Sash windows

dmlt

I've been in this indusry for years. Some/most of the comments in this thread are laughable :rotfl:

If a window needs repainting - get it repainted. They have and will last a life time.

If the window is rotten because it hasn't been maintained for the last 15 years (as with most) replace it.

The cost of continually repairing and painting a rotten window will be far more expensive than replacing over 10 years - to restore or paint a sash window properly will cost around £800 and should be done every 2-3years. To make a window look pretty will cost £200 and will need doing every year. Niether will solve draughts or double glaze your window or stop it ratteling in the wind.

The mighton draft products are ok as quick fix and need to be installed by some one who knows whatthey are doing - I have seen some distasters. The pile dosn't last long and once your decorater has painted them they do nothing.

Replacing in hardwood or Accoya are the best options. But yu must check the designs of the windows. All look good as sample but you really need to look at the draught sealing, construction and paint system used.

We use either of the above timbers and use Teknos water based paintes. They should last for 8 years but I would reccomend 5 years before repainting and cills every 2. The diffrenece is though there is no rubbing down and you just clean dry and paint.

Our windows start at about £1800 fitted and for an average Victorian house with two bays and one one window above the front door would cost around £15,000.

We do do PVC box sash as well - they should last about 25 years with proper maintenace and the same would cost £8,500. We finish the inside with wood and survey them properly so they look good outside too. (most are surveyed too small and and look very chunky outside)

Those of you who turn your nose up at PVC don't forget not all people have the budget - it's probably why they drive a 10 year old fiesta and not an 09 BMW X5 for the school run......:mad::D

So long and short - need painting paint - rotten replace.

blueskywindows.co.uk

leveller2911

SPAM ????....... The post was generally pretty accurate IMO until you put your web address on Dmlt and its your 1st post. Might be an idea to look at the site rules about advertising......Welcome to the board though:D;)..


Totally agree about the pile system draught proofing, I don't like it as it clogs with dirt and paint.Just for interest what system do you use?Will look into the Teknos paint system, not heard of that before.Not been a great fan of waterbased in the past except Supadec as the base coat doesn't penetrate like oil based.


Lastly Dmlt this is a forum and its there for debate .Everyone has a view and I don't agree with some but wouldn't go as far as calling them "Laughable"....;)

dmlt

SPAM?? Sorry if I realised I would have left it off.

Water based paints are far safer to use with far less VOC's than oil based alternitives. Also the don't crack and peel. The Teknos system is a spray applied water based paint developed for use with timber windows. One base coat, two top coat.

As for draught sealing we use pile system (far higher quality than that in those kits) which is hidden on the actual sash. So when it comes to painting the sash is removed and pile should be replaced - or removed whilst being painted (easy to do as only clipped in at one end)

It does sound a bit like a sales pitch but how else do I put it accross. Information is requested by those who don't know so I'm providing as best I can what I know. There are lots of things i don't know and would hope if I had some questions they would be answered fairly and educate me in my lack of knownledge in that area.

leveller2911

Hi Dmlt,
paint system sounds good,I tend to use the Dulux weathershield system which has recently gone over to a waterbased basecoat from the spirit based one.How do you get on with it with regards to boxframes given that generally speaking only certain parts of the pulley stiles,part beads and staff beads are painted?. Do you spray the whole lot as waterbased doesn't drag as much as oil based?

Interested in the draught strip you use.Can I ask who makes it?

bambammy

First post

21-04-2007, 12:40 PM

Hustling really isn't fitting.

yellowplum

I have been living in a property with 17 sash windows that all need replacing at some point. However it is always laughable to see that we get ripped off over here so much with costs. It doesn't cost that much to make a sash window.

Nevertheless, I would agree that the type of wood used and the quality of both the finite products are most important. Spring balances are a wast of money as they fail too frequently. Weights are an issue and it depends on cost.

Glass is entirely your choice as to what you put into the pains. Glassing bars always add extra cost because there is more work involved, as do horns and other quirks.

I obtained my sash windows from Europe (Lithuania), they are made from European Oak and are painting in my colour choices (which is two colours). They are using paints that I supplied rather than the standard Sickens paint that they use. Also I have supplied the fittings, sash lifts, locks etc that I wanted (Hafele have a nice selection of quality products).

