what thickness solid wood worktop

premkit

as above with the thickness, also use barrier paper above all appliances that generate heat. oil oil oil. fitted a 27mm months ago, went back to change a handle. the tin of oil was still in the exact same place when i left it. now the top compleatly dried out and warped.

drummer_666

yup def decided on the 40mm

I'm also putting moisture paper above washing machine and dishwasher

I'm planning on oiling with Danish oil about 5 times, thanks for the advice about oiling the open ends weekly for the first few weeks

would i need a router for the hob and tap hole cut out? I guess not for the tap?

what tool would you suggest for curving the radius end?

Steve_the_fitter

you need a 38mm drill bit for the tap hole
hob doesnt need to be routered but it doesnt hurt. i use a plunge saw which is very much the same quality cut as a router. A jigsaw would be fine for this cutout though. Make sure you curve the corner of the hob cut out. It keeps the worktop nice and strong
For the curving you need a router and jig. Weather thats a home made jig out of ply or one you buy is upto you.
Unless your very confident doing it Id get a pro in for your worktops. Curved ends, butler sink cut outs and drainer grooves etc are all easy when you know how and have the right tools but if you havent got the right tools you will never get it looking like it could

drummer_666

thank you steve

my builders going to lend me his tools or said he could do it for me if i need but says it's better for me to do it really coz I'll be ok for next time, but he will supervise :j

altho saying that I think I'll get the worktop company to do the butler sink cutout for me

can I just ask, why is a jigsaw ok for a hob cut out and not for the butler sink, is it because the hob sits on top of the hole so the hole isn't seen and the butler sink sits below the worktop, so the cuts need to be perfect there? or is it a different reason

southcoastrgi

i think you have just answered the question that a few of us have been thinking with regard to your "builder"

NO TRADES MAN/WOMAN will lend their tools (especially expensive power tools & very expensive router bits) to someone that doesn't know how to use them, we rely on our tools to earn a living & don't lend them out.

unless of course he is going to charge you a fortune to re-do it after you have ballsed it up

drummer_666

Not really sure what you mean by that, but he designs and fits kitchens as well as doing bathrooms and the general builder stuff (as do most people that I had around quoting) and I've seen his work and it's all to a very high standard

Letting me use his tools for a few mins, whilst supervised with the more expensive ones isn't much of a risk? besides i'm still inclined to let my dad do the curved end, and hob & tap cut outs are pretty straight forward

bitemebankers

Steve_the_fitter wrote: »

Unless your very confident doing it Id get a pro in for your worktops. Curved ends, butler sink cut outs and drainer grooves etc are all easy when you know how and have the right tools but if you havent got the right tools you will never get it looking like it could

Wise words.

Steve_the_fitter

got it in 1:T

drummer_666 wrote: »

thank you steve


can I just ask, why is a jigsaw ok for a hob cut out and not for the butler sink, is it because the hob sits on top of the hole so the hole isn't seen and the butler sink sits below the worktop, so the cuts need to be perfect there? or is it a different reason

keystone

drummer_666 wrote: »

Letting me use his tools for a few mins, whilst supervised with the more expensive ones isn't much of a risk?

Of course it is a risk. Its a risk to his tools and its a risk to your worktop. What happens if you cut yourself on his tools? Anyway if he designs and builds kitchens why haven't you asked him to do the worktop for you? He seems to do an awful lot for free for you.

besides i'm still inclined to let my dad do the curved end, and hob & tap cut outs are pretty straight forward

Well why not but from what you've said previously then it doesn't sound as though he has the correct tools. Solid timber worktop is a completely different skill league from laminate anyway.

You really should follow Steve's advice.

Cheers