Wheel Alignment Problem (Track Rod End) [Solved]

closed

Then whoever does it would need a spanner, most garages have them.

I'm surprised the mot garage didn't offer to fix it for nothing, assuming they do repairs. It would probably take less than a minute.

red_eye

closed wrote: »

Then whoever does it would need a spanner, most garages have them.

I'm surprised the mot garage didn't offer to fix it for nothing, assuming they do repairs. It would probably take less than a minute.

drilling it out takes more then 1min

forgotmyname

1 minute to drill it out and 3 months of training for health and safety on howto use a drill.

Wig

Sorry to bump again, just returned from my holiday.
But I can't imagine not being able to easily remove a small split pin, drilling out seems so over the top and innappropriate method, and I'm not surprised you broke your drillbits.

The pin may be facing the wrong way to be able to drift it out (i.e. it will not be possible to put the drift in and hammer due to the location of the hole)

The reason there is a loop on the other end of the pin is so that you can pass something through it and then hammer (tap gently) away from the hole and pull the pin out that way.


Yes I've had some awkward split pins in my time, but
1. Most pins come out very easily
2. Those that are awkward will always come out either drifting from the non loop end or pulling from the loop end.

Crabman

Update: one of the pins was able to be removed & replaced without issues so that's all that was needed on one side. They didn't need to drill it out. Wig was correct

On the other side the castellated nut was sheared & it looked like it was mostly friction that had kept it on. :eek: The garage said they couldn't put that one back on (I had a look at it and it looked almost entirely bare). They were prepared to replace the castellated nut but would have had to order one which would only have arrived the next day. Instead, we ordered a single track rod end which was delivered within the hour. Cost an extra £15 for the part.

It wasn't the ideal solution but the total cost was £70 which included a Hunter wheel alignment. I suspect we'll never know how or when the sheared nut and broken pins happened but at least it's sorted now. Thanks again for the replies :beer:

P.S: Mattyprice - they've owned the car since it was 2 years old.

red_eye

Wig wrote: »

What on Earth would you require new track rod ends for? It's only a missing/broken split pin. You either replace with a new pin or just change the nut to a Nyloc one.

The reason new track rod ends makes no sense what-so-ever is that the old ones would have to be removed anyway, which means the split pin would need to be removed anyway, and once it is removed....all you need ....seeing as there is nothing wrong with your track road ends is a new split pin...........UNLESS they are thinking that eventually the track rod end ball joint **might wear**, and so you might aswell have new ones fitted while you are paying an arm and leg for new split pins.. but equally they **might not** wear and could last another 10 years.

This is one job for serious DIY contemplation,...... Try to get the pins or nuts or both. before starting the work. You should be able to do it within 30mins each side, or half the time, if you can jack up the middle of the car (both wheels at once) or have ramps you can drive up.

are you on crack??? jack the front in the middle?!? what you mean on the sump?

it makes sense to change them as they do wear this way you only pay labour once track rods are only £6 each

red_eye

Wig wrote: »

Sorry to bump again, just returned from my holiday.
But I can't imagine not being able to easily remove a small split pin, drilling out seems so over the top and innappropriate method, and I'm not surprised you broke your drillbits.

The pin may be facing the wrong way to be able to drift it out (i.e. it will not be possible to put the drift in and hammer due to the location of the hole)

The reason there is a loop on the other end of the pin is so that you can pass something through it and then hammer (tap gently) away from the hole and pull the pin out that way.


Yes I've had some awkward split pins in my time, but
1. Most pins come out very easily
2. Those that are awkward will always come out either drifting from the non loop end or pulling from the loop end.

you cant do any of that with a rusted pin or one that has its middle stuck in the joint and the hole is facing the brake disc which is were this comes in handy http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=90+degree+drill&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=4281926615246689274&sa=X&ei=CInfUIipNqmH0AXRqIHQAg&ved=0CGAQ8wIwAA