

You had not previously mentioned the ceiling/door situation, and none of us have witnessed the problem. The gist is it could be a number of issues but I think we are all agreed either the floor comes up, or now, alternatively the ceiling comes down. The latter is the easier - but needs more making good.

Ultimately, the builder has to decide how to investigate and rectify the problem. All of us can offer threads - but it is done from a distance and with the best of intentions.

Sorry if this reads like a reprimand - it is not intended to be one!

pawlala

thanks Furts

I have been inside all afternoon drying washing with the heating on, and while the cracking has not gone away completely, it is definaltey better than is was this morning. It seems that my floors don't have much tolerance to cooler temperatures, which is a shame as I prefer it cooler. Its now about 22C indoors. This may sound like the goalposts are moving again! I am happy that I know how to partially remedy the situation myself, disappointed that it will mean higher bills!!!

If it is the floors contracting and expanding, I don't know whether the builder will be able to solve the problem for all temperatures...?