what thickness solid wood worktop

drummer_666

I'm getting a beech solid wood worktop

Is there any drawbacks to getting a 27mm rather than 40mm thickness?

There is plenty of room above my oven for the hob even with the 27mm worktop.

The worktops will be a 3m and a 4 meter straight run, with units and appliances sat under them, so I wouldn't imagine they would flex

I will need to round off one end and make cut outs for hob and butler sink, on one hand I think the 27mm would be easier to cut although I guess it is more fragile?

Thank you

Melaniep101

IMHO the thicker worktops look better - we went for the 40mm when we had oak worktops put in.

rob768

Firstly - this really depends on the Worktop.

Beech is the cheapest and softest worktop generally available, so I would recommend 40mm.

HOWEVER - this would have to be a decent comb-jointed slow dried timber with 40mm Staves.

Do not buy anything made from 20mm staves, or anything that is not Comb-jointed.

The main thing, especially if you are fitting yourself is the quality of oil you use, and the way you finish it, you will need at least 3-5 coats of a good finishing oil, on top AND underneath the worktop, barrier paper over any appliances, (DW/WM) and use proper fixings, not just wood screws.

Any more info PM me!

leveller2911

rob768 wrote: »

Firstly - this really depends on the Worktop.

Beech is the cheapest and softest worktop generally available, so I would recommend 40mm.

HOWEVER - this would have to be a decent comb-jointed slow dried timber with 40mm Staves.

Do not buy anything made from 20mm staves, or anything that is not Comb-jointed.




Actually its one of the hardest (density)worktops its equel to European Oak and harder than Iroko,Sapele,Ash and marginally softer than Wenge(which can vary by up to 20%).

People can have worktops made to order from their local small Joinery workshops generally competative with online shops and they would use single length wide boards tongue and grooved or loose tongued together.The only reason people make worktops from short ,narrow staves is because they use cheap offcuts of timber ,no other reason.

drummer_666

rob768 wrote: »

HOWEVER - this would have to be a decent comb-jointed slow dried timber with 40mm Staves.

Do not buy anything made from 20mm staves, or anything that is not Comb-jointed.

hey the one i'm buying is 40mm staves and yup i'll be oiling them lots before installing and then prob again after 3 months and then again after another 6 months

i'm not sure weather to go for 27mm or 40mm though. we will be making the cutouts for belfast sink, tap, hob ourselves and cutting a curve into the end

i've been told it's best to turn the worktop upside down to do the cuts.

is there much difference between the 27 and 40mm (apart from looks wise). I've heard that 40mm would be harder to cut (think we just have a jigsaw and circular saw)

i don't think local can compete. I know trade places can't compete, I can get 4m x 620mm x 40mm for £135 and a 3m for £95 with £40 delivery (27mm £60 less)

southcoastrgi

worktops are best fitted by a professional with proper masons joints & the proper tools

Steve_the_fitter

imo i dont think 27mm a fit for kitchens especially with a butler sink.

drummer_666

i'm leaning in favor of the 40mm too

no joints so easy there

my dad's fitted worktops b4, just not for me before so I like to do my research first lol

bitemebankers

drummer_666 wrote: »

is there much difference between the 27 and 40mm (apart from looks wise). I've heard that 40mm would be harder to cut (think we just have a jigsaw and circular saw)

I wouldn't recommend trying to cut either with a jigsaw. A powerful circular saw might just manage it but ideally you should be using a router and jig so you get nice, square edges and joints.

Norma_Desmond

We've got 40mm walnut worktops - luckily a mate of ours is a joiner and he cut and finished them for us; even he said how hard they were.

keystone

Agree with a number of posters above:

1. 27mm is totally unsuitable for a kitchen worktop.

2. You'll never get the cutout right for the sink using a jigsaw. You need to use a router. Either that or there will be one piece of ruined worktop!

3. You need to ensure you get as much oil as possible into the open grained ends and the whole thing needs doing weekly for the first few weeks. Then you can start stretching it to monthly and beyond.

4. The worktop must not be firmly secured to the carcasses which need to be spot on level. Worktop must be allowed to move.

Cheers