Mondeo Glow Plug Light Flashing

forgotmyname

Hope its a good garage... Someone recently got told their injectors were faulty £600 - £800 estimate.

But the code was for a turbo actuator fault. Actuator/Turbo fixed and no more light.

Too many ahh its a diesel the injectors must be gone by now or not far off.

scaredofdebt

The garage has read the codes and shown me the printout and it is the injectors, or at least one of them!

The readout doesn't go into any great detail, I can either change all 4 of them or he can do some test for about £40 that will tell me if it's just one injector or several.

I can't afford all 4 replacing at around £150 a time, anyone got any tips to save some cash, is it worth risking getting a second hand one off eBay?

How much labour is involved with replacing and recoding injectors?

Edit: Garage has quoted around 2 hours labour to replace and recode 4 injectors around the £130 mark.

forgotmyname

Is it worth spending £730 on it?

2nd hand one off ebay maybe no better than the one your removing. Then factor in the costs to recode the injector.

£130 a time to replace and recode? Risky.

scaredofdebt

Good question, it is worth it if the car lasts me another 6 months at around 3k miles per month!

I've now done 700 miles since the light last came on, will keep an eye on it. The injectors I've had a look at have done 80k and the seller claims they are in perfect working order having been leak tested, but can I trust them?

I know the car very well so would rather spend ~£700 on it than a similar amount on another car I have no experience of. Pity I don't have £700 kicking around at the moment, just started a new job and don't get paid until the end of November.

Hopefully it will last until then, wish me luck!

Thanks again.

forgotmyname

scaredofdebt wrote: »

I know the car very well so would rather spend ~£700 on it than a similar amount on another car I have no experience of.

+1

I just said the same on another thread. I would spend more than the cars worth if the rest seemed OK. Rather than buy an unknown car.

Injector leakoff test is not 100% proof that the injectors are not at fault. A quick simple guide to say they maybe or one maybe.

But not proof they are not. They need to be removed and tested properly.

scaredofdebt

900 miles since the light last came on and it happened again yesterday on the same bit of road it happened before.

It's a fairly long, steep drag with an overtaking lane on it, I was accellerating reasonably hard to get past one of those people who likes to do 40 in a NSL and then decides to put their foot down a bit when someone tries to overtake.

This time I managed to keep it going up the hill despite the loss of power and just switched the engine off and on again once I got to the top, my years of experience in IT shining through! Warning light stayed out, drove the remaining 50 miles home without issue.

I'll use this bit of road to keep an eye on how quickly things are deteriorating and then replace the injector(s) when it gets to the stage where I can't get up the hill without having to stop.

Funnily enough it's fine up steeper hills where the speeds are a bit lower.

forgotmyname

What if you pulled out accelerating hard then the car behind thinks thats a good idea and follows. Then as you reach the NSL your car loses power and starts to slow. With the car behind standing on his brakes wondering why your slowing rapidly with no brake lights.

scaredofdebt

Took the car to a second garage who did some more thorough testing for the same cash, £45.

Report says I need two new injectors due to leakage and low pressure, £430 booked in for Tuesday.

I hope the car lasts long enough for that investment to be worthwhile.

The car is now a non starter on cold mornings unless I roll it down a hill and jump it off. Starts with trouble when it's been on a longish run for the rest of the day.

Christmas is now cancelled, I need the car for work so I can't put it off.

scaredofdebt

forgotmyname wrote: »

What if you pulled out accelerating hard then the car behind thinks thats a good idea and follows. Then as you reach the NSL your car loses power and starts to slow. With the car behind standing on his brakes wondering why your slowing rapidly with no brake lights.

I'm not going to drive like that with the current problems, I've been extremely careful and the issue hasn't happened when there's been anyone close behind me, but thanks for the tip.

forgotmyname

Bump starting can cause the timing chain to jump..

Dont do it.. If the battery is low or needs a boost get a jump/ booster pack.