If you are not having them made from Hardwood (which there are various choices and each person will recommend different products to you) then I suggest you look a little more closely at the Pine that is to be used as some softwood (like the stuff you get from B&Q) isn't very good quality and will not last. Always make sure that a hardwood cill is used as this is the first area of a window to go. Make sure you paint them and keep them in good shape, if you do then there is no reason that they shouldn't last another 100 years.

leveller2911

@ Shaunearle ,Nearly every post you written since joining is to promote the website you mention...Try looking at the site rules about spamming.....

spam reported

leveller2911

yellowplum wrote: »

I have been living in a property with 17 sash windows that all need replacing at some point. However it is always laughable to see that we get ripped off over here so much with costs. It doesn't cost that much to make a sash window.

Really? do you mean boxframe sash windows or casements?Further on in your post you mention having your windows made in Lithuania ,so whats the cost of living in Lithuania? How much does it cost to run a business there?

When/if theres a problem with the windows will they come over and fix them?How do you know how much it costs to make a window as from your posts your clearly not a Joiner?...They say a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing..

My advice to people is get recommendations for small Joinery workshops and get 3 quotes.Small local firms live and die by their reputation ,bad news travels fast and most will sort any problems quickly and properly..



Nevertheless, I would agree that the type of wood used and the quality of both the finite products are most important. Spring balances are a wast of money as they fail too frequently. Weights are an issue and it depends on cost.

Absolute rubbish, Spiral balances will fail eventually but so do sash cords and pulleys.Its costs a fair bit more to make a true boxframe window than it does to make one for spiral balances.


Glass is entirely your choice as to what you put into the pains. Glassing bars always add extra cost because there is more work involved, as do horns and other quirks.

Not entirely true either, machining a sash horn takes very little time about 3 seconds once the moulder set and glazing bars(note the spelling) don't take that long to do unless curved..



I obtained my sash windows from Europe (Lithuania), they are made from European Oak and are painting in my colour choices (which is two colours). They are using paints that I supplied rather than the standard Sickens paint that they use. Also I have supplied the fittings, sash lifts, locks etc that I wanted (Hafele have a nice selection of quality products).


Making sash windows in European Oak and then painting them is a crime.For one thing Oak doesn't take paint well (unless a stain like Solignum) and why would you want to paint them?.You would be surprised how many "Oak" windows are not actually Oak but are in fact stained Idigbo"..Just out of interest what paint did you supply?

If you are not having them made from Hardwood (which there are various choices and each person will recommend different products to you) then I suggest you look a little more closely at the Pine that is to be used as some softwood (like the stuff you get from B&Q) isn't very good quality and will not last. Always make sure that a hardwood cill is used as this is the first area of a window to go. Make sure you paint them and keep them in good shape, if you do then there is no reason that they shouldn't last another 100 years.

Hardwood cills if made from timbers like Meranti will not last much longer than softwoods.Good quality hardwood windows cost little more than softwood so its a no brainer, Good hardwood everytime...Good hardwoods are European oak,Utile,Iroko and Sapele...Decent hardwoods include Obeche,Idigbo but not Meranti......Douglas Fir is decent too...

The pines that B&Q and the likes sell are "Whitewood pines" Joinery tends to be made from "Redwood Pines" and you get various grades of these.....

fionadc

I see a lot of people saying restoration is better however Im not sure thats right for my property. Just wondering what people think....

Have a flat with sash windows (and one bay window) that has not been maintained AT ALL by the looks of it. Got to be honest and say I havent done anything to them in the 3 years Ive owned the property. One window is now so bad I can actually see a gap between the glass and frame at one part. Surely its better I just replace these completely?

I also dont understand how restoration can always be the most cost effective option since surely most old windows are single glazed? If I were looking to buy a property then newer windows would appeal more to me (assuming they have kept with the look of the building) but I might be missing something!

The flat below has actually replaced their windows with white framed windows (Im assuming UPVC) so replacing mine would probably fit in more than the current wooden style.

sameoldme

The french doors at the back of our house used, fourteen years ago, to keep the cold air out. Now even I, who have got the hang of the idea that you should wear more clothes in winter, have to admit they neet repairing.does anyone have any good experiences of this? In the Oxford area even? That would be just dandy. So far I have been quoted £1700 per french door (yup, that's 3,000+ per pair, and you do need two!). My feeling is that these jokers are 'aving a larff. What does anyone in the forum think? I am B. cold, so any advice really welcome.

Cheers.