Wheel Alignment Problem (Track Rod End) [Solved]

vaio

epninety wrote: »

I agree they were probably missing for some time, but the OP hasn't mentioned what the vehicle is?

On older Land Rovers, it's common to see sheared pins where mechanics couldn't get the pins out, and use the nut to cut them (I've been known to do it myself, but I always replace the pins!). No need to take them off to do wheel alignment though, except if one side of the track rod or drag link is seized - when you might pop one end out to make a coarse adjustment, or get more leverage on the stuck joint.

So unlikely but possible if on a similar vehicle (Pajero, G-Wagen etc.) but more likely to have been off at some other time to replace joint boots, wheel bearings etc.

Replacing them is a simple job, but occasionally the remains won't come out easily and it might be cheaper (if paying a mechanic) to replace the joint.

If they have been cut then getting the remains out of their hole can be (is almost always) a real sod of a job unless you pop the taper so you can see what you are doing etc.

leaving the taper & joint undisturbed and just swapping the nuts to nylocs is the easiest solution by a country mile

forgotmyname

Maybe they were broken for a long time and this time they happened to be a bit more observant.

Just fit a new split pin. Pennies from a car shop.

Use a nail to drive any remains out of the hole. Flatten the end slightly
to act like a drift.

Robisere

forgotmyname wrote: »

Maybe they were broken for a long time and this time they happened to be a bit more observant.

Just fit a new split pin. Pennies from a car shop.

Use a nail to drive any remains out of the hole. Flatten the end slightly
to act like a drift.

And if the nut has moved/become insecure?

You need to make sure that is secure, find a spanner/socket to fit, before fitting the new pin. Vibration and 'road thump' will have possibly loosened it.

mattyprice4004

So I take it you've owned the car from new then?

Crabman

Found just one garage willing to try and remove and replace the broken split pins for around £30. Other garages weren't really interested in that and said new track rod ends would make more economic sense.

I've also asked about nyloc nuts (thanks for suggesting) and have been told it's best to check that the MOT tester is ok with that as some track rod end designs require a castle nut + retaining pin. Wasn't able to get in touch with the MOT tester today to ask.

Meanwhile, I've obtained a quote of £80 to replace the nearside + offside track rod ends & align the front wheels with a hunter alignment system. The vehicle is an Almera (95-00 model I think - not my car) with about 110k mileage. This seems like a good option, but what are your views?

Wig

What on Earth would you require new track rod ends for? It's only a missing/broken split pin. You either replace with a new pin or just change the nut to a Nyloc one.

The reason new track rod ends makes no sense what-so-ever is that the old ones would have to be removed anyway, which means the split pin would need to be removed anyway, and once it is removed....all you need ....seeing as there is nothing wrong with your track road ends is a new split pin...........UNLESS they are thinking that eventually the track rod end ball joint **might wear**, and so you might aswell have new ones fitted while you are paying an arm and leg for new split pins.. but equally they **might not** wear and could last another 10 years.

This is one job for serious DIY contemplation,...... Try to get the pins or nuts or both. before starting the work. You should be able to do it within 30mins each side, or half the time, if you can jack up the middle of the car (both wheels at once) or have ramps you can drive up.

vaio

maybe, but as I mentioned earlier, getting the rusted & bent remains of the split pin out of the close fitting hole it is in without cracking the taper will be difficult and can be impossible because of access problems.

Then the garage is into cracking the taper (with attendant risk of damage to rubber boot etc ) and then the struggle to get the remains of the old pin out, given what track rod ends cost the uncertainty makes it not worth the risk.

I'd treat them like cam belts & bearings, if you ever need to take them off then it's silly not to put a new one on.

As before, the quickest/easiest/cheapest solution is a a couple of nylocks which will avoid all these problems, unscrew old nut, screw new one on. A 2 min job once the car is in the air

Daz2009

Quite often the only way to get broken rusted split pins out is with an oxy acetylene torch but this is best done with the track rod end in the vice so I can see where the garage is coming from re replacement

forgotmyname

Does sound strange that a modern car still uses a castle nut and split pin.
But its an easy job poke the pin out.

A trackrod end used to be about £5 - £10. Easily replace both sides and possibly even track it inside an hour.

Here its this easy... Yes its an X-Trail one but its similar and a used because its a better picture. The almera one is similar.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-X-Trail-2001-2007-Outer-Track-Tie-Rod-End-LH-RH-N-S-O-S-2-0-2-5-2-2-/271111418303?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D150473105125%26ps%3D54

Wig

I don't see why the taper would move, the nut will be done up tight. the split pin would be in the hole. You remove the pin using suitable tool through the "needle eye" levering it out or drift it out...the taper goes nowhere. New pin, job done.

Oxy acetelyne torch for a split pin?

The new el cheapo ling long track rod might not last as long as the original you just threw away.