Storage heater doesn't work (fuse?)

Lifeforms

I thought the fuse in that socket would be higher (from reading here, and google) if it's a 13a I can replace that when I buy some. No to covering. Only thing near is the wicker cat bed, but that's about 2 inches away from the front of the unit, with nothing blocking it below or on top.

[Deleted User]

Hi,

well if you want to change 13a fuse tonight, would let you know in morning if that was the culprit, you could borrow one from kettle or other appliance.

Switch off at mains first.

grahamc2003

Ectophile wrote: »

An FCU (fused connection unit - the thing in your picture) will only take up to a 13A fuse. Each storage heater shouldn't need more than that anyway.

If you have other heaters, and they are still working, then it won't be the one in the consumer unit/fuse box.

The fault could also be inside the storage heater - perhaps a blown thermal fuse, faulty thermostat or dead element.

Each storage heater should be on it's own fused circuit from the consumer unit. Also, a 3.4kW heater requires around 14A, which would blow a 13A fuse.

There could be several reasons why the storage heater didn't heat up. Fuse in consumer unit, power cut overnight, input settings settings on SH set too low, thermal cutout thrown (due to overheating, not necessarily caused by clothes drying on it) which would have happened the previous time it was used, thermostat within heater failed causing overheating ... that's about all I can think of - can't be element failure since there are 3 of them in his model, and the chance of all 3 failing at the same time is negligable.

[Deleted User]

Hi,

an easier way to check the fuse, remove fuse from heater and try it in kettle plug.

Switch off at mains first.

Cardew

Ectophile wrote: »

If you have other heaters, and they are still working, then it won't be the one in the consumer unit/fuse box.

Not so - they will be separately fused.

dieselglider

Each storage heater should be on it's own fused circuit from the consumer unit. Also, a 3.4kW heater requires around 14A, which would blow a 13A fuse.

Good point, though not necessarily true. The breaking current of a 13A fuse is probably closer to 15/16 Amps.

But, assuming the storage heater pictured is a 3.4kW, then it is stretching the limits of the pictured switch as well as the fuse. It should be a 20A double pole switch, in my opinion, and have a dedicated fuse at the fuse board.

grahamc2003

dieselglider wrote: »

Good point, though not necessarily true. The breaking current of a 13A fuse is probably closer to 15/16 Amps.

The circuit for a storage heater shouldn't go through a 13A fused switch like the one photographed. I bet if the op exposed the fuse, he'll probably find it wrapped in tin foil, or 20A fuse wire or something equally as concerning (if indeed that switch controls that heater)...

Lifeforms

I am still reading! But after me and a screw driver versus the fuse panel on the switch ended with me taking off the skin off my knuckle and hurting my finger, I'm planning another attack with it in a bit when I find a more suitable implement.
The cut out to lever it is at the bottom, not the side, like the picture,so it's being a pain. I will report back in a bit with what fuse it is.

The switch definitely does control the storage heater though, I switch it off, nothing heats over night, switched on it does(did!), and even tracing the wiring from heater to switch matches.