Wheel Alignment Problem (Track Rod End) [Solved]

red_eye

Crabman wrote: »

Thanks, I believe the split pin they are referring to is the one in the castellated nut (the one that secures the track rod end to the steering arm).

In what circumstances would both the offside and nearside split pins break, if not during front wheel alignment?

there is no need to remove the pins. the rod has a ball on the rack end so it is free to rotate. somewere in the middle of the rod there is two flat sides and a locking nut.
loosen this nut and get an open ended spanner on the flats of the rod and turn to lengthen or shorten the rod


right side is where the ball joint screws on to

red_eye

Crabman wrote: »

Thanks for the replies.

The vehicle hasn't had any suspension work carried out. The only work done between last year's MOT and the one this week has been a service (where the wheels were removed to routinely examine the brakes) and of course the separate wheel alignment job.

forgotmyname - I don't know specifically, all I know is that it's the split pin that goes through the castellated nut.

I'm more puzzled now as to how this could have happened. The split pin doesn't appear to be a load bearing part so I still don't understand how both nearside and offside could have broken within the same timeframe if the alignment job wasn't the cause.

Does this require new track rod ends or should it be possible to extract the broken pins and simply replace them? If the latter I'm thinking 0.5-1hr labour time to complete the job??

a steady hand, good aim and a sharp 1-1.5mm drill bit. or if you have a 1mm drift that would work.

mattyprice4004

Crabman wrote: »

Found just one garage willing to try and remove and replace the broken split pins for around £30. Other garages weren't really interested in that and said new track rod ends would make more economic sense.

I've also asked about nyloc nuts (thanks for suggesting) and have been told it's best to check that the MOT tester is ok with that as some track rod end designs require a castle nut + retaining pin. Wasn't able to get in touch with the MOT tester today to ask.

Meanwhile, I've obtained a quote of £80 to replace the nearside + offside track rod ends & align the front wheels with a hunter alignment system. The vehicle is an Almera (95-00 model I think - not my car) with about 110k mileage. This seems like a good option, but what are your views?

you skipped over my question - have they owned the car from new?

vaio

red_eye wrote: »

a steady hand, good aim and a sharp 1-1.5mm drill bit. or if you have a 1mm drift that would work.

When ever I've tried to drill out spilt pins I just end up with a broken drill bit stuck in there too. Drift/pin punch is the way to go but the problem is that bits of suspension get in the way and visibility is crap with the joint in place so it's likely you'll need to crack the taper, then you'll struggle to punch the remains out of a joint that's moving around free of the upright so you unscrew it from the track rod and hold it in a vice.

Once you've got to that stage you'd be mad to put the old on back on when a new one is so cheap (and that's assuming you haven't knocked a hole in the boot whilst splitting the joint)

Nylock is the way to go

red_eye

vaio wrote: »

When ever I've tried to drill out spilt pins I just end up with a broken drill bit stuck in there too. Drift/pin punch is the way to go but the problem is that bits of suspension get in the way and visibility is crap with the joint in place so it's likely you'll need to crack the taper, then you'll struggle to punch the remains out of a joint that's moving around free of the upright so you unscrew it from the track rod and hold it in a vice.

Once you've got to that stage you'd be mad to put the old on back on when a new one is so cheap (and that's assuming you haven't knocked a hole in the boot whilst splitting the joint)

Nylock is the way to go

thats why I said steady hands:p

vaio

You can be as steady as you like, if you are using a 1-1.5mm drill bit in a hand held drill under a car with poor access and visibility then it is going to snap.

I've seen bits that size snap when having the chuck tightened up or because some looked at it in a funny way.

forgotmyname

Small drill bits like that need to be made from a super strong material thats not been discovered yet and needs to spin at 30 billion rpm.

So a battery drill has no chance.

red_eye

vaio wrote: »

You can be as steady as you like, if you are using a 1-1.5mm drill bit in a hand held drill under a car with poor access and visibility then it is going to snap.

I've seen bits that size snap when having the chuck tightened up or because some looked at it in a funny way.

90 degree angle drill FTW

closed

Unless I'm missing something, this all seems a lot of fuss over something so small



knock it out with a hammer and nail, fit new one, costing a few pence

red_eye

closed wrote: »

Unless I'm missing something, this all seems a lot of fuss over something so small



knock it out with a hammer and nail, fit new one, costing a few pence

not as simple as that, the location of the hole depends on its location when the castle nut was done up,